RedRunnerTC's rear axle swap after accident (with his 93 4Runner Ron)
Funny I only ended up drinking one!
Jan 16, 2010 | 10:55 AM
#22
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Gosh, I just finished reading this whole thing, that sucks. I can't believe that was all from someone hitting you? Best of luck and patience while setting up that rear end.
You can rough check the axle shaft itself like you would a pool stick at a bar, just have a few beers first and roll that thing!! But seriously, a straightline or a lathe...
You can rough check the axle shaft itself like you would a pool stick at a bar, just have a few beers first and roll that thing!! But seriously, a straightline or a lathe...
Jan 16, 2010 | 11:12 AM
#23
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From: Clear Lake City, TX
We have a friend who has a spare. The splines at the end of the shaft, while not visually too bad, if you feel them they are chewed up. We don't want to risk putting that back in the ARB locker. (Of which AxleIke is over here today heping us bench test the ARB to make sure it is still ok.)
Jan 20, 2010 | 03:42 PM
#24
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From: Clear Lake City, TX
It seems the 3rd member is ok.
So here are pics of that bent rear axle housing.
You can see where it bent right at the end of the trussing (and right before the coil holder) So the rear driver tire has an open toe which caused the seriously squirrelly driving even after we fixed the link.
So here are pics of that bent rear axle housing.
You can see where it bent right at the end of the trussing (and right before the coil holder) So the rear driver tire has an open toe which caused the seriously squirrelly driving even after we fixed the link.
Jan 25, 2010 | 11:20 AM
#27
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From: Clear Lake City, TX
Axle with the link tabs welded on
Axle is clocked back 17 degrees here (So the top mounts are straight)
What bonehead puts the truss on and forgets to put the diff breather in? (Troy) Took me 2.5 hours to get the darned thing in there. It is directly below where I am pointing with .5 inch to spare to manuever it in.
Axle is clocked back 17 degrees here (So the top mounts are straight)
What bonehead puts the truss on and forgets to put the diff breather in? (Troy) Took me 2.5 hours to get the darned thing in there. It is directly below where I am pointing with .5 inch to spare to manuever it in.
Last edited by Lysmachia; Mar 16, 2010 at 01:19 PM.
Sorry but that there is funny!!! 
Jan 25, 2010 | 11:51 AM
#29
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From: Clear Lake City, TX
About 3 hours of hell. And my hand is still all cramped up. Oh and the Truss will be air-tight (sealed up) so we decided not to do an extended breather.
Last edited by Lysmachia; Jan 25, 2010 at 11:53 AM.
Jan 25, 2010 | 12:00 PM
#31
looks like this project broke out some virgin jackstands
the extra clearance of those new T-G rear ends are looking tempting
trying to figure out out the truss being 'air tight' would negate the need to an extended breather
but am sleep deprived right now...
the extra clearance of those new T-G rear ends are looking tempting
trying to figure out out the truss being 'air tight' would negate the need to an extended breather
but am sleep deprived right now...
Jan 25, 2010 | 12:02 PM
#32
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From: Aurora, CO
Not sure if that would actually happen, but that's what it sounds like to me.
Jan 25, 2010 | 12:24 PM
#34
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From: Clear Lake City, TX
Same questions about the diff breather:
But if the breather burps a lot of oil, it might be better to have some form of rubber access...
Not really, Ike. The truss will just act as an expansion and contraction chamber. It will still help to equalize the pressure inside the diff by pressurizing the larger volume of the truss, netting probably very little overall pressure between the two. And it doesn't necessarily even need to be air tight (it will be tough to make it completely air tight anyway), just as long as its water tight.
Axle's looking great! Can I suggest cutting a hole in the truss, and fitting it with a rubber seal, as a means to inspect and remove the breather if necessary? I would personally just feel uncomfortable about completely sealing that off for good. It might help in the case that the breather is faulty or something and its blocked up or spitting oil...I don't know. Also it would probably make for the water tight but not quite air tight combo that would truly be ideal for the correct pressure.
Axle's looking great! Can I suggest cutting a hole in the truss, and fitting it with a rubber seal, as a means to inspect and remove the breather if necessary? I would personally just feel uncomfortable about completely sealing that off for good. It might help in the case that the breather is faulty or something and its blocked up or spitting oil...I don't know. Also it would probably make for the water tight but not quite air tight combo that would truly be ideal for the correct pressure.
If we need to we can cut back into the truss (Where we will be sealing it off) And we should get close to air tight as we will be pressurizing it with an air hose as best we can. (A little soapy water on the outside will tell us where the leaks are). I would rather know it is water tight than worry about a rubber seal.
Jan 31, 2010 | 01:26 PM
#35
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From: Clear Lake City, TX
Thanks all for coming over yesterday. It meant so much to both of us. And special thanks to Pete for bringing the Plasma Cutter... 
First the flex is gonna be sick. The axle jacked to within 6" of the body/frame
But here's today's issue. With the ball joint spacers, and all the measuring, the coils are too short and cockeyed!. We'd have to build 4" platforms too boot!
And I got in a lil' exercise for my cracked rib! MMMMM Fun!
First the flex is gonna be sick. The axle jacked to within 6" of the body/frame
But here's today's issue. With the ball joint spacers, and all the measuring, the coils are too short and cockeyed!. We'd have to build 4" platforms too boot!
And I got in a lil' exercise for my cracked rib! MMMMM Fun!
Mar 16, 2010 | 01:10 PM
#36
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From: Clear Lake City, TX
Ok update... after making a sealed truss, which had the diff breather inside, and then we vented the truss, we kept seeing gear oil leaks! WTFrank?
Turns out the diff breather location that Trail Gear put on their axle is bad. Oil just slings right through the breather and was filling up the truss. To top it off, the breather is directly below the lower link tower, so just putting an extended breather in won't work.
So this is where the diff breather is located (under the lower link mount)
And since it is right below the truss, we can't do an extended breather here... (and even if we did, the slinging is so harsh it would go all the way up the extended tube)
We had to plasma cut the truss and drain the oil. It was FULL and leaking!
So what to do now? Baffle the breather on the inside? Plug it up and drill a new hole? Ideas?
Turns out the diff breather location that Trail Gear put on their axle is bad. Oil just slings right through the breather and was filling up the truss. To top it off, the breather is directly below the lower link tower, so just putting an extended breather in won't work.
So this is where the diff breather is located (under the lower link mount)
And since it is right below the truss, we can't do an extended breather here... (and even if we did, the slinging is so harsh it would go all the way up the extended tube)
We had to plasma cut the truss and drain the oil. It was FULL and leaking!
So what to do now? Baffle the breather on the inside? Plug it up and drill a new hole? Ideas?
Last edited by Lysmachia; Mar 16, 2010 at 01:22 PM.
Mar 16, 2010 | 01:20 PM
#37
seems like the baffle might be the trick...that is wierd though because other than your breather being on the right side of the axle (based on your finger) the only difference is the breather being on the right side instead of the left side of the housing-at least mine is in the left....make any sense?
maybe the gear rotation has that big of throw...dunno still learning
edit: i like the big fill top instead of having to go thru the little tiny one, fill from top till the little one leaks, that would be nice
maybe the gear rotation has that big of throw...dunno still learning
edit: i like the big fill top instead of having to go thru the little tiny one, fill from top till the little one leaks, that would be nice
Last edited by dropzone; Mar 16, 2010 at 01:23 PM.
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