Think for myself

Alright. My curiosity got the best of me and I was fiddling around with the engine. I was reaching for something, and somehow busted the two wirs that go up to a connector next to my reed valve. Now these wires are the same color, and I do not know which is which. Any tips on fixing it, and will this affect the performance of the reed valve? I would have assumed it was mechanical and not electronic.

1992 4runner with the V6.

shftatsix

The only reed valves i've heard of are on 2stroke dirt bikes

Think for myself

Hmmm. I will check my manual again. It is on the passenger side, above the head, and says AS Reed Valve on top.

Think for myself

Alright, I am an idiot. The wires went to my EGR. Wired it back up, reset the error code, and that problem was solved.

Amazing how much better I can read diagrams with glasses on.

MudHippy

Well...looks like you didn't need any help after all. Way to "think for yourself"......sorry I couldn't help it.

For the record, our V6 trucks have a PAIR.

That's short for...

Pusled
Air
Injection
Reed Valve

Basically, the same as a "smog" pump. Blows clean air into the exhaust manifold to raise exhaust temps aiding the post-combustion burning of HC's , thus lowering the emissions of such.

toyota4x4907

There is an AS Reed Valve. Also called the PAIR Reed Valve, Air Injection Reed Valve.

toyota4x4907

so does the 22re

buckz6319

sorry I'm not trying to high jack here...I just wanted to know what that pair reed valve does....I have narrowed down a noise with engine running to that thing.....the sound is loud and I can here that sound in the tube that goes to the triangle box right beside the VAFM
thanks for any info
Dwayne

abecedarian

The PAIR valve (Pulse Air Injection Reaction) operates like reed valves in a 2 stroke engine and allows fresh air to flow from the intake to the exhaust while preventing any backflow of exhaust into the intake. This is accomplished by using the venturi effect to suck fresh air into the exhaust manifold (the reason the exhaust ports are pear shaped). A side benefit of using that valve, they are able to get air into the exhaust to help reduce emissions without the horsepower stealing 'smog pump' and complex diverter valve plumbing they used to use.

toyota4x4907

What Abe said

The air is injected into the exhaust to aid the cat in oxidation of Hydrocarbons and CO ( CO or CO2?)

buckz6319

thanks guys...I do understand now what that pair & reed valve does...I have been reading lots of threads on the topic

scope103

... and the reason for the noise is that the four screws which hold the simple gadget together loosen, so that the vibrating reed shakes the whole thing. Solution: tighten 'em up. The are really hard to get to, so you may need a really short stubby Phillips.

Lost a screw? Probably. I believe they are 6mm. Consider getting hex head replacements so you can use a ball-head hex-head wrench (remember, they are hard to get at).

abecedarian

buckz6319:
Besides the screws becoming loose (though my 190K plus 22re truck and 240K plus 22re 4Runner have not experienced that issue ... that I'm aware of), another reason for noise from the valve is purely mechanical and natural: the reed(*) open when the exhaust sucks air in then snap closed when there is any reversionary flow from backpressure (exhaust tries to go up the pipe so the reed slaps shut). A rapidly opening and closing valve makes noise, and Toyota was aware of it, hence the resonator chamber on the 22re (located below the throttle body and behind the radiator) and 3VZE (located near the air filter).

Footnote: * I say there may be more than one reed in the valve because on some carbureted vehicles there are two separate pipes that run back from the exhaust manifold to the PAIR valve and each has a reed and they tend to be noisy compared to the others but also have to deal with a wider range of O2 flow to the converter to deal with the less-precisely controlled mixtures the carburetor gives.

buckz6319

Thanks for the good posting...and the screws I have checked out and all are tight and none missing.I did discover through reading some more post on the reed & pear.I had a vacuum line going from the vsv(I think it's called?, blue in color) with a orange check valve going to the plenum. and if I'm correct and the poster was correct it should go to the pear.


I did move it to the pear(the line with the check valve).....and took the one that was on the pear and moved it to where the other vacuum hose connected.I'm thinking they were just crossed up some how

buckz6319

update.....(please bear with me it's a rather long post and I'm tired)..

I went to two more automotive shops(total of 9 so far) to try again to get to the bottom of my vibration,BUT this time I think I got a real answer not just "keep driving it"

so I went to the first shop that had a diagnostic machine that could check the stored trouble codes that keep returning even after I have cleared them twice.The owner wanted to know if the CEL is on or has it been on to alert me to a problem.I answered "No" and that I was doing a diagnostic test trying to find anything that could be contributing to my vibration, and found the codes stored, and was concerned about them also (#14 )

The shop owner wanted to drive the 4runner before he puts it on the machine because of what i mentioned about the vibration.The owner started the 4runner and immediately noticed the vibrations (I didn't let him know where I feel the vibrations from, because I wanted to know if he noticed what I have been feeling)...so put it in gear and off we go about 10 miles round trip came back to his shop and pulled into the garage. He opened the hood and started to search for what maybe causing the vibrations.He asked me a lot of questions about what I have done to try and remedy the vibration and I told him all the parts I have replaced and all the hours of testing to try and eliminate the issue(at this time he's not even talking about the stored codes) and all the other repair shops I have been to for this issue and had no luck with a answer yet.

Well we talk for a while and continue to try and diagnosis the vibration issue for about 30 min with engine running.The owner said that "sense you have no CEL on that he wouldn't waste my money putting it on the machine at this time because I can't really hear any abnormal engine issues.The engine runs strong and sounds good BUT you have a vibration in the bumper when I leaned up against it to move the throttle, to raise the rpms up enough to get to a spot in the vibration that is more pronounce and bingo between 3,000-4,000 range she was really vibrating).

The owner said that he can rule out the engine and transmission at this point but is concerned with maybe the T.C. OR the Harmonic balancer but really couldn't pinpoint which it is.He then said for me to go see a friend of his that has been working on autos for over 50 years and he builds racing engines and if any one can pinpoint this vibration it would be him.

So off I go over to this other mechanic(Gosh I'm sure getting tired of this )....Well I make it over to this other guys shop and sure enough this guys shop was a head and block rebuilding shop, not much to look at, but boy did they have a lot of stuff in their and I met the owner he was about 70 and was working on a motor and stopped to help me

I told him that his friend sent me over to see if you can find the location of my vibration.The guy said sure I'll try let's go listen to it.Well to make a longer story short this guys answer to this vibration I'm having, after asking me lots of questions also,and raising the rpms of the engine for a while and listening ect......was......maybe harmonic balancer ORExhaust resonating issue.....He said that in the old days the AMC's had a lot of vibration issues that were traced back to Exhaust Resonating issues and this vibration reminded him of those dam AMC He said my engine sounds really good and I told him my compression numbers and he said " really good compression for the miles, and that's a high dollar engine in their and before you go tearing into it, I would completely unbolt the exhaust manifolds from the heads and move them away as far as possible from the heads.Then start the engine and see if you got any more vibrations....and if you don't then you know where your problem is....and if you do still have a vibration then button up every thing check the harmonic balancer"..... "And there is no guarantee that either one is the culprit I'm just giving you my best guess"

Well out of all the mechanic shops I have visited, this is the first guy that has mentioned the Exhaust Resonating problem to me ever...

#1.) I would like to know if a Bad Exhaust Resonating is a possibility ??....and if so what can I do other than dropping the exhaust manifolds to check this out

#2.) if it's a harmonic balancer how can I tell if that is bad?....any way of checking it without removing it??
I would appreciate any advice on this matter
Thanks
Dwayne

abecedarian

know anyone with a vacuum gauge?

buckz6319

I have a vacuum gauge...I hope it still works....I should also mention, that the first mechanic said if I wanted to eliminate the t.c. as a possible cause then remove the bolts (provided you don't have studs) and push back on the t.c.to get it away from the flywheel.Then start the engine and separate the two and if problem goes away then you have found your problem

Either way....T.C., Harmonic Balancer or Exhaust Resonating system....it's something to go on, but It's just me working on this thing so I may or may not be able to check them all out over weekend but I'll do something