How's it look?

All I did was install a lock-rite and torque the spanner rings to an even 100 ft*lb.

Drive side pics (2)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...y/IM000406.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...y/IM000407.jpg

Coast side
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...y/IM000408.jpg

 

What is that, grease? Usually installers use paint. E-mail Zuk for professional advice. http://www.gearinstalls.com/

 

RustBucket--- your coast side pattern shows me that your pattern is ok. Used gears are a pain to set....especially with just lithium grease as a pattern check. And tightening the spanner rings equally does not effect the pattern. Run it.

 

An okay from Zuk is all I need...

 

I freely admit that I have no real experience with gears, so let Zuk be your guide, that being said, in this pic:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...y/IM000407.jpg

Does it seem like the pattern is running at the very top of the teeth? Isn't that a bad thing or is it ok because they appear to be going the full depth? This is more just to answer my own curiosity than because I think Zuk is wrong, I just don't understand.

 

that pattern does look a little high, but hes using old gears as well

 

Intrepid your avatar is so badass I can hardly stand it.

Wouldn't paint be a bad thing to get in a differential case? Or is it a special type of paint? By the way, when I check this pattern, and I supposed to turn the ring gear or the pinion?

 

Is there no way you can adjust that out or is it just not worth doing on old gears? Also, is that weaker that way?

 

We need to get Zuk to teach a R&P seminar.

 

Haha, yeah we do!

So you have regeared and are now locked...even though you didn't think you would originally...so when is the SAS?

 

not for a long time, my friend. I would actually much sooner buy an 85 when a good one comes along and sell this 88 to a friend.

However... future mods WILL include a set of RustBucket-fabbed sliders (welding class project) with a rear bumper to match.

Of course, I really need to stop working, studying, and working on cars so I can actually wheel this thing!

 

BAH! Once you know how to weld, you can do the swap yourself, rather than buy the kit, build the parts yourself, then all you really need to buy is some steel, hi-steer, and an axle. I just put the wider IFS rear axle and spacers into my runner, what an amazing difference, no to mention it looks better! Do the swap on the truck you've got!

 

Ok so we're both posting this much at the same time... get on IM, it will save some time.

 

ya, I saw that too .....but the lithium grease and the way RustBucket generated the pattern just throws everything off. Looking at the last pic (coast) the depth looks correct. Still hard to read though.
Paint is a ring gears friend. You can paint every tooth and nothing is hurt. The paint might not wear off for 20 years. PRECISION sends their Yota ring and pinions out with paint all oner 75% of the teeth. The paint doesn't even seem to mix with the gear oil in any way....so no worries about yellow gear oil.
The best way to generate the pattern....is to offer a small resistance on the pinion by grabbing it with a rag and rotate the ring gear by placing a 17mm wrench on a ring bolt and TURN THE RING with the wrench. The bolt will not loosen up if it was properly tightened in the first place and if you don't grab the pinion flange with "excessive resistance". Thiis method of pattern generation is the easiest to read. And RustBucket- you need some good marking compound....maybe call Randys and order up some. Yellow seems to show the best and they have it.
I don't know about classes.... :walk: ZUK