It all started from this thread. I pickup up my 4Runner after having a used A/T installed and the 3.0 apparently is running fine. I still have alot of work to do on it, and it will all need to be done by myslef since I'm over budget and want to learn some things anyways. Here is whats on the list just to have it road worthy:

Usable fuel tank + new pump brackets and filler hoses

new brakes(pretty much everything from all new lines to new pads/shoes)

try to clean up some areas of the frame while I have the gas tank out

new rear shocks

And now for the pictures... warning these pictures may be disturbing to those who haven't seen road salt damage:



Do you think these calipers are salvagable? I havent noticed if the pistons are seized, but I'd imagine they will be.




Should I be able to turn the hub with this in 'Park' and with the e-brake on?


Dam, looks like I'll have to replace the front brake line too, its all rusty where the loops in the line are






I'm going to have to remove all the old rotten lines, it will make things more simple with the gas tank out wouldn't it?


Wow, the rear shocks are rusted pretty bad...but they still work!


Here is looking up near the fuel filler pipe, what is the smaller passage next to it?


Bumpstop came off and check out that pine cone stuck in there.




Is that road salt thats never been washed off?? That would explain why it gets so rusty near the tank.






Rotten curly (brake?) lines that you can seee from engine bay.



Rotten gas tank components... the tank itself doesn't appear that bad... I'll have to inspect it more.








This is the result of letting a vehicle sit for over two years outside... not pretty, but with some elbow grease and some working parts, this running should be about to hit the roads once again hopefully for another 308,000Kms. Any suggestions/hints for getting this work done?

 

Price of living in the rust belt... seriously was that dragged off the bottom of the ocean?
I see rust like that I cringe...
Well clean it up really good and use POR15 on the frame...

 

nice project though, all in all. Lots of work ahead!
calipers are made of some thick material. rebuild kits are 12.95 or something. Dont throw out your anti rattle springs because the hardware kit is 25. if the anti rattle springs are bad then use some safety wire. Thats me anyways.
Just take out your pistons tape off the piston walls, and blast and paint, or spray some rust converter on it.

 

holy rust! man alive i thought mine was rusted bad when i bought it. my grandpa told me somethin awhile back whiel i was spray painting some old chairs for him: the best way to deal with rust is put more paint over it. haha. but nice project. get a tetnus(sp?) shot after you get done haha

 

holly crap man..

 

Man, i feel sorry for you guys up there..

None of the cars around me have ANY rust..
Thats insane.................


Good luck fixing it up. Is there a trick to doing so?

 

That's why I leave my truck down south anytime I've got to go up north for any period of time.

 

Wow, she's got a wee bot of cancer working on her, a bit worse than my old girl. Good project and if you have the time I'm sure you'll get her going once again. keep us informed on your progress

 

Well summer is almost over and I've accomplished almost nothing on this project. All new parts are on the way for gas tank, shocks, and brake line stuff.

I've spent the last week or so knocking all the flaking rust off from the frame etc... now I'm attempting to remove the old brake lines and its turning into a nightmare.

I just noticed that it has ABS, and the lines at the front are rotten. I can remove the fittings front the "T" junction, but how on earth do you remove the end from the ABS pump at the front. There appears to be no fittings! The line runs into a rubber hose at the front then just goes into the pump, which doesn't make sense to me. Anyone ever replace or have any knowledge about these brakes lines at the front for ABS? Thanks.

 

your a braver man than i

 

When you get it apart let us know how it works out! Sorry I can't be of more assistance.

 

If you think that rust is bad, I'll get some pics of my (now dead) 4runner and post them up! Mine spent the first 10ish years of it's life in Minnesota.

Two rust memories stand out...first, when I got a flat offroading and then tried to remove the spare from underneath the back when the lowering mechanism was rusted to the point it was seized...we used a hatchet and a small sledge to eventually get it out, but there was a signifant pile of rust 'flakes' on the ground over the entire area of where it was sitting you could take a rubber mallet, hit anywhere on the body of the 4runner, and watch rust fall off/out.

Second time was when replacing the clutch, we snapped so many rusted bolts in half that we went from the mindset of replacing every nut/bolt to announcing "ok, forget it, 5 outta 6 ain't bad!", "da**it, 4 outta 5 ain't bad.", "seriously?! 3 outta 4 ain't bad...", "*snap* ...2 outta 3 ain't bad? Is this really gonna be safe? Oh well, buckle up and wear a helmet!"

Transmission never caused any issues, I used some heavy-duty HVAC zipties to secure the swaybars (which actually held long enough for me to forget about them ) because I still had the "I'll get a drill and tap set...I'll fix all these little problems!" attitude. I just cut them off a few weeks later before an offroad meet...

 

wow !! , looks like anything you touch on that truck will just fall apart. Really, good luck man !!

 

that sucks man, 2 outta 4 of my vehicles have been scrapped due to rust, i feel ur pain

 

Same thing here haha, rust piles everywhere. I blame most of it on the old undercoating that causes move rust than it prevents...



Well turns out I was looking at something entirely different. The lines that I had to remove (for the ABS) weren't the ones I thought they were (described in previous post)... the ABS lines run from the "T" junction to the ABS box underneath the battery. So I got them removed, it took almost an hour due to the lack of room to turn the fittings, but those are out.

I have an old brake flaring tool, but I can't seem to get it to work. I think I might not be strong enough. I'm going to order factory lines for the ones I just ripped out but I will try and bend my own lines that go from the front to the LSPV.

Just for you info, they are listed as "TUBE, REAR BRAKE, NO.7" and "TUBE, REAR BRAKE, NO.6" seen here:

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_199...EK_4708.4.html

 

wow man... I suddently don't hate being down south in Florida as much...

good luck


I got a rust-free 91 Pickup I'll sell ya lol

 

Well here are some pics ...






The frame doesn't look quite as bad since I tried to remove about 80% of the flaky rust and chunks of old undercoating. Its still rusty though, but solid.





Theres where the two lines for the abs lead to...




A couple of days ago my rust free tank arrived! it even came with some parts still on it which saved some $$$


When my new tank parts arrive (pump bracket, sending unit etc) I will try an get it all connected so I can finally fire it up for the first time and give the rad a half decent flush. The brake lines are quite the hassle to remove, so I may just reroute the long ones that go from front to back. I still have to figure out the flaring tool... the one I have isn't very good. If it wasn't for road salt, all this work would be 100% easier.

 

keep it up!

 

Nice it will get better keep working on it.

 

When you get that all done would you like to come and do mine as well? lol Its only less than a 5 hour drive lol. I drive up Latchford sometimes because thats where my grandma lives. and I was born in New Liskeard