So I'll use the GL-4...

 

Alright, I understand...I just was not sure if it was year specific that's all...

 

The only GL-4 I'm aware of besides the Amsoil & Red Line synthetics already mentioned is Sta Lube 85W90 conventional, which is available at NAPA. Being a conventional oil with paraffins, it gets real thick in freezing temps, though. You might get by with it in the Tidewater area but the syns would of course have much better cold weather performance.

 

Don't get much colder then 30 here. Just went to auto zone and he told me that 80w-90 GL-5 would be fine. I didn't buy it though. Do you think he's right at all?

 

Mazzola, when I asked where in the pedal travel does the clutch engage, I didn't mean for you to take anything apart. I just meant where is the clutch pedal when it first starts to engage. (I.E. an inch or two from the floor (good), or as soon as the pedal starts to come off the floor (bad).)

Quote: "Oil was real real low. Like a cm of fluid. Does the 22r take a special kind does anyone know? Or is all transmisson oil the same? I have no clue about transmissons. " Just so you're clear, the 22R takes motor oil, because it's the motor. That's what you're checking with the dipstick. The transmission doesn't have a dipstick (unless somebody has added one at some point, or the 4WDs are way different). There is a fill plug on the side of the transmission. With that removed, the oil either dribbles out or it doesn't. If it does, it's full, if nothing comes out, add gear oil until it starts to run out the fill plug, and then replace the plug.

As far as GL-4 vs. GL-5, I thought all gear oils have sulfur? That's where the famous gear oil smell comes from, right?

From what we learned in school, the sulfur is added to the gear oil to help it hold up to all the shear forces from the meshing of the gears. Without it, the gears would break down the oil too quickly.

I'm running Valvoline 75-90 GL-5 in my '90 Toyota 2WD, and the transmission has never shifted better. It's super quiet, shifts smoothly, and feels great. When I looked for gear oil last month, the local Napa didn't even have any GL-4. If the GL-5 eats up my synchros, and I doubt it will, then it will be time for a new transmission or rebuild anyway.

 

The GL-5 have a sulfur compound that the GL-4s don't. Use what you want.

 

While I haven't bothered reading pages 16 and 17 of the study, I find it highly suspicious considering it's a report published by Amsoil. I would be much more inclined to believe an independent, 3rd party study, but not a direct competitor. Just about every product in this country is marketed so heavily, the manufacturers will lie, cheat and steal to get everything they can. As a result, I take everything with a great big grain of salt.

 

http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/gear_lube.htm
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...hronizers.aspx
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=120197&page=1

 

I use CAT brand 80-90 in the winter and 85-140 in my front and rear diffs and the transfer case. but just 80-90 in the tranny

 

Thank you. And I'm pretty positive I checked the tight place. Can someone post a pic of where to check for my transmission oil please?

 

I don't have a pic but will tell you that it is on the driver side of the trans about half way up and in front of the electrical connector with wires coming out of it. To check the fluid level the truck must be somewhat LEVEL in both axis and simply remove the bolt, if fluid comes out then level is fine, if no fluid comes out then you need to add fluid.

BTW my W56 shifts really hard between 1st and 2nd, and 2nd and 3rd and everything is fine, I think its a internal problem and am going to drive it till it grenades.

 

SB5, now those are some interesting pages of reading. Funny how almost all three of them gave different answers. I liked the first link from Macy's Garage. Sounded very accurate, but then again...?

So it was the Lucas brand that used the active sulfur? I will be sure to stay away from that.

Anyway, thanks for the reading, good stuff.

 

It's engaging and disengaging an inch or two correctly. I don't think the problem is my actual clutch I replaced it about 4-5 months ago.

 

Yeah, I didn't figure the problem was in the clutch itself. The slave cylinders go out quite commonly, and the original clutch pedal brackets will usually crack at some point. Either condition will cause the clutch not to disengage completely, and will cause difficult shifting.

Unfortunately, it sounds like you may have some internal damage. If the clutch is disengaging all the way, and the gear oil level is correct, it's probably time to pull the transmission.

Have you pulled the shift plate to inspect the shift seat bushing yet? Hopefully that will take care of it, and you won't have to do a full rebuild.

Keep us posted.

 

I haven't and I've it to work until 8 but I'm off Friday and hopefully I can get to it then. I will keep everyone posted.

 

Without making fun of me... Can someone post a pic of where to check my transmisson oil? I feel retarded.

 

where do I go from here to check my bushing.

 

Wabfab I need your coaching!

 

Gnarly4x, SB5Walker posted a few links above regarding GL-4 vs. GL-5. They all kind of give different views / opinions about it, but I liked the first link. It sounded very accurate and informed. Basically, GL-4 and GL-5 are performance specs, and do not indicate whether or not the oil uses active sulfur or de-activated sulfur. So GL-4 vs. GL-5 doesn't really matter. What does matter is whether or not the gear oil contains active sulfur, which supposedly can stain or corrode yellow metals. At least, that's what I got out of it.

Mazzola, from the picture it looks like you're very close. Just pull the plate around your main shifter. It should lift straight up once all the bolts are out. Make sure you clean it up first, so you don't knock any dirt or grime inside. You should find that the shifter goes through the plate, and it should have a nylon-like bushing attached to the end. This is the bushing you want to inspect. Also, look at the seat, which will be the metal circle directly underneath. The bushing should fit in the seat without much slop, but it shouldn't be tight either.

 

Got it out



looked worn but idk how to really tell had to put it back in so I could drive it to school in the morning. But I learned alot about it tonight.


sorry bout the flash it was dark.