newer style - tps connector 22re
#1
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newer style - tps connector 22re
Hi,
I know this technically should be posted in the classifieds, but I thought more people would see this if I posted it here.
Looking to buy a tps connector - newer style (not the sqaure kind). mine is cracked and is not able to be repinned. Will pay for shipping.
Thanks in advance
I know this technically should be posted in the classifieds, but I thought more people would see this if I posted it here.
Looking to buy a tps connector - newer style (not the sqaure kind). mine is cracked and is not able to be repinned. Will pay for shipping.
Thanks in advance
#2
Registered User
Should be able to find one of those new either in a pigtail version or crimp your own for less than 20 bucks. There should be a five digit number somewhere on the connector which you can can plug into good old google. I believe toyota uses 90980-XXXXX, 90980 = electrical connector & the XXXXX = the number off connector.
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ev13wt (01-10-2019)
#3
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Thread Starter
Cool, I'll poke around some more. The ones I was seeing last night were all above 30, ha. This one looks promising though - https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...xoCO34QAvD_BwE
Need to go out to the garage to confirm part no. yet
Need to go out to the garage to confirm part no. yet
#4
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Update: here's the one thats needed for the newer style tps connector. part number 90980 10711
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...BoCyaEQAvD_BwE
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...BoCyaEQAvD_BwE
#5
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Once you have the part number (good job!), you can just use google to find alternate forms.
The "pigtail" repair connectors will work, but they are tedious to install and splices in the middle of electrical signal lines is never a good choice. I prefer simply re-crimping new pins onto the existing wires. https://www.ebay.com/p/Toyota-1jz-4-...TE/19015140887 Often, the only part that is "broken" is the plastic connector body. Remove the pins from the broken body, install them into a new body, and your electrical part is OEM.
The "pigtail" repair connectors will work, but they are tedious to install and splices in the middle of electrical signal lines is never a good choice. I prefer simply re-crimping new pins onto the existing wires. https://www.ebay.com/p/Toyota-1jz-4-...TE/19015140887 Often, the only part that is "broken" is the plastic connector body. Remove the pins from the broken body, install them into a new body, and your electrical part is OEM.
#6
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Thread Starter
Once you have the part number (good job!), you can just use google to find alternate forms.
The "pigtail" repair connectors will work, but they are tedious to install and splices in the middle of electrical signal lines is never a good choice. I prefer simply re-crimping new pins onto the existing wires. https://www.ebay.com/p/Toyota-1jz-4-...TE/19015140887 Often, the only part that is "broken" is the plastic connector body. Remove the pins from the broken body, install them into a new body, and your electrical part is OEM.
The "pigtail" repair connectors will work, but they are tedious to install and splices in the middle of electrical signal lines is never a good choice. I prefer simply re-crimping new pins onto the existing wires. https://www.ebay.com/p/Toyota-1jz-4-...TE/19015140887 Often, the only part that is "broken" is the plastic connector body. Remove the pins from the broken body, install them into a new body, and your electrical part is OEM.
I just ordered that kit I most recently posted - hoping that it isn't already assembled.
Just curious, why is splicing a bad idea, heat? I trust you, am just curious.
#7
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What's wrong with knots? If you were climbing El Capitan, would you like a continuous piece of rope, or one spliced together with knots?
A good knot can develop close to 90% of the rope strength, but it's one more point of failure. In a high vibration area (your engine), a splice is more likely to break than continuous wire. Also, even though you carefully used heat-shrink to protect the splice, it's one more area for water intrusion. And your difficult-to-move wire harness now has four fat spots making it even harder to move.
On the other hand, if you do a crappy job crimping the terminals, you might be better off having a professional crimp them and you just TRY to do a good job splicing pigtails.
Done carefully, a splice is fine. But why risk it when you don't have to?
A good knot can develop close to 90% of the rope strength, but it's one more point of failure. In a high vibration area (your engine), a splice is more likely to break than continuous wire. Also, even though you carefully used heat-shrink to protect the splice, it's one more area for water intrusion. And your difficult-to-move wire harness now has four fat spots making it even harder to move.
On the other hand, if you do a crappy job crimping the terminals, you might be better off having a professional crimp them and you just TRY to do a good job splicing pigtails.
Done carefully, a splice is fine. But why risk it when you don't have to?
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