tried4x2signN

post #27?

And the studs are pressed in. You can beat them out. BUT DO YOUR BEST NOT TO BOOGER ANYTHING.

4runnerbear

tried4x2, I read post 27 before posting my reply. however there was a lot of car lingo I didn't understand haha. what is a tripod? and is this the easiest solution for me right now? thanks for ur thoughts

tried4x2signN

1st I need to know how yer doing it...

Is it jacked up, and where you can rotate your tire?

And do you have ADD? Automatic Diff Disconnect?

Can you get the tripod joint back over the studs and start over?

And in your vary last pic, do you see a cluster of 3 things indented in the grease cap?

Tri-pod

4runnerbear

thanks for teaching me about the tripod haha makes sense.

I've tried several methods right now. I jacked it up. Put it back down on the ground. and rolled the driver's side wheel onto a ramp to get it to compress. I've found that driving it up a ramp was the best at compressing the suspension enough to give the half shafts enough space to pop out. Through my other experience, I realized you don't need to take the wheels off to do this removal/install.

As for whether I can rotate my tire or not, I don't think that matters because I can rotate the half shafts around since they are "free" and not "locked".

As for an ADD, if this is aftermarket then no. I have a manual transmission with manual locking hubs if that helps in that category.

I can't get my tripod back to the original place right now. I don't know how I did it, but I've managed to get it stuck in that position. If I could get it back onto the studs, I would just put everything back together and take it to a shop at this point. So that is why I'm so desperate right now to find a solution for this. I can't even drive it to a shop at this point.

Another question, I realized that the axles I bought don't come with this "tri-pod" on there. It's just flat and smooth on the contact surface. Should I be popping this "tri-pod" cap or whatever it is onto my new axles? If so, looks like I'm going to need redo the passenger side again....

Also, how difficult is it to beat out these studs? Are we talking about something I can do with persistence and a small hammer? or are we talking about some hard pounding wacks with a big mallet/sledge?

Any thoughts? help... hahah

MudHippy

Leave the cap on if you can, pretty messy if you don't. Could lose some grease too. Then you'd need to put more in...but no need to cross that bridge.

Knocking the studs out ain't too tough. I used a med. size ball-peen hammer. But whatever you got should work. Try and be careful of the threads. But if you mess a couple threads up then run a thread-cutter die over them and they'll probably be fine. And you don't have to punch them all out, just the ones that are in the way. Getting them back in is just the same in reverse. A bit tougher though with the stub shaft still in the axle. You can whack it out with a hammer too, or pry it out with a prybar, then replace the studs with the thing on a bench or clamped in a vise to hold it steady. Careful to not damage the seal for it getting it in and out though. Also, some gear oil is gonna run out when the stub shaft is removed. So watch out for that, and remember to refill the diff when your through. Or if you want to try with the stub shaft still on the truck, you can get the studs lined up and try pulling them back into place with the nut. From what I remember I couldn't get that to work too well when I tried, for whatever reason. But maybe I just didn't try hard enough.

EDIT:

Wait...before you do that try compressing the suspension.

Compress the suspension, yeah, that's the ticket. I forgot about that. See this old thread below.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-axles-119282/

Use that cut-out area on the stub shaft to your advantage. I believe that's why it's there.

4runnerbear

Thanks mudhippy. I actually compressed the suspension already which is how I got it in this predicament in the first place. Reading the link you sent and it seems to have some good suggestions. I have a feeling removing my ball joints might be my next route but this seems a bit out of my competency. Matter of fact, cv joints appear to be out of my competency as well.

I drove up the drive way with the cv joint stuck in this position and it seemed to stay in place with no negative effects. I guess the free hub + open diff makes this possible. I think I'll be driving to the mechanics shop tomorrow to have them figure this out.

Thanks all.

betelnut

You can also try dropping the diff. It's 3 bolts, and only a minor PITA compared to what you're doing now. That'll give you an extra half inch, which is what it took me to get my half-shaft out.

MudHippy

Then I guess you can still drive it to the mechanic and have him try. But, it's possible you might mess something up doing that too though. If the suspension gets to moving up and down too much, it may pop that cap off, so keep an hear out for that on the way. Then again...it might compress the suspension enough to let the sucker fall free. If so, then that'll make his job way easier, but your time/gas money will have been completely wasted. Or it could spell disaster by banging some of the studs out or wrecking their threads. Or minimally, making a big greasy mess for him to clean up should the cap should come off on the way. Worse yet, the studs might press into and/or damage the cap to the point that it's no longer useable. That would be new cv half-shaft time...BAD NEWS. Things to consider...so maybe a house-call would be better...if possible.

Whoa! New wabbit smilies! I gotta try them out!:wabbit2::wabbit:

And a Jessica! Lysmachia must be over-joyed at that!:jessica:

BTW, betelnut's idea aint half-bad either. But I've done that a bunch too, for other reasons though. Hell...another way would be to unbolt the lower control arm from the frame. But then you'd have to get it bolted back on in exactly the same position, or you'll screw your alignment up. I do my own wheel alignment. So, again, that sounds simple to me because I can handle that.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

ahahha, nevermind.....

AmirK

I did this job just now, finally put everything together, and feels great in 2wd, but when I put it in 4wd (on concrete, slowly, while turning) it feels a little jerky, and one tire or the other seems like its slipping traction just the tiniest bit.
Honestly I JUST got the truck 2 weeks ago, and haven't ever driven it in 4wd, maybe that's just how 4wd is? I'm pretty nervous that I may have dropped the tripod bearing assembly over the inboard axle splines one spline off when I reassembled it with the new cv boot on, even though I marked them and was very confident I lined them up right.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

It is suppose to be "jerky." It is simply because there is no spot for the tire to slip ie. dirt, snow, sand.. I bet if you did what you are thinking you did, there would be lots of binding/popping, as opposed to simple slippage. I am terrible at explaining things but just no that when H4 is engaged and you have absolute traction, a small amount of binding is expected.

AmirK

yeah, I just realized how stupid I mustve sounded. I'm used to AWD haha so I figured 4wd would feel the same. wrong!

AmirK

also, just a heads up for everyone here who may have a problem with this. I had all of these problems for 3 days straight, and this was MY solution, I bet it will be yours too.
- I lifted the wheel, had a friend in the drivers seat to push the brakes for when I removed the diff. flange nuts (using a breaker bar).
- removed the shock, the lower ball joint 4 bolts, and loosened the sway bar brackets to the frame, and removed the end link bolt under the bottom side of the control arm. It was REALLY important to get the endlinks up, and out of the way of the control arms.
-then put the wheel BACK on the ground.
-get the tulip joint off of the bolts and out of the way (although it's not COMPLETELY out yet).
-jack the wheel back up, remove the wheel, had my buddy push the control arm down as far as possible while pulling the brake rotor back away from the car, as I was underneath FINALLY getting enough room to get the axle out, off the bolts, down through the control arm space, and OUT.
It was a pain, but honestly once you do it on one side, you get the order of operations down and the other side aint bad. took about 3 hours once I knew what I was doing. I promise you, you do not need to pound out your studs. That's a pain to do too... I tried haha.
Please message me if you need help, I just did it and its all fresh in my head, I am totally willing to help anyone who needs it.