No power to door controls
03-18-2013, 01:10 PM
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No power to door controls
I have no power to anything controlled threw either doors. No locks, or windows,
I have located my door control module and i have no power leading to it. is there a breaker i should be looking for or another relay?? rear window operates fine and side view mirrors work fine......
I have located my door control module and i have no power leading to it. is there a breaker i should be looking for or another relay?? rear window operates fine and side view mirrors work fine......
03-18-2013, 01:14 PM
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The door lock ECU is powered through the gauge fuse. The power to the window motors is through the "Power" fuse. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2powersou.pdf There are no breakers. There are plenty of relays.
Have you checked these fuses?
Have you checked these fuses?
03-18-2013, 01:31 PM
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The door lock ECU is powered through the gauge fuse. The power to the window motors is through the "Power" fuse. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2powersou.pdf There are no breakers. There are plenty of relays.
Have you checked these fuses?
Have you checked these fuses?
i am running an 89, runner 3.0 EVI
photo (3).pdf
03-18-2013, 02:28 PM
#4
The door lock control relay is activiated with power thru the guage fuse. The primary power is provided by the "Power" fuse, number 14 in the page scope posted. This one is inside the drivers side kick panel, referer to the link scope provided.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
03-18-2013, 02:57 PM
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The fuse block in your picture is the one under the hood. (by the way; any idea what the inline fuse at the top of the picture goes to?)
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
03-18-2013, 03:24 PM
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I had this problem to, doors didn't work yet the sunroof and rear worked fine!!! The ANSWER is actually in the wiring that are in the door. So the black tube that you can see when the door is open connecting from the door to the main frame is wire housing and my hunch is that your wires have been broken due to the position and the constant wear of opening and closing the door. It's just been the years of use.
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
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03-18-2013, 06:25 PM
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There is a power chord that runs through there so don't go ruling that out just yet... If it's the actual computer piece that has the buttons on it (sorry, I can't thinking of the proper name for it) which just might be fried... that will cost $500...
03-18-2013, 07:26 PM
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I had this problem to, doors didn't work yet the sunroof and rear worked fine!!! The ANSWER is actually in the wiring that are in the door. So the black tube that you can see when the door is open connecting from the door to the main frame is wire housing and my hunch is that your wires have been broken due to the position and the constant wear of opening and closing the door. It's just been the years of use.
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
The fuse block in your picture is the one under the hood. (by the way; any idea what the inline fuse at the top of the picture goes to?)
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
The door lock control relay is activiated with power thru the guage fuse. The primary power is provided by the "Power" fuse, number 14 in the page scope posted. This one is inside the drivers side kick panel, referer to the link scope provided.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
03-18-2013, 10:48 PM
#11
Sorry didn't intend to shoot your idea down harshly or anything. I know there are wires there.
There are some differences between the 90's and 80's models.
Door control pin 8 is from the IGN fuse(Blue-yellow), pin 5 is from the Power window circuit breaker 20amp, pin 9 is the door and seatbelt warning, 10 is ground, 12 is output to window switches.
It doesn't say if the circuit breaker is the manual or automatic reset type.
03-19-2013, 07:29 AM
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Sorry didn't intend to shoot your idea down harshly or anything. I know there are wires there.
There are some differences between the 90's and 80's models.
Door control pin 8 is from the IGN fuse(Blue-yellow), pin 5 is from the Power window circuit breaker 20amp, pin 9 is the door and seatbelt warning, 10 is ground, 12 is output to window switches.
It doesn't say if the circuit breaker is the manual or automatic reset type.
There are some differences between the 90's and 80's models.
Door control pin 8 is from the IGN fuse(Blue-yellow), pin 5 is from the Power window circuit breaker 20amp, pin 9 is the door and seatbelt warning, 10 is ground, 12 is output to window switches.
It doesn't say if the circuit breaker is the manual or automatic reset type.
04-12-2013, 12:38 PM
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The door lock control relay is activiated with power thru the guage fuse. The primary power is provided by the "Power" fuse, number 14 in the page scope posted. This one is inside the drivers side kick panel, referer to the link scope provided.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
The fuse block in your picture is the one under the hood. (by the way; any idea what the inline fuse at the top of the picture goes to?)
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
I had this problem to, doors didn't work yet the sunroof and rear worked fine!!! The ANSWER is actually in the wiring that are in the door. So the black tube that you can see when the door is open connecting from the door to the main frame is wire housing and my hunch is that your wires have been broken due to the position and the constant wear of opening and closing the door. It's just been the years of use.
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
Sorry didn't intend to shoot your idea down harshly or anything. I know there are wires there.
There are some differences between the 90's and 80's models.
Door control pin 8 is from the IGN fuse(Blue-yellow), pin 5 is from the Power window circuit breaker 20amp, pin 9 is the door and seatbelt warning, 10 is ground, 12 is output to window switches.
It doesn't say if the circuit breaker is the manual or automatic reset type.
There are some differences between the 90's and 80's models.
Door control pin 8 is from the IGN fuse(Blue-yellow), pin 5 is from the Power window circuit breaker 20amp, pin 9 is the door and seatbelt warning, 10 is ground, 12 is output to window switches.
It doesn't say if the circuit breaker is the manual or automatic reset type.
04-12-2013, 12:41 PM
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The door lock control relay is activiated with power thru the guage fuse. The primary power is provided by the "Power" fuse, number 14 in the page scope posted. This one is inside the drivers side kick panel, referer to the link scope provided.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
The fuse block in your picture is the one under the hood. (by the way; any idea what the inline fuse at the top of the picture goes to?)
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
I had this problem to, doors didn't work yet the sunroof and rear worked fine!!! The ANSWER is actually in the wiring that are in the door. So the black tube that you can see when the door is open connecting from the door to the main frame is wire housing and my hunch is that your wires have been broken due to the position and the constant wear of opening and closing the door. It's just been the years of use.
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
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04-12-2013, 12:46 PM
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The door lock control relay is activiated with power thru the guage fuse. The primary power is provided by the "Power" fuse, number 14 in the page scope posted. This one is inside the drivers side kick panel, referer to the link scope provided.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
Did you check with the ignition switch turned on? You only get the power from the guage fuse with the ignition turned on.
Doors, windows, the "better" diagram is in the door lock section.
The fuse block in your picture is the one under the hood. (by the way; any idea what the inline fuse at the top of the picture goes to?)
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
As Co_94_pu suggests, you need to look at the one by your left ankle. Unfortunately, the manual the three of us are looking at is for a '93, and there may be differences. I'll still bet the fuses have the same "name."
I know you've check the fuses, but what co_94_pu is suggesting is that you do it with a multimeter (with the key on). Test for 12v on both sides of each fuse. Why? First, a fuse can blow in a way that is not visible, or it can actually crack internally with age. Second, the upstream connection may be no good; no power in, no power out. But most importantly, you could have a good fuse that isn't seated properly. This is an easy check, with inexpensive tools.
Finally, don't ever say you checked "all" the fuses. You don't know where "all" the fuses are (I sure don't), and we don't care that "all" your fuses are good. We only care about two of them; if you actually checked them, you can jot down their names.
I had this problem to, doors didn't work yet the sunroof and rear worked fine!!! The ANSWER is actually in the wiring that are in the door. So the black tube that you can see when the door is open connecting from the door to the main frame is wire housing and my hunch is that your wires have been broken due to the position and the constant wear of opening and closing the door. It's just been the years of use.
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
So with that said, get some screw drivers out, good flashlight, pop the door panel off, disconnect the wire from the main window/lock console, pop the black tube/wire housing off, oh and disconnect the wires from the fuze area from behind a panel by your left foot and basically get that bunch of wires out. It's pretty straight forward once you get going. Just be gentle with stuff given it's all wires, plastic housing and such.
So now that you have that line of wires out you have 2 options: Get your saudering kit (or however you spell it) and start cutting the area of the wires that are cut and replace it with new wire. Or option two... go to Toyota and pay probably $300, if not more for all new wires. I asked them to do it and they said it'd be a couple hundred so most obviously I didn't go with that option and did it with my grandfather.
Anyways I really hope this works out for you because I had this happen to me in the summer, not fun. Good Luck!
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