Removing The 22RE
Oct 7, 2006 | 07:15 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Monroe
Removing The 22RE
I am going to remove the 22RE out of my 86 4Runner. What should I expect and look for. Also whats the easiest way to go about doing this. I already has teh head and intake/throttle body off.
Oct 7, 2006 | 08:28 AM
#2
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
You taking the transmission as well? Truck stock or SAS
Not pulling the trans and stock here is what you need to do because you can't lift straight up.
Pull the access plate out of the passengerside fender for better access.
Pull the front plate.
Pull the cross member that the front diff bolts to.
LOOSEN THE CRANK BOLT NOW IF YOU WILL BE PULLING THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR OFF. Unless you have a good impact you will have trouble getting that loose once its out.
Loosen the rear mounts of the front diff so that it hangs down so as to give you oil pan clearance so you can move the motor forward off the transmission.
A/C hung off the fender
Pull radiator and put a piece of ply in to protect the A/C condenser in case the motor swings.
Pull the fan off.
Pull passenger side kick panel if you haven't already done so and pull the harness back through the fire wall. Its a LOT easier to mess with the plenum and harness on the engine stand.
Unplug the Alternator and associated wiring.
Two heater hoses by fire wall on driverside
With that access panel off in the ender you will see where its easiest to pull the fuel lines loose.
Battery cables
Unplug the transmission electrical if harness still on motor.
Pull liens off canister if still attached.
Exhaust at the junction the manifold and down pipe meet.
You already have the throttle cable off since the plenum is off.
If the sway is off hang an ratchet strap between the frame rails to support the bell housing. If the Sway is still in it will support it.
Remove the bolts around the bell housing.
Put a jack under the bell housing.
The trick is you need to lift it a couple inches and you need to keep the transmission in line with the engine. As long as they are in line it will slide right off. If they are not in line it will be a fight. Remember that when you reinstall.
Let the air out of the tires. Most hoists cant lift high enough to clear the coresuport.
If the transmission is coming out as well and a 5 speed pull it first:
Take the the bezel and shifter boots off. Take the shifters out. Stick your engine hoist through the passenger side door. Use a Tree saver and wrap it around the transmission at the shifter location (not the case at transmission). Thats the balance point with the factory cross member still attached. Need to level enough room to move the whole assembly back about 6 inches to clear the clutch.
Remove sway bar and bell housing bolts
pull slave cylinder
unplug the harness
The trick is to be able to support the transmission and case without the hoist hitting the windshield. You have to have enough slack to lower it. If you have a moving dolly slide it up under the mess once you wiggle the transmission off the motor. Lower it and roll it out on the dolly.
If you remove the transmission first you probably won't need to drop the diff to get the motor out.
Not pulling the trans and stock here is what you need to do because you can't lift straight up.
Pull the access plate out of the passengerside fender for better access.
Pull the front plate.
Pull the cross member that the front diff bolts to.
LOOSEN THE CRANK BOLT NOW IF YOU WILL BE PULLING THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR OFF. Unless you have a good impact you will have trouble getting that loose once its out.
Loosen the rear mounts of the front diff so that it hangs down so as to give you oil pan clearance so you can move the motor forward off the transmission.
A/C hung off the fender
Pull radiator and put a piece of ply in to protect the A/C condenser in case the motor swings.
Pull the fan off.
Pull passenger side kick panel if you haven't already done so and pull the harness back through the fire wall. Its a LOT easier to mess with the plenum and harness on the engine stand.
Unplug the Alternator and associated wiring.
Two heater hoses by fire wall on driverside
With that access panel off in the ender you will see where its easiest to pull the fuel lines loose.
Battery cables
Unplug the transmission electrical if harness still on motor.
Pull liens off canister if still attached.
Exhaust at the junction the manifold and down pipe meet.
You already have the throttle cable off since the plenum is off.
If the sway is off hang an ratchet strap between the frame rails to support the bell housing. If the Sway is still in it will support it.
Remove the bolts around the bell housing.
Put a jack under the bell housing.
The trick is you need to lift it a couple inches and you need to keep the transmission in line with the engine. As long as they are in line it will slide right off. If they are not in line it will be a fight. Remember that when you reinstall.
Let the air out of the tires. Most hoists cant lift high enough to clear the coresuport.
If the transmission is coming out as well and a 5 speed pull it first:
Take the the bezel and shifter boots off. Take the shifters out. Stick your engine hoist through the passenger side door. Use a Tree saver and wrap it around the transmission at the shifter location (not the case at transmission). Thats the balance point with the factory cross member still attached. Need to level enough room to move the whole assembly back about 6 inches to clear the clutch.
Remove sway bar and bell housing bolts
pull slave cylinder
unplug the harness
The trick is to be able to support the transmission and case without the hoist hitting the windshield. You have to have enough slack to lower it. If you have a moving dolly slide it up under the mess once you wiggle the transmission off the motor. Lower it and roll it out on the dolly.
If you remove the transmission first you probably won't need to drop the diff to get the motor out.
Last edited by GrimReaper; Oct 7, 2006 at 08:34 AM.
Oct 7, 2006 | 05:46 PM
#5
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Athens, GA
i just pulled mine for a minor overhaul and i had already had the head and oall the acc. off. It was a piece of cake. you can get to everything fairly easily with it all off. Mine is stock ifs but its a 5speed. 
Oct 9, 2006 | 04:14 PM
#6
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
pulled mine out in about 2 days. by my self, never did it before.. but stillhaving a problem getting it back in. i am thinking that the torque converter might not be in all the way. i can't get the bell housing to mate up with the block. any suggestions?
Trending Topics
Oct 11, 2006 | 02:24 PM
#8
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 2
From: austin, tx
In my part of the world, $600-$800 depending on how much machine work you need.
See ted (engnbldr) for a great rebuild "kit" at a good price.
You guys typically pull it out with the wiring harness attached?
See ted (engnbldr) for a great rebuild "kit" at a good price.
You guys typically pull it out with the wiring harness attached?
Oct 13, 2006 | 10:19 AM
#9
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Take this
than Talk to ted at Engine Builder and do this
Complete rebuild into it for around $600 Canadian
and were talking, Pistions, rings, bearing, Water pump, oil pump, Timming chain cover, Timing chain and Steel guide, head bolts and other miss stuff
than Talk to ted at Engine Builder and do this
Complete rebuild into it for around $600 Canadian
and were talking, Pistions, rings, bearing, Water pump, oil pump, Timming chain cover, Timing chain and Steel guide, head bolts and other miss stuff
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GreatLakesGuy
The Classifieds GraveYard
8
Sep 4, 2015 09:27 AM
