I recently purchased and installed a new oil pressure sensor. I thought this was the reason why the gauge read no pressure. I also believed it was the sensor because grounding the signal wire to the body, the gauge slowly began to raise, but only about half way through the gauge.
At this point Iam thinking about maybe pulling the sensor out and starting the engine to see if their is something in the path of the oil pressure sensor.
Anyone have suggestions on how to fix this issue?

 

Did you try putting an after market gauge on after you installed the new oil pressure sender? I'm assuming this is for a 22R-E? If you're going to try and purge the hole, ONE crank should do it. Don't think that I would try to start it!!! lol!

 

I've been through a bunch of senders after swapping in an SR5 gauge.. None of them really took me much past the bottom of the "normal" level for oil pressure.

The only way to know for sure is to use a mechanical gauge... It's worth checking out before starting.

Pull the plugs, turn the motor over with the starter. You should read about 15-20 psi of oil pressure.

 

sounds like a good idea, I'll hook up a mechanical gauge and go from there.
just need to find the right thread size. Probably an 8mm or somethin close.

 

At idle the oil pressure can be as low as 6psi on the 3.0's. Not sure what it would be for 22r's.

 

Thread size should be 1/8" npt. For 22R-E oil press at idle should be more than 4 PSI and at 3000rpm should be between 36-71 PSI.

 

It's not 1/8 NPT. An NPT thread will probably go in there, but damage things as it's tapered.
It's an odd BSP size, 1/8, I believe. Summit sells adapters and some gauge kits will come with the right adapter.

4psi at idle may be ok per the manual, but if you've got 4psi, you should be concerned... Decent rule of thumb is 10psi per 1k RPM.

 

I just swapped in the SR5 cluster on my 88 and have the exact same problem. Everything works fine with the exception of the oil pressure gauge. Mine rises when grounded but only goes up about 3/4 of the way to the top and the resistance checks out ok per the checks in the FSM. Have tried two different senders, a Beck/Arnley and a Toyota factory (part number 83520-35031). I noticed that the hole on the factory sensor was quite a bit smaller than the aftermarket one and thought I had found the problem. Still no go. Also checked my wiring which checks out ok. The hole in the block is 1/8" BSP and McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/ ) also carries adapters. The one you probably want is part number 4860K141 for $3.91. Sorry I couldn't offer a solution to the problem but am definitely interested in it before I spend another $100 on a replacement factory oil pressure gauge. If I have to do that, might as well just go aftermarket and get a real gauges.

 

There are at least 2 factory senders for the sr5 cluster, not including the non-sr5 pressure switch.
After market only seems to carry one.
FSM indicates a pulsed sending unit, which is a bit odd.. I gave up, I live with my bottom of the normal range reading and I installed an aftermarket electric guage that does both oil and fuel pressure.

 

My oil pressure gauge "works" on my SR5 cluster, but I didn't like going by lines. So, I added an after market gauge w/extra sender (1/8"x28 BSP-not NPT ). Works great, going to do the same thing with my temp gauge.

 

I've posted this before, but it's basically what I did to get fuel pressure and oil pressure out of the same gauge.

I just used an oil pressure sender on the fuel rail, tapped to 1/8NPT.

I have a little toggle to switch between the two...

 

you know what I noticed, is that the new sender I purchased from toyota is smaller than the original sender. But the sealed connector is the same?

 

My senders were about the same size but neither works. My mechanic thinks I still don't have the right sender and that it has something to do with the resistance in the sender. He's supposed to try and find me the right one. If he does, I'll advise.