haha i know. im so exhausted, and should go to bed, but i would rather stay up and look at stuff on YT!

 

I am currently doing this setup on my 95 4Runner. I was planning on making my own drop bracket, if I wasn't too lazy, now that is for sure that I will do that.
Any of you guys that have installed the front BJ spacers: Do you need to do a diff drop. Meaning if I don't do it, is there something bad coming that will bite me...I haven't found much info on that. Did you just make your own or is there something special?

 

What type of coils are you going to use? I am interested to see if your axle moves to the right like mine. I have had b.j. spacers on two rigs. The first was days ago and I didnt even know about the diff. drop, so I didnt have it. On my current rig I just installed b.j. spacers and bought the diff. drop but after some reading decided not to use it. You will be fine with out it. I would unload your torsion bars if not already.

 

Ok... so... adjustable panhard bar for 2nd gen. 4runner???
I went to a tractor supply shop today and bought an adjustable arm with hiem joints for $40. bucks! It is about 6" to short and I have to figure something for the lspv bracket to stay put while adjusting bar. I have a couple ideas about frankenstiening the stock bar with my new tractor bar. My question... Is forged metal weldable??? I was reading some stuff on weaking hardware by welding it. Theese hiem joints are beef but they say forged on it. I dont weld(maybe if I bought one I could learn myself...duh) so I will take to a fab. shop. Just want to make sure my ideas and parts are going to jive. Sorry I dont have pictures, I will try to get some up asap.

 

Maybe I should have started a seperate thread, sorry. Anyways heres the pictures.
Stock bar compared to new adjustable tractor bar

I want to cut both pieces where my thumb is and ditch the hiem. This way the lspv bracket stays put.

So when done it will look something like this, with nuts to lock the threaded ends to the bar to try and eliminate any slop. What do ya think? Can forged metal be welded? Will it be the weak point in this design?

 

I'm going to put OME 901 Coils on. The Tbars are at their stock setting right now.

 

Let us know how it turns out.

 

I took a look this afternoon. Completely stock my rear axle sits approx 3/4" toward the passenger side of the truck.

 

If you lift your rear, you're gonna need to bring the Proportioning valve arm up or you'll have less brake pressure going to the rear. That means all your brake duty is done at the front. In this pic, you can see the bracket I used to raised it up so the angle of the arm is the same.

 

Got the bar all built and it came out great. My computer at home just took a crap so it will be a while till I get pictures up.

 

Guess I have some work to do still.... just installed +4" pro comp coils and shocks in the rear. Was the drop bracket hard to fabricate for anyone who made there own?

 

what I did was measured from floor to bolt on left of bar then right side noted the difference and that was the length I made my drop _ 1/2 inch. I did weld collars in for bolts to go through for strength . by making my own my axle sat right where it should

 

also after making an extension for rear brakes the truck stopped better than it ever did

 

yea i was told about this brake lever a while ago, I maxed out the threads before i had my lift, but now its bottomed out again with the new lift. already made a bracket for an 83 p/u with a lift so it shouldn't be too hard. I noticed that the panhard drop brackets you buy online bolt up into the existing bracket a ways, but i didn't notice a hole. does this mean i have to drill a hole for more support or am I just missing something?

 

just measured from floor to bottom of both panhard bolts and came up with a 7" difference. Seems like the bracket would be a little long, but i'm not sure if thats right cause that would mean my bar would have been 3" out of wack while it was still stock?

 

bump, this is a good thread.

 

just a follow up on something i learned. I ordered a 6" drop bracket a while ago and got it installed. Seemed to work great (for a while), well my new coils have finally settled and I ran into an interesting problem. while taking a full load of my friends belongings to portland for him, my truck started getting extremely bad body roll on the freeway, the best way i can describe this is like standing up in a canoe while floating down the river and trying to keep your balance. anyways, pulled over and looked around and noticed my pan hard bar was actually angled down, not level, and the coil was flexing out towards the back alil. that side of the truck was very spongey and bounced very easily. So all I really have to say is dont worry about measuring from floor to bolts or any of that unless you do something custom and have to. You install a 4 lift, get a 4 in drop bracket, 3 in lift, 3 in" bracket, ect. Anyone want to buy a 6" drop bracket by the way? lol or trade me for a 4?