partyboy231

ok so i have searched ad found nothing, so flame suit on
i have gotten ahold of a 1990 single cab pickup with a 22re in it
the truck will start and run on starting fluid, and sometimes will fire up on its own, but immediatly die. the guy that had it before me had the fuel pump wired up on a switch for some odd reason, and the efi relay was toast, so replaced the replay, re-wired the circut opening relay (pump still on switch). has new plugs, wires, car, rotor. i am totally lost as to what is the problem with this truck, any help greatly appreciated, need my truck going!
please and thank you!

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the EFI fuse?

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Could also be a bad fuel pump. Try hitting the tank with a big rubber hammer or something and see if it starts, it sometimes works.

partyboy231

checked it, its fine, also getting 12V at the proper terminals of the efi relay except for the #1 terminal (B-Y wire) which was dead and rewired, relay functions fine

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

No codes? It could also be a position sensor problem not allowing the injectors to fire. Check to see if there is fuel pressure getting to the fuel rail, and if the fuel pump is turning on with the key on. If it is a sensor issue, there will be a code for it, if no code, it is most likely on the fuel pump side.

scope103

Not required here.

The usual reason for that hack is a problem with the VAF (Volume Air Flow Meter). The Fuel pump relay closes with the starter signal, but when you release the key the relay is held closed by the VAF signal (note the two windings in the relay).

You really want to fix that; if you get in an accident that breaks a fuel line you want the fuel pump to shut off pronto.

Are you using the switch now? When you turn it "on" do you hear the fuel pump?

partyboy231

yea fuel pump is working like a champ
would the coolant temp sensor have anything to do with it because it looks like it is about to fall apart. also on top of the motor i have two plugs unhooked and have no idea what they go to, one is grey and looks like a fuel injector clip, all injectors are hooked up, has a black with a red stripe and the other wire is blue, the other is a two pin with a brown with black wire and a green with white wire on it, both look to be coming from the loom that the vsv's and cold start come from

fork

if it's the coolant temp sensor i'm pretty sure it will throw codes (22). I just replaced one which was being held together by electrical tape. i accidentally bumped it and it separated and threw a code, ran like crap but still ran. those connectors up top are for emissions VSVs which im guessing no longer exist on your 22re. at least on mine the vsv's are annoyingly mounted on top of the valve cover. if those are missing i'd be checking for vacuum leaks and misrouted vacuum lines

does this still have EGR or was it deleted?

partyboy231

as far as i can tell it still has egr, if it still works is another case
but for some reason just a second ago the truck was starting and running, like crap but still running, soon as it starts to warm it dies, now it wont start at all, i think my truck is haunted

quiggs12

This happened to me and it was because the cold start injector was not getting power. Normally this is a start injector time switch issue but that worked for me too. I just had to clean up terminals and away she went... (on to other problems...)

partyboy231

ok checked out the cold start timer and it is falling apart, new one on order. just to see if it would start i jumped 12V straight to the cold start inj. and it started!
now it will start and run but sounds like my lawn mower, when you give it any more than like 1/4 throttle, it stutters and stalls, and i tried to take it up my steep driveway, no power as soon as i got on the hill, on the flat ground it is still kinda pathetic. any ideas as to what could cause my stuttering and stumbling and in general falling on its face?

P.S. thank you all soo much allready, i can tell this is alot better forum than most on the interweb, im sure ill be sticking around

quiggs12

Check to make sure you are running on all 4 cylinders. I was running on 2 and couldn't tell at idle but didn't have power to get up my driveway either.

There are mods around buying a new cold start time switch (the switch is over $150 when I checked) that are cheap and easy to do. You should try that before wasting your money... or get on from a salvage yard.

deejaysterling

i have a starting problem as well....my problem is simulair and so i tested the thermo time switch (located underneath the upper rad hose in the lower intake) and the haynes manual says it should be in between 2 - 4 ohms....i got no reading at all when i tested it.
curious if you have tested your thermo time switch? (coolant temp sensor)

davesluggo

DId you ever figure this out? I have a 3.0 but have the same problem. My thermo temp switch is also not measuring? My mechanic tells me that wouldn't matter, but I am willing to try anything at this point.