1990 T4r 4x4 w/auto 3vc

Dilemma, appears the A/C is working but not putting out cool air? Not sure how difficult it would be to charge the A/C by purchasing a basic charge kit for $30 to $100 then try adding a can of R12 to determine if I need to take the vehicle to shop and having the system change over to R134 at around $400???

Comments./Suggestions appreciated!!

 

I resurrected mine with two cans of R12 and it’s still going fine, so I opt for the simplest solution. I bought an adapter hose off ebay to recharge it. Don’t remember the cost but total was less than $50.

 

You cannot legally buy R12 unless you have a license. That won't necessarily stop someone on eBay from selling it to you, but look carefully. A search on eBay for "R12" returns hundreds of hits, but almost all of them are "R12 Brand" refrigerant, not actually R12! Would it hurt to mix some propane and butane (most of the "environmentally safe" offerings are a mixture of propane and butane, also completely illegal but for different reasons) with your current R12? I don't know, but I suppose you have little to lose. Well, if your problem is a leak (what else could it be?) do you want propane leaking into the passenger compartment?

Here's what I know about converting from R12 to R134a: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-r134a-284801/ Rather than buying some clearly illegal cans off eBay and hoping for the best, I'd start with picking up a $100 set of gauges and see if your problem is actually low refrigerant

 

Thank you for the prompt response. I am looking at a kit that includes a couple cans of R12a and 1 can of oil assuming a can of oil may not hurt in the event seals or gaskets may need lubrication. Not sure whether to go with the dual gauge manifold or just the single low pressure hose kit that includes the oil and 2 cans of R12a?

If I understand correctly the R12a may be a slight upgrade from the vintage R12. I do have a can of the Vintage R12 from years ago and do not know whether the rusted top and contents is usable. Intend purchasing a kit that includes a couple cans of R12a and oil at a cost of around $50 on a trial basis and not successful then take it to an AC shop and switch to the R134 system?

Thank U''s for the comments!!

 

"R12a" isn't a real refrigerant, it's a marketing name for the illegal propane-butane mix. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a

I understand your reluctance to sink a few hundred dollars into a 31-yr old truck; you just want to limp along until Fall (or as we call it in California, the Fire Season). DIY replacement of the refrigerant will set you back at least $200 just for the tools. My suggestion is to do it right, but I understand if you want to take a chance. Just understand that chance is exactly what you're taking with "R12a".

 

My system was flat when I bought the '87 . A while back I pulled the evap and cleaned all the debris out(just loaded with leaves), and replaced all the o-rings. Then went and replaced all the o-rings under the hood. Put in a new receiver/dryer. I pulled vacuum and let it sit overnight with the service gauges hooked up to make sure I didn't have any leaks. I then recharged with R134 since it costs so much less. Its been blowing cold ever since, maybe 2-3 years? i had planned to get R12 put in if everything went ok, but I never did. Pound for pound R12 is colder, but I'm happy with the results.

The o-rings were stated as being compatible with either gas. The kit did include new o-rings for the charge port plates on the compressor, but nothing for inside. so I knew that was a risk. I had priced a new Denso Compressor and it was cheap enough that it was worth a gamble.

Side note. One of the cheapest repairs I did that helped with engine sound was installing a new Koyo bearing in the magnetic clutch. It was dirt cheap, maybe $20.00 from McGeorge Toyota, and made a big difference in how the engine sounded at idle. I ended up doing the same with my alternator. It was a Denso unit, but had been rebuilt with Federal bearings. Got the proper Koyo bearings and it made a similar difference as the magnetic clutch.

 

Appreciate U'all for the input I am moving into the taking the vehicle to A/C shop camp and have them go thru the system fix leaks, and charge and be done with it.