This last weekend I put in a clutch kit and rear main, but my truck still leaks. I found that the oil pan gasket is also faulty. I think the rear seal plate is also leaking, but I could not get it out without taking off the oil pan. Also, my crank has 2 nice grooves from the rear main. My plan is to pull the tranny (which I know how to do now) and the front diff (which I have never done). Then pull the oil pan, rear main, and rear seal plate. Then install a speedy sleeve on the crank and then reinstall new rear main and oil pan gasket.

How difficult is it to remove the front diff? Do the axle flanges just unbolt and then come apart? How are the vacuum lines held on (ADD)? Anything I am missing?

 

You don't have to completly remove the front diff to get at the oil pan IIRC. You can just undo the mounts and lower it down leaving it bolted to the CV joints.

The vacuum lines are held on by friction, they just slide on/off (not easily though!).

 

IIRC?

Thanks for the info. I'll have the driveshaft off to get the tranny out. Are the lines long enough to drop it with them connected? Or do I just remove the lines and the 3 bolts then drop it however much I need to?

Thanks again!

 

It will be probably best to remove the diff, with all the work you plan on doing under there. I have a 4" lift, which makes it a little easier to work on, but that diff still gets in the way.

 

Yeah....it's a biotch.

Best to just remove the vac lines, too. Just mark them with tape or paint pen so you don't confuse them. They can get frozen on there, so don't rip them, of course. Soften them up with a little WD and use a pair of pliers to gently twist them where they connect to the hard line. Get them to start moving before you try to pull them off.....if they are frozen.

 

So disconnect the cv's too? If I can get the pan off, that should give me enough room to clean the block, and then apply the gasket/silicone to the pan.

 

i took my entire oilpan off and replaced the oilpump on my 1990 4x4 runner without removing the trans or diff. just took off the 4 bottom bolts ont the engine to trans and the two motor mounts and jacked her up. yeah you got to wiggle, but it was raining that day and i had no desire to go outside and work on her, so i did it in the garage....

 

You should have enough clearance with the 3 main mounting bolts removed and the diff lowered. You might have to remove the front crossmember to allow further drop. The suspension might bow in a little once you remove it, so be prepaired for a tight fit getting back in.

Avoid remove the diff from the cv joints. They are an absolute PAIN in the arse to get back in without 2 people...

I didnt bother to mark the lines, they stayed in the correct position after I removed them I had to cut them off, I didnt have the patience to remove them slowley.


IIRC = If I remember correctly.

 

Thanks for the info. So leave the cv's on. Cut off the lines if they are not cooperating. The unbolttt..

 

Make sure you got enough slack in the lines to re-connect them But you got the just of it...

 

Couple more things....

1. I ordered a rear main speedy/kwik sleeve for the crank. Any suggestions on how to install it without crushing it?

2. Should I disconnect the cv snap rings on the end (outside of hub) to prevent separating the cv's when I drop the diff?

3. My oil pan gasket came in yesterday. There are 2 identical cork gaskets in the box. Why?

Thanks ahead of time.

 

3. Maybe they accidentally mail you two. I would have used RTV sealant personally and wouldn't bother with the gasket, but I'm sure it will work.

 

Any others?

 

 

No idea why they sent you two gaskets. FWIW, the Toyota spec for oil pan gasket is FIPG (form in place gasket aka RTV)

 

When we did the oil pan gasket on my g/f's runner, the manual said there was no gasket available. A call to the local parts shop had one on the way... We used a nice light even coat of RTV on the pan and then placed the gasket on top of that, and a little more RTV on top of that, made a very nice seal.

Don't worry about the snap rings. Just keep a jack under the diff to controll how low it goes and to keep some of the weight off of the cv joints. Remember, the cv joints can handle the same angle as when its installed vs hanging down.... (did that make sence?)

 

sorry to change the subj, but how hard was it to remove the tranny. I have a 95 and the rear main is leaking. don't wanna pay $980 (actual quote) to have the seal fixed. I looked through the FSM but it didnt really give detailed destructions for how to do it. Any help is appreciated.

 

The auto is pretty big. Make sure you rent a tranny jack.

Im not too sure how the process of removing the auto goes, so I will let somone else chime in on that....

 

After I ordered the gasket, I looked in my chilton and fsm and saw that there is no gasket. I think I will do what you said w/ the rtv and gasket.

The cv hint actually makes sense. If the cv is bent down at 10 degrees, it can be bent up at 10 degrees.

Any pointers on the speedy sleeve?

(thanks jay!)

 

I would NOT use both RTV and a gasket. I personally think the RTV (FIPG) alone is the right way to do the job, but, if you insist on using a gasket, I would not use RTV. It only "lubes" the interface and allows the gasket to squeeze out as you tighten the bolts. If you do use a gasket, you can use a gasket adhesive (much tackier and thinner than RTV).