Lunnzz

I recently rebuilt my 22re and am having some issues still. Most of my issues from my other post have been fixed. One problem I am still having is it idles really high but I know I need a new throttle cable mine has a kink in it. But I've set the timing to 0*tdc like book says and it idles fine but when you give it gas it stumbles and wants to die. I tried rotating the distributer and of coures the idle increases and it seems more responsive but it is also idling at 2k which is too high and the idle adjustment is as low as it will go. What degree of timing does everybody run I know what the book says but what it says isn't working. I also was adjusting the valves just as the FSM says well I put the engine a 0*TDC set the valves as it shows rotated the engine one time to adjust the rest and one of the exhaust rocker arms was on a lobe of the cam now how am I supposed to adjust it that way? So I disregarded the FSM for a minute I did each valve one at a time rotating the engine and adjusting them when they were fully closed and they all are now nice and quite like they should be. I am open for suggestions Thanks..

PhiHalcyon

According to the information I have, you should be setting your timing at 5 degrees BTDC.

Here's a link to a web site I've found useful lately: http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html

Just click on ARRC logo and then select your year, make, and model. For tune-up specs, choose Specifications on the Topics page. For procedures on adjusting your timing, choose Repair Procedures on the Topics page, and then General Information and Mainenance. Ignition timing is under Routine Maintenance.

kyle_22r

timing is 5*BTDC jumpered -- it'll read about 12* when the diagnostic terminals aren't jumpered. if you set it to 5* without doing that, you'll retard the timing and make the engine doggy.

maxpower_hd

Take a closer look at the book and time it again. What I did after my install was let the motor idle until it was warmed up. Then I adjusted the distributor until it was at it's highest idle. Then backed it down to what sounded like a normal idle. Once I did that and it drove fairly well, I hit it with the light. I was right on the money. Like others have already said, the timing should be set at 5 degrees BTDC according to the manual, not 0. The valves should be set with the marks at 0. That may be where you are getting confused.

I would also recommend replacing the throttle cable to make sure you aren't trying to adjust something that can't be adjusted.

You should make sure you're timing is right on before you start adjsuting valves. Also, the valves should be adjusted when the vehicle is at normal operating temp. Once you have you're timing right you should have better luck with the valves.

Good luck.

Lunnzz

If I set the engine at 0* IDC I can set some of the valves but if I rotate it once there are some valves that are on a lobe of the cam and I can't adjust them that way. So if I set it at 12* BTDC how can I get the idle down? That is what I had it set at the very first time but it wants to idle at 2krpm and thats to high. I just went out and set it to 12* BTDC and it idles really high but I can slow it down by moving the part where the throttle cable hooks up. So I am going to get a new throttle cable main reason is it has a kink in it has had it since I got the truck and it is almost adjusted all the way out I think it could possibly not be letting the throttle close all the way when I let off the gas. When I get it to idle down first time I give it gas it's back to idling over 2krpm and won't go back down with out my help.

maxpower_hd

Luunzz,

I think I'm getting confused now. First you have to set your distibitor timing to 5 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) according to the manual, with the terminals jumped as previously stated, with a timing light and at normal operating temp. Once that is done, leave it alone.

Then you set the crank pulley to 0 degrees TDC "ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE" to begin adjusting the valves. This is done in two steps and when the motor is up to normal temp. The manual explains it more more detail. On the compression stroke you will adjust half of the valves then rotate the crank 360 degrees back to TDC. Then you will be able to adjust the other half of the valves. I don't know which manual you have but if you need me to, I can pull out the specific steps from mine.

These idle quite high when cold and then the idle comes down afer a couple of minutes. Let it run for a bit and see if that is the case. It was with mine. I went through the same thing about 5 weeks ago when I finished my rebuild.

I had to adjust my valves three times to get them perfect. It was pretty loud initially. So loud in fact that I thought it could be a bearing.

My cold idle seemed very high too bet it would come down after it got nice and warm. It sounds nasty until you get the valves just right. It sounded a lot better once everything else was fine tuned. Then I played with the idle a little because I didn't like how high the cold idle was but it still idles highi when cold. That is the nature of the beast.

Good luck.

Lunnzz

Sorry not trying to confuse anybody. I initially set the timing at 0*TDC before ever starting the engine I then jumped the terminals started the engine let it run for a bit turned off the engine pulled out jumper, started truck it would idle fine but when ever you gave it any gas it would stumble and want to die. I was getting a cel which came up as a VAM (MAF) So I got another one pulled EFI fuse swapped parts put fuse back in fired up truck and cel was gone but the truck was idling high and the timing was now at about what looked like 15*BTDC so acoording to the manual I adjusted the distributor and got it back to 5*BTDC. I totally understand and expect it to idle high when first starting it up but even after mine is good and warm the idle stays high and when I do get it down by way of the throttlebody the first time I give it gas it's back up to 2krpm. It seems that the butterfly is not closing all the way by itself. I'll take a picture of my kinked throttle cable that is soon to be replaced. I first thought the throttle cable being kinked was not allowing it to close all the way. Weither the cable is causing a problem it is getting replaced. As far as adjusting the valves I got the engine nice and warm shut it off rotated the crank to set it at 0*TDC adjusted half the valves according to the FSM rotated the crank one revolution and the #3 exhaust valve rocker arm was sitting on a cam lobe. So I know I adjusted them wrong but I adjusted each valve individually when it was under no load. But once I get it running and idling correctly I am going to once again adjust them according to the FSM.

maxpower_hd

I had the high idle issue too. I wanted to get through the timing and valves first. My mind doesn't like to focus on too many things at once and it sounded like there may be other issues to iron out 1st.

Once I had everything adjusted, Mine would do exactly what you are describing. I had to manually return it to normal idle. I sprayed the ÅÅÅÅe out of the spring and throttle mechanism at the throttle body with penetrating fluid. I then screwed a bolt into an empty spot on the throttle body behind the throttle mechanism and attached a spring from the bolt to the nipple on the throttle mechanism. I left it that way for a week or so and kept spraying it with WD-40. I have sinc eremoved the spring and everything is fine. It's been about 1300 miles since I've done it.

I think your cable may take care of it but if not try what I did. I think in my case, everything had been sitting for quite a while.

maxpower_hd

Just thinking..........you may want to try the spring thing just to confirm that it works so you can move on to better things while you're waiting on the throttle cable, like readjusting those valves.

Just a thought.

Good luck.

Yotarebuilder

could be your timing chain off one link...?????

TNRabbit

It looks like some of us are confusing 0* TIMING with adjusting the valves with the crank @ 0*....

You need to be clear about whether you are setting the ignition timing or the valve lash...

Lunnzz

Truck was fixed about 4 monthes ago I can't even remember what fixed it..