Does anyone know how much side to side play I can get from the arm that is connected to the rear diff? I need to move it up to 1.5 to 2 inches to the side. If it's not going to be able to move, Can I switch it over to something that doesn't sense the load(anyone have any ideas what would work for this?). I'm pretty sure cutting the arm would be a bad idea. Anyone got any thoughts for me?

Also, I'm looking at moving the shock absorber closer towards the center of the truck. Is it held on with bolts, or will I have to have new studs welded to the frame?

I'm doing this for my suspension project, I won't say much here, but I'll post pictures and a write-up when I'm done.

 

OK, so apparently I can move it up and down and adjust the movement out (hopefully) according to the FSM, but does anyone know about side to side? Another thought I had was to be able to manually adjust it from the cab (kind of like the old choke cables, because honestly, the thing isn't loaded much of the time, and when it is (unless I'm pulling the trailer) it's not enough to change things in the suspension too terribly much.

Is my redneck showing yet?

 

If you want, you can buy an eliminator. If I was going to do it the wrong way, I'd mount the swing arm to the body as well and just cut the end off. The working of this LSPV is as simple as it looks.

 

i just unhooked it from the axle and shoved it in a hole in the body


nothin like outsmartin those stupid engineeers

 

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...918719&NeXID=5

 

FROR sells a kit that has the prop valve and the needed fittings to connect to your yota. It took me about 30 minutes to install including bleeding. The valve cleans up your rear end (eliminates the brake return line and LPSV completely). Well worth it to get rid of the junk.

 

I have some info on the Summit valve in my disc writeup. Just scroll down a bit:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...c-swap-107749/

As others have said the LSPV can be tweaked in a lot of ways. Just keep in mind how it's supposed to work. Meaning, when a lot of weight is in the back, the lever is pushed up. That sends more fluid to the rear wheels. Use that knowledge when you modify to get the results you are looking for.

 

all the way up on the frame does it for me. if i hit my breaks to hard the rears will lock up before the fronts...but i know how to apply it just right

 

I have rear ABS, is there any reason I shouldn't push the LSPV arm all the way up and let the ABS do its job?

 

ABS and LSPV do different jobs. If you pin up the LSPV lever, ABS will still work the same... just will apply more bias to the rear.

ABS: No skidding.
LSPV: Brake bias front to rear.

 

I know what they do, but I was thinking that if the ABS is going to prevent skidding from too much brake force, you could technically push the LSPV all the way up if you didn't mind the ABS kicking in sooner than normal.

Speaking of early Toyota rear ABS, I've never really felt it working. Is it any good? I don't think I've ever locked up the rear on road. ABS doesn't work when you're in 4wd, so you can lock the wheels offroad.