Having an ongoing issue with my daughter's 93 4runner. SR5, V6 3.0, automatic. 170K miles. Just replaced the cap, rotor and spark plug wires. She was having random idle issues and on a couple of occasions it has stalled while at idle. It has happened both cold and at temperature, runs fine at highway speed with no stammering. Truck will start right back up after stalling.

I checked the vacuum lines and only found one near the front of the engine that was cracked and replaced it. Outside of that issue it seems to be running fine and she loves her truck. I want to just make it less stressful when she is out on the road doing her coffee sales.

Interested in any recommendations, things to check, replace, adjust. I never had any such issues with my Gen 1 '88 22RE, or my Gen 2 '95 3.0

Once again I do thank everyone's input. You all make me look good to my kids when they have a Toyota "problem"

 

Did you ever get that stubborn spark plug out? Have you checked all the other plugs? That's what I would be checking before I went any further with it.

 

Not yet but I am concerned that there ismore tothis then just the plugs. Right now with all that is going on can't really afford to take her truck completely off line just yet, but it is on the list to do. Thanks

 

I agree with yayfortrees. Check the spark plugs, and you might as well replace them if you are going to pull them, definitely the next logical step before you dive into it.

Check the plugs for fouling, heat stress, etc. Even if the plugs aren't the root of the problem they may help you figure out what is going on.

Good luck!

 

check the tps

 

What should I be checking for on the Throttlebody Position Sensor?

 

Check the FSM for the resistance specs. on the TPS. It will give different resistance values for different opening values. If the readings aren't within spec, try adjusting it. If it won't go within spec, than you probably have a bad TPS.

On that note, while you're checking the TPS, go ahead and check the AFM resistance, maybe the temp. sensor as well. There's probably more things to check, but I can't think of them right now.

 

Thank you yayfortrees, that is another thing I can check out without too much difficulty. I have FSM for a '90 and a '95, which would be the best one to use? I'm thinkin maybe the '95?

 

I would see if there's any difference in the resistance values between the two years. If there is, you might have to make sure you have the right specs for the vehicle. It's the '93 isn't it? They should both be the same, but who knows.

I hope that takes care of it for you. Keep us posted on any updates.

 

Anyone know anything concerning an "idle air controller"? It was recommended to me to check that out but I don't have any idea what that is.

 

mine is knida doind the same thing. only mine does it a hwy speed idk its kinda like someone filps the switch off for a second and right bak on. it doesnt compleatly stall out it happens so fast im knida like what the hell was that!!lol been working on that for a few days noew and it still does it.

 

I had this issue, in my case it was the IAC. Started then stalled a few times, then it would run fine. Sometimes you can clean it out and get away with it, other times you need a new one. I had a friend who had a MAF issue (newer truck), and it went away on its own 3vz-fe's 5vz-fe's both have this issue...

As for the TPS, you should have a check engine light code if this was bad. These newer TPS units are hard to test, not in the sense that its hard to hook a multimeter between the correct terminals, but in the sense that sometimes you won't find the fault.

Sometimes the fault is very minimal, so small that you won't get an improper reading from your multimeter, though your TPS could have an issue. The ECU can pick up this slight miscalculation as the TPS arm moves during operation, and then throws a code, if this isn't an electrical issue or an ECU issue

 

Will a thrown code always result in a CEL? (check engine light) If this is the case then I don't think it is the TPS as it has not shown any CEL thanks for the insight

 

Yea, the light comes on when a diagnostic code is stored.

But like yayfortrees was saying, its worth a shot to check if the TPS is adjusted properly, check the AFM, etc. There are many factors that can contribute to this problem. Good luck and let us know if you find anything else

 

Have a lead on a replacement throttle body so hopefully I will be able to determine if that was infact the issue, the IAC being bad and then I can also test the OEM one. The next big thing will be to get her to bring it to me!