paint issues......need help!!!!
#1
paint issues......need help!!!!
I am repainting my beloved 89 Toyota and the paint pools up like if you sprayed Wax paper. I am no stranger to auto paint, the body was washed about 15 times with dawn soap, and even Ajax, sanded thru the previous clear coat (I LEAVING PREVIOUS BASE COAT OF UNKNOWN TYPE OF PAINT) prepped the paint with Prep All wax and degreaser. The 8paint (Acrylic Urethane) won't stick to original paint. I have ruled out my equipment so could this be silicone fish eye reducer maybe used by previous owner ???? I'm not sure he used any but the paint won't stick. Please help
Last edited by fatcat78; 08-05-2014 at 04:50 PM.
#2
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I run into a similar issue like that and am curious as to what you find out. There are a few professionals on here and thinking they will jump in and add some info.
#3
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I sense an essay coming on.
The paint should have no issues sticking assuming its properly prepped. Auto paint uses 2 kinds of adhesion. Chemical, and mechanical. Chemical is exactly like its sounds, the chemical bond between the different layers, and the mechanical bond is the scratch that you put into the bottom layer while sanding.
as for mechanical adhesion, judging by your picture the paint is still pretty shiny so its doubtful its sanded enough. If you're using a sealer of some sort a 320 grit should suffice. 400 to be safe. If not sealing, 800 should be about right. Check the tech sheets for the paint your using and they can give you everything you need to know.
As for chemical adhesion, be sure you arn't using anything with silicone in it. Silicone will cause instant fish eyes. If previous fish eye remover was used it won't effect your current paint as it should cure along with the hardeners in the paint.
in my opinion judging by that picture, you just need to sand it better. If its shiny...keep on sanding.
The paint should have no issues sticking assuming its properly prepped. Auto paint uses 2 kinds of adhesion. Chemical, and mechanical. Chemical is exactly like its sounds, the chemical bond between the different layers, and the mechanical bond is the scratch that you put into the bottom layer while sanding.
as for mechanical adhesion, judging by your picture the paint is still pretty shiny so its doubtful its sanded enough. If you're using a sealer of some sort a 320 grit should suffice. 400 to be safe. If not sealing, 800 should be about right. Check the tech sheets for the paint your using and they can give you everything you need to know.
As for chemical adhesion, be sure you arn't using anything with silicone in it. Silicone will cause instant fish eyes. If previous fish eye remover was used it won't effect your current paint as it should cure along with the hardeners in the paint.
in my opinion judging by that picture, you just need to sand it better. If its shiny...keep on sanding.
Last edited by nothingbetter; 08-05-2014 at 08:53 PM.
#4
Thanks for the input, I used 600 grit wet sand per paints guidelines. I will take it down even further, possibly to primer and see. It's really annoying as I spot tested an area after cleaning it with Comet and the paint stuck, however after washing the entire truck once again it didn't stick elsewhere. So back to the begining. And just think...All this just to sell it...
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taking it to primer will be a waste of time. a scratch is a scratch regardless of what layer its on.
Have you ever used armour all products on your vehicle? They are full of silicone (to make it shiny) so good luck getting anything to stick to it.
Have you ever used armour all products on your vehicle? They are full of silicone (to make it shiny) so good luck getting anything to stick to it.
#6
Nope no Armor All either. I bought the truck a few years ago wanting to repaint and never even waxed. One interesting Note...I pulled the tailgate access panel and painted it just fine on the inside factory primed service. The Factory door was replaced as was a front fender. The paint sticks to these items fine. As for taking down the original color to primer I guess that's opposed to priming over this chappy no stick base.
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