mrddk92

Ok so i got my truck all back together after a top-end rebuild and i go to drive it and it will barely go. Like no power at all. It seems like the timing may be off but with the light its at 10btdc and is idling great. i got anew timing belt and will be putting it on tomorrow but i was wondering if the tps could be causing this. i rotated it and it doesnt change much. Please give me some ideas because all i can think of is trhe timing. Everything else seems to be working great.

TNRabbit

Did you move the TPS?

Also, did you replaced the knock sensor pigtail? Sounds EXACTLY like knock sensor issues. Did you pull the ECU codes?

mrddk92

I got a code 14 today so I think I may need a new ignitor. But would it idle, if it had a bad ignitor or just not start?

buckz6319

mrddk92...X2 on the knock sensor....and here are a couple of things to check before you go buy a igniter..( per Abe First, I'd look at all the connections to the coil, igniter AND ECU checking for any moisture, corrosion or even terminals that have backed out of the plug slightly. Check the coil for good connections and NO GREASE ANYWHERE!!!!
also....their is a section in this article below on how to test the igniter....I'm not sure if it is a true test but it helped me some

Symptom: No Start.

Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.

The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.

Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal

Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.

The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.

mrddk92

Wow thanks for thi info. I actually figured out that it was my tps out of adjustment. I put it on backwards beacause I thought it was in the way of thethrootle stop screw lever.

TNRabbit

Sorry, but I just have to laugh my @$$ off about that one.... HAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAH AHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHH AHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHH AHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAH HAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAH AHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHA HHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAH HAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHAH AHAHHHAHAHAHAHHA

buckz6319

glad you figured it out...and not to poke fun at you....but how did you manage to put that tps on backwards

mrddk92

Well I think that on some it is supposed to be pointed towards the plenum. I was referencing my brothers 95 runner and it was pointed that way. But when I had the TB off I couldn't get it adjusted to spec so I turned it around and was able to get it right. I wonder if it can be put on either way...I could have just had all the pins wrong when trying to read the resistances....idk lol. I did feel a little dumb when I finally got it working lol

buckz6319

well just remember that some are pointing to the plenum and some are pointing to the drives fender, and adjusting that tps is a little intimindating at first (it was for me) but it is possible to do if you can read a multimeter.
If you can't read a multimeter then you could try this....it may get you close to the proper

You could try loosening the TPS, with the jumper inserted(TE&TE1) and the engine runnign, and rotating it the same direction as the throttle opens, and see if you can find a spot where the idle suddenly changes, then lock it down

Guardian_Saint

Thanks buckz for the tip on the TPS. I accidently took mine out and tought it need adjustment. So today I did the same way as you have explain and it run much better now w/o that sluggish ride I been having for the last three days... Now I can go get that buck to fill my tag...