akwheeler, voltage is not the problem. Battery new and fully charged. Thanks for the input!

 

Obviously the voltage is not getting to the starter where it does the work, so good luck

 

1992 4X4 Toyota Pickup Extra Cab Deluxe. Goes almost anywhere. Even places you would not try! Great Truck!

 

22RE? 3.0? Yes, that info matters.

 

Lexor15 "1992 4X4 Toyota Pickup Extra Cab Deluxe. Goes almost anywhere. Even places you would not try! Great Truck! "


I'm your huckleberry, Where are we headed?

 

There is an access panel in the wheel well (behind the tire), no need to lay in snow.

I'm not 100% sure you have access to all the wires from here kind of depends on if you can get your arms in there with the probes..

Post the voltages they are relevant even if you only see a .5 volt difference.

 

 

OK. I bought a water-proof tarp and have started working on the starter, and inspected it. Lots of extensions needed! It looks like I might need to replace it, but I came inside to warm up, and will make a determination later. 1992 4X4 Toyota Pickup Extra Cab with 3.0L engine.

 

Right!!!

 

Op we are trying to help you. Pulling the starter isn't that bad but its a shot in the dark without first checking to make sure you have the proper voltage at the starter hot lead to the solenoid. How would you know if pulling the starter and rebuilding it will solve the problem? It could be the starter but it could also be a ground, a corroded positive lead. I have seen bright contacts that had corrosion a few inches under the insulation. It showed up on a resistance test, but visually it was not a suspect.

I would probably not talk back to some of the people trying to help you. They have more knowledge than many toyota master mechanics on these rigs in some cases and are just trying to give you the best advice. We have seen it time and again when someone came in and said my truck does this so it must be this. In some cases they have thrown close to $1000 in replacing hard to find parts only to find out it was something simple.

As to your new battery it was suggested you check the voltage because a lot of us have seen "new" batteries that were bad. If you did check it be specific and say i tested the voltage at the battery and it was ...

After working on Toyota's for 20 years i have seen bad "new" alternators, brake calipers, starters, batteries, water pumps, oil pumps, etc.

We are just trying to give you good advice.

 

Amen!

Apparently he solved it with a new starter (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post52392430)

 

It's not just that the battery maybe undercharged, or not producing the required power (voltage+current).

The voltage reading at the posts, which you notice I ask for specifically most times, is relevant for comparing the voltage drop across a loose, dirt or damaged connection and wire.

He posted this in the other thread, I forget the title, about FL wire to distribution box.
Was the starter bad, were the brushes locked up or worn away, was the solenoid not making good contact, or was the supply wire loose or dirty? We will never know the answers to these.. because it wasn't tested..

The act of "replacing" the starter can and will mask loose/dirty ground to block, loose, dirty, or corroded solenoid activation wires, and a bad connection on the primary wire from the battery. Even moving these, wiggle/bumping, these wires is sometimes enough to get a good connection but it could reoccur again when you hit a pothole, speed bump, traverse a drain or curb....

Lexor if you still have that starter on hand and haven't yet returned it for core already. Please tear it down and check the brush length, note if they were gone or frozen, show us what the solenoid contact looks like. Do some test and measurements..

Like they said above we are here to help the next guy, you included. We really do appreciate the additions you made on that other thread about the fusible links...

 

Second that^^^

 

Just so you guys/gals know, I checked every single wire. All tested good, and looked to be in good shape. I replace any cable/wire that looks suspect, or tests bad. I refuse to screw around with that! I'm still surprised it was just the starter. I guess after 25+ years it was time for a new one. Go figure...

 

Co 94 PU, that was a remove and replace job. My truck is a daily driver. I literally drive it every day. I was not about to tear down the starter in the damn cold we have here right now. However, next time, I might go through a detailed tear down of some other part just for you!

 

Lexor, Just so you know, if you don't tell anyone what you have checked or done until post #34 you are going to get a ton of requests for you to check all of the stuff you have already done. I still haven't seen anywhere in this post where you even mentioned if you have a stick or an automatic, don't you think that matters when trying to diagnose a starting problem?
On another note: I was a mechanic at a Toyota stealership when your truck was brand new and I don't appreciate attitude when I am trying to help and struggling to get vital information about the problem. I am in no way a guru (I left the Toy store after 3 years) but I have a lot of diagnostic experience since then and was master certified for many years.

 

We always did disassembly of component parts at my shop. This tells wether you need part A/B, a full rebuild kit, or a refurbished unit. The part store should not and does not care if it is in pieces as long as it is all there, and in some cases mostly all there.

Continuity is no substitute for a voltage drop test. Anything that draws more than a few milliamp needs a voltage drop test. Voltage drop tests must be done with the circuit loaded.

 

akwheeler, you are right! I never did mention my truck has an ECT. My bad, but I was already on to the starter. Don't forget, I used to be a mechanic as well. I'm sorry if someone got offended. That was not my intent. I plan on being a productive member of this forum, to contribute when needed. We all have had strange things go wrong, and sometimes, it happens a different way. Fortunately, it never happened to me while I was way out in the badlands.

 

Here is a picture of my multi-meter, just to make some of you happy. I've had it for over 20 years, and yes, I know how to use it. I bought this one because it beat out a comparable Fluke model during testing. It was still expensive, but well worth the price!