Thanks man,same to you.

 

Nice video on Fusible Link. Chris Fix's Soldering job is not the prettiest but it will give you an idea.


Ideally, you'd want to use a parallel crimp connector, not a butt crimp connector. The parallel one makes sure the wires you are splicing are touching each other.
For wire gauges 12 and thicker, I strongly suggest an 80-Watt soldering iron. However, don't use it for small parts/components or near materials that could easily melt or burn.

PARALLEL CRIMP CONNECTOR:

 

SO,you use the parallel crimp connector over the sodered wires?

 

Both if possible. Parallel crimp for mechanical and electrical integrity. Solder to fill in all the voids that will improve electrical connection AND protect from battery acid and fumes that lead to corrosion. Finally, heat shrink over the splice.
Some people say overkill but that's how clean I do my connections to help ensure my 31-year old truck will be the last truck I'll ever need.

Since I could not find a parallel crimp for reasonable price, I improvised. For my 6AWG wire with awg10 FL, I used the barrel part of an AWG6 ring terminal.

 

Stuck again at this writing,just a click when turning the key.Been trying to find someone to work on the relay fix to no avail so far.Hope it starts in the morning.....Rad4Runner on your 7/6/2017 post that shows the retrofit of the relay..do any wires have to be cut,or is it all change out and plug into the starter relay?

 

Just a thought based on what mine was doing. Two (of 3) of my problems in that wiring area was a weak FL wire. A couple times when it would not start I had moved the wiring around to inspect it and after that the truck would start. 2 wires were only attached by thin strands of the wire. The FL wire at it connection where it was nearing the fuse box and the battery ground cable. The "culprit" in the big ground cable was that the battery was not held down so it could move and work the wire to the point of almost being severed. I think the battery was doing similar work on the FL wire.

Your shut off while going up an incline could be similarly explained by the battery moving poorly connected wire. Just a thought

 

Do EXACTLY as shown below. About $10 materials cost. Again, ask Griswald.



Suggested Install Layout:


[/INDENT]

keywords:
click-only, no-start, no crank, no start, no-crank, simple, simplified, concise, simple, quick

 

Rad4Runner,on Griswalds picture,what gauge is the white wire he used?After the no start just click yesterday afternoon at 1 P.M. my friend came by at 8 last night and it started right up,ha.ha.I'm sure with this one wire fix Ill find someone to help me out.Thanks a million for all your time and replies....Dave.

 

Most welcome, Mldave.
Re: wire gauge, pls see my posted pictures thoroughly.

 

Rad4Runner,Another afternoon of click,no start..or was it clunk and no start..the heat has gotten to me so I couldn't tell which.Gave the pics,diagrams and parts needed info to a mining engineer friend and he said he'd make up the wire when he has a chance.Wasn't sure of the length,but told him about three feet of 12 gauge.He said 10 gauge was better,but I insisted on 12 gauge.We'll see what he does and comes up with.

 

Yes about 3 feet of 12AWG will be good. 12AWG with 30-amp fuse is perfect for around 12Amps needed to energize the starter solenoid.

 

Bought the parts this morning with my friend.He bought a different kind of fuse holder,the kind that takes a glass fuse.He likes to poor boy everything as he calls it,so I hope the wire and parts come out O.K.Only bought two feet of 12 gauge as he said the fuse holder wires added to the two feet of 12 gauge will be enough.Bought these parts at the local Ace hardware.What size goes on the the 80 amp fuse post in the engine bay fuse box?I have the 14 gauge fusible link and just need the 10 gauge wire and the size of the ring stud that hooks up to the engine bay fuse box.

 

Installed the new wire setup this morning in a shady spot,while it was still cool outside.Hopefully this is the final fix for the click no crank.No one's ever posted anywhere that it didn't work.Thanks again Rad4Runner and all others for their comments.

 

Dave/RAD,

To confirm,

have you guys ruled out the relay as the culprit?
Will a jump get it to start, when it acts up?

 

Griswald,.Did Rad4Runners final fix this morning.Before on three different occasions when I just had a click I did get a jump and it started right up.Seems to have more umph when I turn the key now.Hopefully this will fix it for good.

 

You're most welcome, Dave.

I'm afraid that inline fuse-holder may not be as water-resistant as the standard automotive ATO blade type fuse. Make sure you wrap it well with electrical tape.
Not sure what size the screw is in the fuse block that the fusible link wire goes on. Just get 1/4 inch ring terminal and make adjustment is needed.

 

Will wrap that up in the morning when it's cool outside.Thanks again Rad4Runner for all your patience and help....and I bought two extra fuses in case the inline one blows out.

 

Rad4Runner,now onto the wire from the positive battery post to the engine bay 80 amp fuse.Tried to solder the 14 gauge FL wire to the 10 gauge but my hands shake so much the solder joint came out in blobs.So I connected the two wires with a 10 gauge butt connector and wrapped it with electrical tape.Will the two different wire sizes hold up in that butt connector?Haven't added the ring stud connector onto the 10 gauge as yet either.Waiting for some real cool weather to take off the engine bay fuse box.

 

You should be OK, Dave, as long as you crimped them well. Just watch it. When you have load on the circuit, like headlights, blower, etc. Voltage at the fuses should be same as batt voltage.

 

Rad4Runner,are there any other none soldered options like running a single 10 gauge wire from the positive battery post to the 80 amp fuse?