No spark on 91 v6
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No spark on 91 v6
Hey i've been looking at a 91 toyota 4x4 v6. The guy was driving it daily and went to start it the other day and it wouldnt go. It has no spark. Is there anything known to go on the v6's to cause it to lose spark? I have a yard full of 22re parts but no v6 stuff. If theres something known to go i'd try to find the part and take it over to try.
#4
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If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, or maybe a blown fusible link or broken connection somewhere. This post has troubleshooting info for ignition switch power: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...53&postcount=5
If there IS power to the coil, possibly bad coil, bad igniter, bad signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection from the signal coil to ecu or from ecu to igniter. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .4 to .5 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 10,200 - 13,800 ohms (10.2k -13.8k ohms) COLD. Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test but still be bad. But it's not real common.
Check the resistance of all three signal coils in the distrib: they should all be 140-180 ohms cold. The green wire in the harness is the common (neg). Check for resistance between that and each of the others. (Of course, check on the wires that lead to the distrib.) Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projections should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in). Also try wiggling the distrib shaft side-to-side. There should be almost no movement. Check the distributor connector.
Try cleaning up the igniter ground (mounting bolts).
Does the check engine light come on when ignition is first turned on? If not, check for power on +B when ignition is on - that's your ecu power. If no, check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick. If the fuses are good and both are hot with ignition on, but no power on +B, then probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch. (If IGN fuse has no power when ignition on, then probably bad ignition switch (or connection to/from it); if IGN fuse has power, prob bad EFI main relay.)
If there IS power to the coil, possibly bad coil, bad igniter, bad signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection from the signal coil to ecu or from ecu to igniter. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .4 to .5 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 10,200 - 13,800 ohms (10.2k -13.8k ohms) COLD. Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test but still be bad. But it's not real common.
Check the resistance of all three signal coils in the distrib: they should all be 140-180 ohms cold. The green wire in the harness is the common (neg). Check for resistance between that and each of the others. (Of course, check on the wires that lead to the distrib.) Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projections should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in). Also try wiggling the distrib shaft side-to-side. There should be almost no movement. Check the distributor connector.
Try cleaning up the igniter ground (mounting bolts).
Does the check engine light come on when ignition is first turned on? If not, check for power on +B when ignition is on - that's your ecu power. If no, check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick. If the fuses are good and both are hot with ignition on, but no power on +B, then probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch. (If IGN fuse has no power when ignition on, then probably bad ignition switch (or connection to/from it); if IGN fuse has power, prob bad EFI main relay.)
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#8
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I dunno weather to buy it or see if the buddy cares if i take some parts over and try on it. I just wouldnt want to stick the coil or something on it and it work then him say hes gonna keep it.
I know the motor was replaced a couple years ago. The truck has 500 000 kms on it lol. Its solid the floors been patched. Has a small lift 33's and 31's on other rims to go with it. I can get it for $1000 mayby a little less, i just dont want to buy it not hearing it run and it be something major.
I know the motor was replaced a couple years ago. The truck has 500 000 kms on it lol. Its solid the floors been patched. Has a small lift 33's and 31's on other rims to go with it. I can get it for $1000 mayby a little less, i just dont want to buy it not hearing it run and it be something major.
#10
No spark on 91 V6 problem solved
I was driving on the highway at 60mph and my truck engine died. It didn't seize up, just lost power. I verified I had no spark to the plugs then checked fuses before having it towed home. I went through the troubleshooting procedure in the FSM and everything checked out good. Last step in the troubleshooting instructions is to replace the igniter. I had a spare so I gave that a try with no luck.
Further reading on the ignition circuit told me the ECU would not send a signal to the igniter to initiate a spark unless the ECU got a signal from the distributor indicating the engine was turning over. I pulled the distributor cap and cranked the engine, the rotor wasn't turning. My distributor shaft had seized up. The camshaft gear that drives the distributor pushed the gear down the distributor shaft until it cleared the camshaft gear. That little piece of information about checking the distributor rotation and signal is missing from the FSM troubleshooting flowchart. I picked up a rebuilt distributor from O'Reilly and I'm operational again. Just thought I would pass this on in case it helps someone else.
Who would have thought a distributor would seize up after only 417,000 miles......
Further reading on the ignition circuit told me the ECU would not send a signal to the igniter to initiate a spark unless the ECU got a signal from the distributor indicating the engine was turning over. I pulled the distributor cap and cranked the engine, the rotor wasn't turning. My distributor shaft had seized up. The camshaft gear that drives the distributor pushed the gear down the distributor shaft until it cleared the camshaft gear. That little piece of information about checking the distributor rotation and signal is missing from the FSM troubleshooting flowchart. I picked up a rebuilt distributor from O'Reilly and I'm operational again. Just thought I would pass this on in case it helps someone else.
Who would have thought a distributor would seize up after only 417,000 miles......
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