My rear window on my 94 runner will go down everytime, however it will not go back up using the key or the switch.

I took the tail gate apart and could see no signs of slpit wires i checked all the connections. and it still wont roll up.

I checked to make sure the rear wiper was in place and it still will only go down.

so i used a old car battery and hooked it up to the motor directly .. to see if the window motor was bad and the motor works and the window went right up.


what esl should i check.

i am out of thoughts. and need help please!

 

Behind the panel in the back is your control box with 4 relays in it. Search around to find the replacement ones and which one controls the action you want. They can go bad and might be wise to replace them all. You should be able to hear the relay click when powered if it works

 

when i turn the key to get the window to go back up i here a slight click from the rear panel on the driver side.

is that the click i am looking for ?

 

Yep. I had an issue where the key down wouldn't work but everything else did. I ended up running a new wire from the relay box to the key switch to get mine to work. I didn't see any breaks while looking over it so I figured just run the line after I tested it would make it work.

 

also, i noticed when i get the window to go down while touching the motor i feel power to the motor, but when i turn the key to get the window to go up i dont feel the motor n gague.

 

and the front switch on the to get the window does the same thing,... it will only roll the window down.....

 

But you get it to go up by jumping it? It sounds like you need to run a new like to the switch or maybe from the switch to the motor. Over time they break or corrode

 

I will take a look at the relay switch sometime tomorrow when i got some daylight...

 

thanks for the information. now i know were to start.. LOL ... i will get on it tomorrow. and let you know the outcome.

 

if you can solder, try re-soldering the backside of the relay board.
it could be a loose connection, it is 20 years old.
re-solder the wires as well as the relay connections.
it's cheap and fast.

 

Roger that... will try it... Phidelfino thanks

 

Could also be the wire controlling the close side has broken.

Also the safety switch that the hatch is closed may have failed most often on the left top latch

 

Find a schematic and analyze it to minimize guess work.. Relay clicking as it should when you switch to roll window UP, means logic is working, but:
1) Power is not getting from relay to motor (what Wyoming is talking about ^^.). Get a multi-meter and check where you're losing power.

2)Control module is defective (i.e., cold solder^^), so relay contacts close but there is no power for it to send to motor.

3) "UP" Relay circuit in control module has high resistance (oxidation from exposure to weather?), it takes voltage from stronger battery^^ to make it work.

 

Rear windows, sheesh...

The rear window is a ground-based system. Ground the right wires through a test light (light will NOT light up) and the window will go up or down. I'm assuming they didn't change wire colors from my 87 to your 95, that could be wrong.

Given neither is working and you already checked the rear wiper was parked, but you can do it with a battery, my $$ is on the relay/relay connection. It's truly not a robust setup...

Pull your test light out, then open the left bay in the back (where you jack is) - does a '94 have a jack bay back there? And the tailgate swings up and the window is integrated? This post may not be that useful.

At the connector, probe the Blue/black SMALL wire, and the blue/white SMALL wire (these are for the gate switch), or the red/yellow, and red/something (these are for the center switch). Your window should go up and down depending on which wire you probe. NOTE: this will ignore the interlocks, so don't extend the window much with the tailgate down and make sure to put it back down.

If that works, your problem is between that junction and the tailgate. Check the wires going out of the quarter panel and into the tailgate.

If that doesn't work, your problem is at the relay. In my case, the relay connections were corroded and made poor connections. A little cleanup and some tweaking of the wire connectors and I was good to go.

Same testing as above at the relay will make the window go up or down (same wires, etc.). If they don't, it's the relay or the connections to the relay.

There are tons of threads on this issue.

 

I checked all the wireing and the relay box. I havent found anything corroded or slpit.

I know toyota put alot of stupid safty switches for the rear window.

i kknow one of them is the wiper blade is there any other safty switches i should check? before i get a new relay box. ?

 

By "checking", did you look, or did you test like Edesaur suggests?

Stupid safety switches are there for our own good, especially for stupid owners - LOL!.

How would you like your windows to go up/close (glass extends outside tailgate) while tailgate is down?
How would you like to step or kneel on an extend glass, or slam tailgate closed while glass is extended?
How would you like for a down switch to short out, from years of coffee spilt on it, and your window glass to comedown while your truck is un-attended?

Yes:

• Find a schematic of your truck.
• Do an actual functional/ electrical check.
• My window post may help, altho you need actual schematic of your model.

Best of luck.

 

Repeat...

1) Power is not getting from relay to motor (what Wyoming is talking about ^^.). Get a multi-meter and check where you're losing power.

2)Control module is defective (i.e., cold solder^^), so relay contacts close but there is no power for it to send to motor.

3)

"UP" Relay circuit in control module has high resistance (oxidation from exposure to weather?), it takes voltage from stronger battery^^ to make it work.

Did you check this?

 

I checked the power at the relay and i am reciving power.. I am loosing power somewere from just after the relay to were the wires attach in the tail gate. i think it might be a connection somewere. I looked and checked all the wires and they appear to be intact.
i wil lfind the scamitcs and double check my work. i am not mech, but i might be able to get this thing fixed on my own.. LOL .