New Truck
#21
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
actaully the truck was on non op for 2 years before i bought it, and im sure it had sat before that too.
if it is stuck open, once i take out the thermostat, do i have to replace it or could i work it for a bit till it moves.
if it is stuck open, once i take out the thermostat, do i have to replace it or could i work it for a bit till it moves.
#23
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
o wow i just checked and they are under $10 i didnt realize they were that cheap.
looks like tomorrow after work im gonna go get one of thoes and put it in, see if that does the trick
looks like tomorrow after work im gonna go get one of thoes and put it in, see if that does the trick
#24
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
so i went by the toyota dealership today and got the thermostat and gasket, along with some sealant. drained the radiator some and took off the top for the thermostat and i look in and there wasnt anything there!!! just a gasket, so it looks like someone decided to take out the thermostat all together. so i put the new one in after scraping old gasket off and everything, put the radiator fluid back in and all that stuff.
i fired up the truck and it all went fine for a bit then it was reving kinda high (i dont have a tack so i dont know how high) and then it would drop down to a lower rpm randomly then pop back up to the high one stay there for a bit then pop down and back up to the high rpm. after the engine warmed up this stopped. so i dont know what caused that, or if it is bad.
but back to the thermostat the temp gauge settled (after about 20 min of driving) at 1/3 the way to hot.
does anyone else out there have a yota that hangs below half on the temp gauge? cause my other one ran right at half.
does this mean my truck just runs cool?
so i guess i fixed the temp gauge problem, there wasnt a thermostat installed in the truck
i fired up the truck and it all went fine for a bit then it was reving kinda high (i dont have a tack so i dont know how high) and then it would drop down to a lower rpm randomly then pop back up to the high one stay there for a bit then pop down and back up to the high rpm. after the engine warmed up this stopped. so i dont know what caused that, or if it is bad.
but back to the thermostat the temp gauge settled (after about 20 min of driving) at 1/3 the way to hot.
does anyone else out there have a yota that hangs below half on the temp gauge? cause my other one ran right at half.
does this mean my truck just runs cool?
so i guess i fixed the temp gauge problem, there wasnt a thermostat installed in the truck
#26
I wouldn't have thought someone actually removed itafter looking at the pics and how untouched it looks, but I guess so.
I'd bleed the air out some more and maybe pull the EFI fuse so reset things. It might have gotten used to running at the old cool temp. A reset will allow it to learn the new operating temp. Takes 15 seconds and it's worth a shot anyways.
I'd bleed the air out some more and maybe pull the EFI fuse so reset things. It might have gotten used to running at the old cool temp. A reset will allow it to learn the new operating temp. Takes 15 seconds and it's worth a shot anyways.
#28
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
I wouldn't have thought someone actually removed itafter looking at the pics and how untouched it looks, but I guess so.
I'd bleed the air out some more and maybe pull the EFI fuse so reset things. It might have gotten used to running at the old cool temp. A reset will allow it to learn the new operating temp. Takes 15 seconds and it's worth a shot anyways.
I'd bleed the air out some more and maybe pull the EFI fuse so reset things. It might have gotten used to running at the old cool temp. A reset will allow it to learn the new operating temp. Takes 15 seconds and it's worth a shot anyways.
how would you bleed out the air more?
I wouldnt have thought of that, i will pull the EFI fuse and see what happens.
is there any way that the air will bleed itself out??
#29
When I bought my truck the thermostat was removed because the fan clutch was bad and I guess the guy who had the truck before me didn't want the truck to run hot anymore.
#30
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
#32
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
actually it has been idling a bit off since i put the thermo. back in. well it is not low on coolant any more cause i just filled it up. it isnt that hard to fix? what do i do? or what is actually wrong?
#33
I agree with Gary, air in the coolant. I know I need a stat, mine usually runs just above the cool line. when it does come up it does run better.
I have a 92, mine has the knock sensor, it is located behind the oil filter, you should have one as well. I believe you are seeing the AC plug...That is too far forward to be a knock sensor. Let me see if I can find some picts.
I have a 92, mine has the knock sensor, it is located behind the oil filter, you should have one as well. I believe you are seeing the AC plug...That is too far forward to be a knock sensor. Let me see if I can find some picts.
#34
The first one is where the knock sensor is...between the oil filter and the fuel filter. (the fram was there when I got it and it is no longer) In the middle of the pic.

This is showing the same little bunch of wires you have in the front of the motor all taped up nice. I believe this is for the non-existent AC. Personally I would not worry about this plug. At the bottom of the pic

This is showing the same little bunch of wires you have in the front of the motor all taped up nice. I believe this is for the non-existent AC. Personally I would not worry about this plug. At the bottom of the pic
#35
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
The first one is where the knock sensor is...between the oil filter and the fuel filter. (the fram was there when I got it and it is no longer) In the middle of the pic.

This is showing the same little bunch of wires you have in the front of the motor all taped up nice. I believe this is for the non-existent AC. Personally I would not worry about this plug. At the bottom of the pic


This is showing the same little bunch of wires you have in the front of the motor all taped up nice. I believe this is for the non-existent AC. Personally I would not worry about this plug. At the bottom of the pic

ya that first pic is not the plug and i will check to see if it is on my truck, but the second pic is defiantly the plug, just an un used ac plug. thats good there is no need to worry.
so since it seems that there is air in my coolant system. so how do i bleed the air?
#36
Well, when I had mine apart I didn't drain the entire thing (block). When I did get it all back together: When I was filling the rad I would squeeze the top rad hose to keep the coolant flowing as I filled it, kinda like burping the system. Then I started it and kept the cap off and kept burping it and filling. Took it for a ride and let it cool and repeated. This is how I have always done this when changing rads, draining, coolant, anything of the such...I may be just getting lucky, I'm not sure if this is the proper way or not.
#37
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From: San Luis Obispo, California
Well, when I had mine apart I didn't drain the entire thing (block). When I did get it all back together: When I was filling the rad I would squeeze the top rad hose to keep the coolant flowing as I filled it, kinda like burping the system. Then I started it and kept the cap off and kept burping it and filling. Took it for a ride and let it cool and repeated. This is how I have always done this when changing rads, draining, coolant, anything of the such...I may be just getting lucky, I'm not sure if this is the proper way or not.
#38
i did a body lift and took out the rad. when i put it back together and had tons of air. i had to totally remove the thermostat and run it without it for like 10 mins to get the air out. then i put it back in. grabbing the hoses didnt work for me
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