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Official "86-95 Pickup IFS lift thread" READ FIRST
10-31-2010, 01:28 PM
#42
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I've got a 91 pickup, 4wd.
I don't want to SAS.
I'm over 230k on the stock suspension, and its pretty worn. I'd like to replace all 4 shocks, the steering damper, the torsion bars, the leaf springs, the swaybar bushings, the ball joints, and the various bushings and bits in between. Ideeally there'd be a kit, or at least a single vendor, that I could get all those bits from. The closest I've come is NWOR, (no shipping, I can drive there easy), but they're getting a lot of negative press on here...
I'm not looking for a lift for clearances. I'm looking to do a modest upgrade when I do a mandatory replacement of my current suspension..I've heard the stock T bars don't like big tires, and I have 32's. Can someone recommend a vendor? A kit? There are so many choices and I am very new to this game. Any ideas with a modest budget, say 1500 max?
I don't want to SAS.
I'm over 230k on the stock suspension, and its pretty worn. I'd like to replace all 4 shocks, the steering damper, the torsion bars, the leaf springs, the swaybar bushings, the ball joints, and the various bushings and bits in between. Ideeally there'd be a kit, or at least a single vendor, that I could get all those bits from. The closest I've come is NWOR, (no shipping, I can drive there easy), but they're getting a lot of negative press on here...
I'm not looking for a lift for clearances. I'm looking to do a modest upgrade when I do a mandatory replacement of my current suspension..I've heard the stock T bars don't like big tires, and I have 32's. Can someone recommend a vendor? A kit? There are so many choices and I am very new to this game. Any ideas with a modest budget, say 1500 max?
I'm in pretty much the same position as you, all my stock suspension components could use replacing but I'm more concerned with ride quality than anything. Though a couple of extra inches clearance would be nice.
What exactly is the problem that other people seem to be having with NWOR? Their service or their products?
12-18-2010, 10:01 PM
#43
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I am in the market to lift my truck. I know all of the pros and cons of an IFS lift and an SAS. with that said I have two questions. First, I have checked out chaosfab and blazeland which doesnt drop the diff. I don't like the design and prefer the way Downeys kit was designed. Are there any other companies which make IFS kits without dropping the diff.? Also, I am debating on either 33's or 35's with the lift. I have bobbed my bed and still feel I need the increased diameter of the tires for crawlin and the lift for breakover angles. So what are the fairly standard sizes seen out on trails, 33's or 35's? I only ask this of the veterans who have been wheelin long enough to know when too big a tire is in fact, too big. I plan to regear, etc.
12-18-2010, 11:38 PM
#44
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Blazeland doesn't drop the diff as far as i know..it's all just control arms.
33's or 35's. is the extra 1" of lift worth it?
33" tires are usually around 32..and 35's are usually around a 34..lol
i heard that NWOR service sucks..
OneRainDog....the difference in the Blazeland kit and the BJ spacers would be night and day...the blazeland kit is a Long Travel kit, and the BJ spacers is just that.....a spacer...
the rear lift from trail gear would be a great match to the blazeland front..(3" lift from trail-gear) but would be quite high for BJ spacers.
Blocks aren't all that bad..but over time they'll will mess up your rear springs
33's or 35's. is the extra 1" of lift worth it?
33" tires are usually around 32..and 35's are usually around a 34..lol
i heard that NWOR service sucks..
OneRainDog....the difference in the Blazeland kit and the BJ spacers would be night and day...the blazeland kit is a Long Travel kit, and the BJ spacers is just that.....a spacer...
the rear lift from trail gear would be a great match to the blazeland front..(3" lift from trail-gear) but would be quite high for BJ spacers.
Blocks aren't all that bad..but over time they'll will mess up your rear springs
12-19-2010, 10:43 AM
#45
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Blazeland long arms don't alter the front diff location. With long arms installed the ride height will be aprox. 3" higher than stock. I found 33" tires to be the optimal size. 35 work well with the 4" Drop Bracket / Blazeland long arm combo. Fiberglass fenders, hammering and trimming at the firewall, and body lifts are possible considerations to fine tune the tire fitment.
12-22-2010, 12:40 PM
#46
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I'm looking at doing a 2inch lift with bj spacers.I have a zuk mod in the back right now, could I just put blocks under the rear leafs and the spacers up front? Would I have to worry about the Zuk mod or would it be just fine
02-20-2011, 07:19 AM
#47
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...BUMP...
BlazeN8 -
i'd love to get rid of my bracket lift, broke it 2x. it works though. what is the overall width of your long arm system after install? i've seen them where the tires are WAY wide in the front and stock width in the rear. nice stuff though.
BlazeN8 -
i'd love to get rid of my bracket lift, broke it 2x. it works though. what is the overall width of your long arm system after install? i've seen them where the tires are WAY wide in the front and stock width in the rear. nice stuff though.
03-22-2011, 07:29 PM
#49
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Okay, I'll post in here even though it makes me look like a total n00b.
I've got a 93 Xtracab, original real leafs with 143k on the clock that are saggy.
I probably won't put another 25-30k on the truck before it rusts out from under me.
Can I get away with just an AAL and new rear shocks? Do I risk damaging the OEM leaf springs and/or creating a safety concern?
Under $300 for new rear shocks and a AAL without having to mess with the shackles, which I am sure are rusted/seized into place seems to be a lot better than $300 just for a set of OME rear leafs.
I've got a 93 Xtracab, original real leafs with 143k on the clock that are saggy.
I probably won't put another 25-30k on the truck before it rusts out from under me.
Can I get away with just an AAL and new rear shocks? Do I risk damaging the OEM leaf springs and/or creating a safety concern?
Under $300 for new rear shocks and a AAL without having to mess with the shackles, which I am sure are rusted/seized into place seems to be a lot better than $300 just for a set of OME rear leafs.
03-23-2011, 06:22 AM
#50
Registered User
Well my 2 cents...
I'm using helper springs for now...brought the back end up some and I can carry a load now. I will be installing 63" Chevy's soon, I hope before winter. I can get both springs for under $100.00 from a local yard and get a conversion kit for around $100.00.
That'll give you a bit of a lift as well as a softer ride and still give the load bearing support.
http://www.roadlessgear.com/Merchant...SU/TOY-CSP-001
.
I'm using helper springs for now...brought the back end up some and I can carry a load now. I will be installing 63" Chevy's soon, I hope before winter. I can get both springs for under $100.00 from a local yard and get a conversion kit for around $100.00.
That'll give you a bit of a lift as well as a softer ride and still give the load bearing support.
http://www.roadlessgear.com/Merchant...SU/TOY-CSP-001
.
Last edited by Lumpy; 03-23-2011 at 06:26 AM.
03-24-2011, 08:39 AM
#51
Registered User
toytech.com about $400 for a 2" lift with torsion bar adjustment about 1.75" without, comes with BJ spacers AAL and procomp shocks, took me about 4 hours with some cutting required and i run 31s for power reasons but could easily fit 33s probly even 35 with some hammering!
04-20-2011, 06:58 AM
#53
Registered User
I dont know if im doing something wrong with mine or not...just seems like everyone in here goes to the extreme....but for the people who want a simple, quick, easy lift, why not use the block and bj spacer method??? I put this on my 87 runner and its working find. had to install some wheel spacers to clear the tires from the upper a-arms, but overall...simple, cost effective kit. now, mind you, i got the 3" blocks and ubolts from a guy at my shop that i convinced to buy a yota cuz they are badass and the PO had a 3" block kit in the back for leveling reasons when they hauled their 5th wheel (dont know why they bought a toyo pickup for that but anyways) he didnt like it and traded me my factory ubolts and mounts for his lift. bout the bj spacers for $100 off ebay as well as my wheel spacers.
04-20-2011, 07:39 AM
#54
Registered User
3" blocks are very unsafe and add no spring travel (but niether does AAL's.) And some people have no nuts to cut at their rig and have to use a 4" bracket lift to clear 33's.
04-20-2011, 08:45 AM
#55
Registered User
just curious, and not doubting your expertise at all, but what makes them unsafe??? i have heard that here and there but never understood what the difference was...surface area the springs sit on is the same...i cant think of why there would be additional stress on the leafs...just curious...cuz im runnin 3" blocks on my dd...only take it back and forth to work and back and forth from the mud trail...
04-20-2011, 08:54 AM
#56
Registered User
Axle Wrap is magnified is the biggest problem. Meaning it's easier to snap the spring at the mount. Also some have been know just to spit themselves out of the u-bolts. Now in the front springs, IIRC in most states it's not even legal to run them.
04-20-2011, 10:10 AM
#57
Registered User
ooohhhhh....meaning there is a higher tendency for the axle to be pulled out from under the truck then right? that would make sense...trailing arms fix that though ya??
05-08-2011, 08:40 PM
#58
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Any steering upgrades for IFS fronts? I have been checking around and there are only kits to improving SFA fronts. I contacted allproffroad and aparently the hysteer option only works for SFA and some Drop Brackets with some custom work. I know the torsion twist and BJ spacer crowd has gotta be running some kind of improvement on the steering. My mechanic also tells me its a weak spot on the truck. Lowrangeoffroad sells some stock beefed replacement parts but is there any setup you guys running out there improving the stock steering or even better a whole replacement for IFS?
05-09-2011, 01:52 AM
#59
Registered User
Check out AxleIKE's build thread. Also run a quick search, I know I started a steering thread a wile back with some good info in it. Also look into the FJ80 Tie Rod upgrade (AxleIKE has them I believe.) NWOR or Front Range (I forget) I believe still has the idler arm brace. Or you can use the best option a $300+ Total chaos idler arm which is the weakest part of the whole setup. Run a few searches alot of info on IFS steering.
05-18-2011, 02:04 AM
#60
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Axle Torqe/Rotation
Tracktion bars welded to the axles allowing minimum flex using the truck frame as a stopper. Install rubber stoppers on the fram at the contact point of the opposite end of the Traction bar. Eliminates axle twist when torqe is applied to drive train.
Similar Traction bars can be installed on the fron IFS axle with custom made Traction bars avoiding tortion bars, drive shafts and highest ground clearance.
Scoham
Similar Traction bars can be installed on the fron IFS axle with custom made Traction bars avoiding tortion bars, drive shafts and highest ground clearance.
Scoham
