Pictures of my rebuild
#22
Jason,
Well I would imagine despite the fact that you have the auto, you should still have more power than me at the rear wheels. It would be interesting though to compare your power to that of an auto 3.4. Also - our gearing will be different because we have different trannies. Yours will be 4.88 more than likely at the rear diffs (stock - auto rear end for 31" tires), mine is 4.56 becuase I Have the manual (and stock 31" tires).
As for gear lubes and such I actually have some left over from when I did mine. I used all amsoil products. I Just used the Amsoil long life synthetic gear lube that I picked up from the locaol auto parts store. It was like $12-13a quart though but you can double your interval and when they poured out my stock fluids they were clear as can be when they did the change so I should have no problem going that far because my gears are well broken in. For my manual tranny I used Amsoils manual transmission and transaxle fluid which is a GL-4, but I used the other fluid for my front & rear diffs & transfer case (GL-5). For your auto I'm not sure if it spec's in the owners manual if you need to run the same auto tranny fluid in your transfer case as well.
Just don't expect to save a bunch of $$$ doing this kind of change. It's pricey. And for the record the stock fluids are very good despite not being non synthetic so I wouldn't be scared of going that way if you had to, mind you Mopac near you does sell Redline synthetic fluids if I remember correctly (which are also very good and lots of guys have done) as well as Royal Purple fluids. Just make sure you get on top of having the exact right fluid (GL-5 for the diff's - not sure what your transmission and transfer case need).
Well I would imagine despite the fact that you have the auto, you should still have more power than me at the rear wheels. It would be interesting though to compare your power to that of an auto 3.4. Also - our gearing will be different because we have different trannies. Yours will be 4.88 more than likely at the rear diffs (stock - auto rear end for 31" tires), mine is 4.56 becuase I Have the manual (and stock 31" tires).
As for gear lubes and such I actually have some left over from when I did mine. I used all amsoil products. I Just used the Amsoil long life synthetic gear lube that I picked up from the locaol auto parts store. It was like $12-13a quart though but you can double your interval and when they poured out my stock fluids they were clear as can be when they did the change so I should have no problem going that far because my gears are well broken in. For my manual tranny I used Amsoils manual transmission and transaxle fluid which is a GL-4, but I used the other fluid for my front & rear diffs & transfer case (GL-5). For your auto I'm not sure if it spec's in the owners manual if you need to run the same auto tranny fluid in your transfer case as well.
Just don't expect to save a bunch of $$$ doing this kind of change. It's pricey. And for the record the stock fluids are very good despite not being non synthetic so I wouldn't be scared of going that way if you had to, mind you Mopac near you does sell Redline synthetic fluids if I remember correctly (which are also very good and lots of guys have done) as well as Royal Purple fluids. Just make sure you get on top of having the exact right fluid (GL-5 for the diff's - not sure what your transmission and transfer case need).
#23
I got a call from LCE today. Was a guy named Jay. He talked to Monica since I was at work. Says the headers will be back from ceramic coaters tonight or tomorrow morning and will be sent out very soon afterwards. So I am hoping about middle of next week. The only problem is he said the price we were quoted wasn't the real price and that it will be more. Monica told him that we actually paid on July 19th. The transaction was done so this had better work out. Am I correct in assuming that they have to honor the price?
It was listed as $649 on the website when we called and placed the order. Now the price is $799 and I think they don't want to sell at that price($649).
I am planning on rebuilding the starter as well while it is out. Is it worth using Toyota parts or does somewhere like Lordco have a rebuild kit for them? I would assume that if I go to Toyota I will have to buy every little spring and bearing separate.
Jason
#24
You paid what they asked you to pay. If they can't provide a service for what they were selling it at then they got some explaining to do and you can let them know that the entire Toyota community which advertises their products by word of mouth through this very discussion board will be listening to their reasoning for not honouring the price you paid for the product.
#25
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Damn dude! LCE is really not lookin too good right now.
I thought they said they shipped them like a week ago?!
Seems you got shafted on this one eh?
Do you have a recept from the payment you made? Well tell them you paid and thats that.. Seems kinda wierd how they changed their price like that..
I thought they said they shipped them like a week ago?!
Seems you got shafted on this one eh?
Do you have a recept from the payment you made? Well tell them you paid and thats that.. Seems kinda wierd how they changed their price like that..
#26
I figure I paid what they were asking, it's not my fault that the price went up. We will see what they have to say in the next few days. If I have any troubles I'll sick Monica on them. Then they'll be sorry.
I just got back in from the garage where I was doing a little re and re. I put up a few more pics so if you see anything wrong then let me know. Thanks again for the heads up. Also...the plenum is obviously just sitting there for the pics.
I guess I'll tear the starter apart tomorrow night if I get a chance.
Jason
I just got back in from the garage where I was doing a little re and re. I put up a few more pics so if you see anything wrong then let me know. Thanks again for the heads up. Also...the plenum is obviously just sitting there for the pics.
I guess I'll tear the starter apart tomorrow night if I get a chance.
Jason
#29
I thought about the body color but decided against it. It's not a show truck or anything and I don't want to have to think twice about 4x4ing it. I just buffed everything up pretty good and left it at that. There were a few parts I painted in the beginning when I wasn't thinking. I hope it doesn't chip off and look like crap.
Jason
Jason
#31
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
I thought about the body color but decided against it. It's not a show truck or anything and I don't want to have to think twice about 4x4ing it. I just buffed everything up pretty good and left it at that. There were a few parts I painted in the beginning when I wasn't thinking. I hope it doesn't chip off and look like crap.
Jason
Jason
haha all jokes aside.. sweet pics, the progress continues
#33
Great pics man! I'd really like to try to rebuild my engine at some point. I have the will and the space to do it but I'm just lacking the knowledge, never done a rebuild before.
#34
This is my first as well. It is slow going....especially when you are waiting on parts. A big expense is all the tools you need to complete the job. Let me tell you if you don't have the right tools you will swear alot. When I was unbolting my bellhousing I had every extension I own stuck together. To put it back together I have a set of long extensions. The longest being 3'.
Jay351- Ordered the parts today from sparkplugs.com. They should ship on Friday.
Jason
Jay351- Ordered the parts today from sparkplugs.com. They should ship on Friday.
Jason
#38
Hey Jason - when are you gonna drop the engine in? I'm not sure what your plan of attack is i.e. whether you're planning on dropping the engine in with the headers on (without crossover pipe obviously), but I thought I read somewhere on here, that it's virtually impossible to drop this engine in with headers attached. Maybe someone can confirm/deny this, but again I thought I read this somewhere. Also, any idea on the eta for having it done? Were you thinking of doing a 5 speed swap before you got it going or will that have be for a rainy day down the line? Like I said I'm still down for doing a chassis dyno/comparison, etc, and I'm still open to the idea of footing up some money to get you on the dyno as long as it's not too much as well as to pay my own way.
#39
Jason
#40
Hey Jason - when are you gonna drop the engine in? I'm not sure what your plan of attack is i.e. whether you're planning on dropping the engine in with the headers on (without crossover pipe obviously), but I thought I read somewhere on here, that it's virtually impossible to drop this engine in with headers attached. Maybe someone can confirm/deny this, but again I thought I read this somewhere. Also, any idea on the eta for having it done? Were you thinking of doing a 5 speed swap before you got it going or will that have be for a rainy day down the line? Like I said I'm still down for doing a chassis dyno/comparison, etc, and I'm still open to the idea of footing up some money to get you on the dyno as long as it's not too much as well as to pay my own way.
Obviously (like you said) I just put the crossover on there for pics. The headers should be no problem. If you check out justinking's build thread you'll see they dropped the engine with Downey headers and the tranny attached. I do have an engine leveler if need be as well. Plus if both you guys are there then it should only take 30 mins or so to bolt it up, right?
I'm down for the dyno run. After my break in and fluid change of course so it will have to be a bit down the road. I'd love to see what it will do although I'm not expecting it to be a speed demon. After the 5 speed swap though it should be better.
Do you have msn? Mine is right under my avitar if you want. Makes things easier sometimes.
Jason



