Basics, '91 T4R 3.4 swapped, runs strong. Now the issues. My bearing grumble, I need new shocks on all 4 corners, probably new calipers/brakes, repack the bearings. In doing the swap, I accidentally removed the switch from the t-case that tells the ECU to go to 4WD (ECU is out of an auto w/electronic controlled trans. and push button 4WD). And I managed to pull the wires from the actuator in the front diff. I have tried to jump the right wires with a switch, but no dice. I am planning on replacing the ECU in a month or two, my question comes down to...

Do I spend the money on repairing the IFS and keep driving to practice hitting the right lines and all, or do I save and dump it all into a SAS?

I have limited off road experience, but most of that has been due to a knocking 3.0 and time in school. I do plan on a SAS, but was hoping to be a better driver at the time I do it, and this truck be a weekend warrior vehicle.

Opinions welcomed, and ideas on how to go about it.

 

man do the swap it is better all around yeah ifs rides better and all but you will be happier if you just swap it out and then you wont look back and tell youreself
why did i spend the money on fixing that ifs when i could of had this solid axel sooner and been happier on the trail and pulled out less and gone further

 

SAS can ride better depending on how you set it up. if you go with a coil spring set up, it'll ride just fine.

 

Stock for stock, a solid axle isn't that much of an advantage over IFS. Sure, it flexes more, but strength wise they're about the same. Not to mention that the IFS has more ground clearance with identical tires...

I have an '85 solid axle sitting here at my house. For what I do, it's way overkill. I've been considering hacking it up and making an 8" IFS front diff out of it. Decisions, decisions.

I think I've decided to stay IFS, simply because the truck is my wintertime DD and I don't want to run all over in a SFA pickup. Going coils on a SFA pickup isn't cheap at all. I'm not knocking it- if I got off the beaten path more often, I'd swap the SFA in and call it done with some Longfields. But for now, IFS is where my heart lies.

 

Depends on what kind of off roading you like and/or do more. I can't compare the 2 very much, I never drove my '83 before I locked it, and I haven't wheeled my Runner since I've locked it. My Runner has a couple inches lift via bj spacers and OME coils, the '83 is still stock height, and the Runner actually outflexes the '83 by just a little bit.

 

How long do your CV's last? Do you run manual hubs or the ADD system?

 

CV joints ( with manual hubs ) can "last" and be functional up to 300k miles. maybe even further. Space-junks 4Runner had original CV joints and im at 154k with original CVs

 

original cv's here 172,000+ miles on them, boots are busted, but they still work. Don't know how long those boots have been busted. (medium tears in the "bellows") But this is in the northeast rust and salt belt and I also run in alot of mud. I have had the truck for about 2 years. Was down for about 3 months for an engine rebuild.

 

I've put 3 in in the 3-4 years I've had the truck. That's part of the reason I was asking about them. Pass. side was done shortly after I got it by a shop, I did the driver side about a year later, and then the pass. side again this winter. Also, what are some common maintenance issues with a SAS?

 

Repairing your IFS maybe $1k

SAS and stuff $3k+

:wabbit2:

 

Bryan -

have you ever done a coil/shock SAS? if so, how's the ride and flex?

 

Mine are still original, with 190ish K miles on them. Manual locking hubs. I just make sure not to go WOT at full lock.

 

the reason i sad sas is i had to replace both my cv axels once a year and my 3rd twice in 5 years and i had manual locking hubs after the first set of cv axels went on good advice that it would make them last longer and my solid axel just put in some longfields and make sure the bearings where greased and the drive line angle was good and i wheeld the hell out of it and no problems now i will tell you that i hunt alot and when it wasnt taking me to and from hunting deep in the woods of louisiana it went to mudfest and i drove it to work so no i was not easy on it ever.

 

If you planned on doing a solid axle swap relatively soon anyways I wouldnt't bother fixing your IFS. But ig you are going to need 4x4 for DD'ing the truck or whatever then the easier solution would be to stick with the IFS awhile longer.

An SAS doesnt have to cost 3k+ I did mine for just over $1000 all said and done. Iv been driving and wheeling it for over a year now.

 

I'm going to beet my IFS till it breaks then do the SAS. However my truck is a trail only rig at this point.

Holy crap is that if some one else does all the work and supplys all the material?

 

$1199 for the TG IFS eliminator. $325 for the TG matching rear springs, $158 for matching rear shocks. $37 for rear bump stop extensions. ($20 if you don't need the stops).

$1719 total. plus your shipping cost. Mine would be $114. = $1833

Then you still need a front axle, front driveshaft. Your looking at a minimum of a 4" lift. So 33-35" tires and then regearing. Not to mention labor if you don't know how to weld.

Now this is only my research and may have forgotten a few things. Maybe Wabbit can clarify anything I missed.

 

Ya but Toyota rears up front are about $50, F150 rears for the back end are also about $50, there are Bilsteins all the time for $50 each used, a front axle is about $200 and then there are lots of costs that go with the swap. Shackles, Ubolts, brakes, etc. Things that are always being sold on various forums.

I made the mistake of fixing my front IFS after destroying it while trying to get unstuck. I had no choice but to have to pull the truck sideways and I ended up bending and breaking almost everything under there. The relay rod and a Pro-Comp knuckle both snapped like a twig. Certainly not their fault and was 100% mine due to the position it was in.

For what I paid to replace everything I could have done a fairly nice SAS setup but at that time I didn't know enough to take it on.

Personally for me, its like my 3.4 swap. I would never put money into rebuilding a 3.0 when a 3.4 swap is not that hard and the benefits FAR outweigh the negatives...........I havent found one yet though

I would begin gathering parts for a SAS and drive your IFS till it falls off. At least then you wont have to cut it off. Of course I don't really know your needs for wheeling so take with a grain of salt.

 

if you find a good set of toyota rear springs that are not flat and riding on the overloads for $50 let me know. Because I will sell my rears off my 87 when I put my lift springs in for $50 plus shipping if that's the case.

 

You gonna buy a welder and learn how to fab and weld at the same time on your rig?

Or pay a guy $60-$125 PER HOUR to do it?

 

heh I'm not doing it, no plans to really, just throwing parts prices out there for em. I did mention paying for labor if he didn't know how to weld.