I haven't seen any good ones in a long time. I can't remember whether it was valeo that used to make a decent one,at least the v6 one I have I think was a valeo,but I haven't seen that brand for a while. If proliance still makes a copper/brass one you might try them,but those aren't the greatest either. Actually I think they're called thermal solutions now. They've changed names at least 5 times since I've been around. Modine used to be the best aftermarket radiator that I knew of (they made some oem stuff for some car companies even) but they haven't been making radiators since they merged with gdi to form vista-pro or proliance or whatever the hell they first called themselves after the merge. And that was over 10 years ago. I think modine kept some of their industrial manufacturing after the merge,but not passenger car stuff.

 

I never understood the importance of corrosion inhibitors. I'm only guessing they don't last, and due to pinhole leaks, acids broke down the fins? I replaced this soon after the gauge started running towards hot and was not aware how many fins were gone under the shroud. Still, it was a satisfying repair-off to China with it.

 

Here is an inexpensive copper/brass new radiator on Ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-4RUNNER-NEW-RADIATOR-84-89-2-4L-NON-TURBO-/8009803013?hash=item1dd6be505&vxp=mtr
I got my '95 runner with a new copper radiator in it made by Radicon in Thailand.
The quality seems good, but I don't know where to source one.

 

will a radiator for an 89 4runner for a 93 pickup?

 

You must live somewhere that uses a lot of salt on the roads,or at the coast. That or the the truck at one time spent a lot of time in those conditions. The only time I see radiators that have that kind of fin rot are from the coast because we don't use salt where I live.

 

It should. There is a slight difference in the bottom neck location sometimes in the 4cyl ones between 4runner and pickups,I don't remember why and which ones. A v6 one will bolt in,but will hang down a little lower because it has a couple inche taller core. The top neck is at a slight angle instead of straight and can slightly kink the top hose unless you get creative. Before I got creative I ran mine kinked for several years and it still overcooled.

 

Thanks. I may just go with the aluminum radiator from lowrangeoffroad thats made for a 84-90 22re even though my truck is a 93 model

 

I wonder what the difference is on the 91 and newer.

 

Overcooled? The thermostat should take care of that shouldn't it?

 

You would think. It just appeared to me to be a little too cool. My friend ran (still runs) the same setup and I don't know what temperature is normal on a stock gauge,but ours always ran between about 1/8th and 1/4. 1/4 is the absolute highest it would go in both our trucks on the hottest summer days. It just seems like every other truck i've seen like ours even with a new 4cyl radiator runs closer to half on the stock temp gauge.

 

Very difficult to tell with the stock gauge. I have one of the 22re plastic tank jobbers. I'm pretty sure someone installed a 180 thermostat and the gauge is at 1/4 99% of the time.
It does the typical temp overshoot at warm up but then it's back to 1/4 or lower.

 

I have the same question

 

I have a 2WD with a leaking OEM radiator. Both necks are cracked and the top tank has several "seepage" spots. There's an all aluminum one on Amazon for $83 which seems like a good deal. I've heard bad things about the plastic tank ones, but it seems every modern car uses them without issue.

 

You could always use some thicker rubber grommets and flat washers between the radiator and the core support. It should cut down the amount of twist placed upon an aluminum or plastic tank radiator.

 

Yeah,even all aluminum ones seem to have a lot of issues. Some people get lucky though. All that vibration goes to the corners of the core and likes to crack the tubes right at the tube to header joint. And if you don't stay kept up on flushing/maintaining the cooling system and the ph goes south radiators with aluminum cores don't like that. If you have any bad grounds/electrical issues electrolysis will burn holes in tubes also. And none of those are repairable other than using a good epoxy,and even if it holds,it probably won't last long.

 

A sacrificial anode can be used in the radiator help with electrolysis problems. JCWhitney used to sell a decent one that sat under the radiator cap. I don't think they called it an anode though.

 

Yeah we used to sell those. "Rad cap" is the one we used to sell. Used to sell various different "anti electrolysis" additives too. Even with all of that some people couldn't resolve thier issues and got rid of their cars. Fixing whatever is causing the electrolysis is the solution (if possible),but even there we had people getting rid if their cars after taking them to automotive shops that specialized in electrical and couldn't figure it out. Years ago we got some information on doing a more vigorous flush with a type of flush gun that really agitates anything in the block and sends it packing. Apparently tiny rust metal flakes whirling around in the cooling system can actually start making electrical current in some cases causing electrolysis.

 

My only experience with a non OEM radiator was an all metal CSF. I cannot recommend these. It started leaking after a basically no time at all. OEM radiators appear to be currently available for like three hundred something. I kinda want to get a couple of them. A full rework restoration might go as high as $600. I just had my OEM radiator tanked and what not for $65, but there are sort of a finite number of times that can be done.

The heater core is no longer available from Toyota. Mine was totally shot. I'm having a copper one made custom by The Brassworks in Paso Robles, CA. It'll be between $250-300.

 

The tanks should be reusable on you old heater core,just have it recored. I just rebuilt one last month. Our trucks have a serpentine core with drop seam headers just like a tiny radiator,so as long as the core itself isn't leaking,bulging,or has split tubes it should be rebuildable. Most heater cores have a cellular core that are not rebuildable. If your core isn't rebuildable I would have it recored. It would probably be in the $200 range.

 

These are the two radiators I'm looking at to replace the stock unit on my 1993 pickup. Anybody have any experience with these?

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yotam...r-teu-are.html

http://www.lceperformance.com/Heavy-...-p/1093066.htm

Also, does anybody know why the all aluminum radiator is for an 84-90 year model?

Thanks guys