My 93 is running a little warm and changing the thermostat didn't help it so I am thinking it's time for either a radiator flush our just replace it. Has anybody taken their radiator to a shop to be gone through and is this as good as just getting a new one?

I was also thinking about going to the yota yard in denver and getting a 3 core from a 3.0 as I great those are a direct replacement. I would then take it to a radiator shop and have them go through it.

Thoughts our suggestions are appreciated

 

I have taken several to the radiator shop and had them to power flush them. It will make a difference and the gunk that comes out of them is shocking. Probably a personal preference of getting a new one but the ones I have cleaned have held up great and no problems for me.

 

Right on, thanks! What aftermarket radiator would you go with?

 

I like a good brass/copper 3 core radiator without the top and bottom plastic tanks. It's infinitely rebuildable and does not crack when the frame is flexed out.

I went on the aluminum band wagon many years back. I found when the frame really flexes out, the welds on the aluminum broke and caused seepage. Luckily I held onto my old brass/cooper and just had it rebuilt. Been fine ever since and learned a lesson on that one.

 

After dealing with autozone, advance, oreily's rads i would only by OEM. Those things dont fit worth a crap. had to alter the one i got and to only find it leaked. Received another and it was different form the 1st, same part number sealed boxes.

 

I tried an aftermarket one in the past that had the plastic tanks and did not like it. I just have my old one repaired/cleaned and have not had any problems. Old school works great for me.

 

Funny thing none of the Radiator Shops around this area will touch the little radiators in our vehicles.

I have been told by all of them the labor is to expensive they can sell me a new one All metal cheaper then messing with mine.

If I was younger I would think about getting the equipment to do that work.

They just like doing Equipment and Heavy Trucks where they can charge $500.00 or more and people are happy.

 

i don't care for the plastic hybrid radiators either - have had issues with them in various vehicles, like cracking. old skool metal is where it's at since they can be repaired/brazed. power flush can remove lots of accumulation from the years - i would at least call around and get prices.

if you've already done the t-stat and are doing the radiator, consider replacing all the hoses and inspect the fan clutch is working properly and possibly replace the silicone inside. fan service: http://web.archive.org/web/200206090...fanclutch.html

 

that sounds like it was mounted too tightly.

i had one of those nice three-row brass/alum radiators, similar to these: http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...radiators.html

it worked well, until some idiot five lanes over on the freeway had a flat tire in his overloaded ghetto trailer rig... he didn't notice it, huge shower of sparks, and a chunk of aluminum from his wheel went into my radiator.

so i got an $88(?) aluminum radiator from rock auto... it worked well, but one hot day the temp gauge got slightly above the bottom mark, during an extended idling session.

so i replaced the fan clutch with an aisin clutch, and the temps have been perfect every since.

imho, if your current radiator isn't leaking, but you think that it's hot on occasion, there could be a problem other than just the radiator.

i've read claims that there is fan clutch fluid available from the dealer, if you want to try replacing that.

 

Who knows, never used a torque wrench on it, just feel and I know better to get all caveman on bolts.

I just think the aluminum was too thin and cracked around a weld, which is the next weak link.

Just as a reference, there is a shop here in town that rebuilds radiators that I use. Just two weeks ago he charged me $200 to totally rebuild my radiator. I quickly gave my card before he could change his mind.

 

How long was the turnaround? I'm only 45 min from Cheyenne

 

They did in a day. I don't know why is was so fast, but it was.

 

brass/copper is definitely stronger, but one of the other reasons that i gambled with aluminum was because of the weight difference.

i'm already at 4,000 lbs. empty, with no spare, which is ~500 lbs. over the factory weight. http://www.michigan.gov/documents/19...tr_20325_7.pdf

37" mtr's, 17" forged aluminum wheels, york oba/tank/fittings/hoses, rocker armor, tg rock assault front housing, dual cases, etc.

last month i even cut out all four of the side windows on the top :-0 which probably saved 40 lbs... right now i'm wondering how much the ratty old carpet weighs.

 

I like my Brass and copper just for the simple reason of being able to repair almost any damage with a propane torch some flux and solder.

 

Not sure of the avalibilty and conditions in other parts of the country. Here a radiator runs $50 plus core in the yards and then a good cleaning runs $35. It is common for the brackets to need some brazing to reattachment, but for their age are in great condition.

The Preston flush kit wont get them clean, it does take a power flusher. I too am wanting to get torch, flux and solder to repair them. A container with water and low pressure air to look for leaks is all the local shop here has for their shop.

 

I got a rad from Napa. Fit perfect and had no issues. Course this was years ago. I notice a lot of people seem to forget about Napa.

 

Same here. Had a 3.0 NAPA radiator left over from a dismantled dually, practically new. I put it in my 88 4r, 22re, and it fit damn near perfect.

 

Ok,there are a lot of misconceptions here about radiators. They are NOT repairable indefinitely. Between age,corroding inside or outside from lack of maintenance a lot of radiators do no survive the rebuilding process. After all the heat and flux and cleaning and brushing older or poorly maintained radiators will have little tiny seepers in the thin tubes in the core and those are not repairable. I've seen other radiator guys slap a bunch of paint on a failed rebuild and call it good. I don't like that. Second,don't "braze" anything on a radiator. With the right silver solder and knowledge you can repair cracks in the brass tanks and silver soldering is a form of brazing,but taking a normal brazing rod and a torch to a radiator usually ends up in a mess that I either can't fix,or makes it hard for me to fix. Copper/brass radiators are typically more repairable,but not everything/everyone can be repaired and what some people might call a repair doesn't mean it's a good one. I have seen all kinds of bad "repairs" in the 15 years I've been doing this.

 

If you want a good radiator,take a copper/brass one to a good radiator shop that is going to give you good solder penetration on all the solder joints,then backfill them til they're full. Use a good quality core (I prefer Pacific out of Canada) and block off the outside row of tubes if it's a serpentine core (our trucks and most passenger cars are) to help prevent against core bulging and split tubes. You have to be careful with the old oem Toyota radiators in our trucks. They were good radiators that usuallylast a long time,but most of them are at the end of their lifespan. Even re-coring them with a good core. The tanks on the old oem ones like to crack,especially the v6 ones,all those hot/cold and pressure cycles add up over the years.

 

Thanks Turd. Which aftermarket radiator would you go with?