Since I've had my 4runner it has had problem with clutch chatter on engagement, sometimes bad sometimes not so bad.

Since It is our 3rd car and we don't drive it much I have not worried too much about it. Since summer is coming I want to take the top off and drive it so time for a new clutch.

I ordered Marlins heavy duty clutch, flywheel, shifter seat and clutch bolts and a new rear main seal from Toyota. I bought the $100.00 tranny jack from Harbor Freight and pulled the trans yesterday.

I knew what to expect and wasn't suprised to find the old rear main seal leaking. The pressure plate and flywheel are very glazed and the bellhousing was full of black goo.

I thought you might like to see some pics...





I installed the main seal today and now I am just waiting for my parts from Marlin.

When I bought my pickup the previous owner had just had a new clutch installed to the tune of $1200.00 I am wayyy too cheap for that.

I am looking forward to some smooth cruising soon. Now I just need to relace the timing chain, ect, ect

Robb

 

Good call on the marlin setup, you will love it!

I almost fell off my chair when the local shop quoted me 1200+ for a clutch job. I think with all my "performance" parts I did it for around 450. Yay for DIY

 

you thoroughly clean the flywheel and pressure plate to get rid of any oily residue from shipping. If you don't, you'll have another chattery clutch.

Also by the looks of it your trans input shaft seal should be replaced as well.

And don't put too much lube on the splines.

 

I guess having never had any standard trannies I don't understand how some stuff on the pressure plate will make it chatter. Won't all that oil and fluid just burn off when the plate engages the flywheel?

Sorry for the rookie question.

 

X2
Replace the transmission input seal..... $3 part will prevent the mess you got now.

Clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with and oil-free solvent; i.e. brake cleaner.

Have you put a new input shaft bearing in the crankshaft? No? You can pound the old one out by packing the bearing space, through the hole, with wheel bearing grease and finding a very close fitting socket turned backwards and pound the grease. It will drive out the bearing. CAREFULLY tap the new bearing in and DON'T hit the inner race. Smooth the crankshaft hole with emery paper just prior to putting in the new bearing.

My $0.02

 

Looks like he already took care of the old pilot bearing. Check out the bottom picture.

Rob

 

Good call on the input shaft seal, I hadn't thought of that.

New pilot bearing on the way also, I pulled the old one yesterday. I am a bicycle mechanic so I remove and install alot of sealed beaings.

Is there a trick for pulling the input shaft seal and installing the new one? I'm sure I can figure it out but will take any help available.

I will definitely clean the new flywheel and pressure plate before installing them. I used to have a 67 Camaro and replaced alot of clutches.

Thanks guys!
Robb

 

Good write up nmtoy. I like the way you documented it with pictures.

That pressure plate machined surface looks trashed. Do you have any pictures of the old clutch disk? Just curious what it looks like.

 

+1 on the Marlin clutch

 

The disc doesn't look that worn but it's really glazed. Once engaged it worked fine but taking off was a pain.

 

NMToy-

what shop do you work for in NM? I'm a fork tech for PUSH industries. If you've ever sent us suspension we've probably talked on the phone. Good job on the clutch. I'm about to tackle this one myself.

Eric

 

I finally got my parts from Marlin yesterday.

New flywheel

New HD pressure plate (sorry no pic)
New disc

New throwout bearing

New pilot bearing
New shifter seat
*New grade 8 clutch plate bolts* They only sent 4 and they are the wrong ones...

While my junk was apart I replaced the rear main seal and the input shaft seal. I also cleaned the trans, it was filthy!
The outside of the trans looked like this too!

Clean and ready to install.



I made a little tool to hold the flywheel while I torqued the flywheel and clutch bolts.


The trans went in really easily and since I was working alone I was really glad.

The clutch feels great, pedal pressure is about the same as before but it is quiet and smooth now.

The old shifter seat was not worn out but the new one is much tighter and there is no play in the shifter.

All in all everything went well. I didn't replace the master and slave cylinders since they are not leaking but will eventually do them anyway.

 

Very good work. Nice to see DIY'ers taking the time do it properly.

 

Don't lose your flywheel-holding tool. You'll use it again when you change the timing belt (or otherwise want to remove the harmonic balancer).

 

Really nice looking work nm...
i may have to do one of those myself some time in the future...

 

Timing chain will probably be in the next couple of weeks, I have an Enginebuilder timing kit in the garage. I will just do the breaker bar trick to get the crank bolt off.

Robb

 

Thanks!

It was well worth the time it took. I have been driving it around all day and it's really nice. I should have done it a long time ago.

I am very impressed with the Marlin clutch, no difference in pedal pressure but it feels very positive when engaged.

I left my sway bar off and there is no noticable difference in cornering at city speeds. (not like my runner handled like a sports car to begin with)

My runner went from no fun to drive to my favorite truck again!

Robb

 

i just took my trail rig for its virgin trail run and lost my clutch so i may be doing this!!!!

unless i s.a.s or do up my d.d..

great post and work...

now i know i have to remove tranny!

 

It's not hard but it is alot of work. I highly recommend the Marlin HD clutch kit and would do the rear main and input shaft seals as well.

good luck!

Robb