new speed sensor = speedometer REALLY doesn't work now
#1
new speed sensor = speedometer REALLY doesn't work now
Hi Yotatechers-
So... My 94 4runner 3.0 v6 AT was throwing a code 42. Also, the cruise control wasn't working, gears were slipping, speedometer/odometer was only working about half the time.
So I put in a new VSS1 speed sensor. I've only driven it about 10 miles, but the speedometer doesn't work at all now, and the CEL and code 42 come back when it's under a heavy load, ie I hit the gas real hard. Seems to be shifting okay.
Could it be the wiring? Seemed weird that the old VSS ran the speedometer at least half of the time if the wirings bad. At a glance, the connector where I hook up the VSS looked good.
Thanks for any input, guys and gals, 'preciate it.
So... My 94 4runner 3.0 v6 AT was throwing a code 42. Also, the cruise control wasn't working, gears were slipping, speedometer/odometer was only working about half the time.
So I put in a new VSS1 speed sensor. I've only driven it about 10 miles, but the speedometer doesn't work at all now, and the CEL and code 42 come back when it's under a heavy load, ie I hit the gas real hard. Seems to be shifting okay.
Could it be the wiring? Seemed weird that the old VSS ran the speedometer at least half of the time if the wirings bad. At a glance, the connector where I hook up the VSS looked good.
Thanks for any input, guys and gals, 'preciate it.
#3
Contributing Member
Your speedometer might be going bad. Mine did the same thing and eventually it gave out completely. They replaced the sensor first, didn't help, so the speedo was next. that fixed it.
#5
Mid-sized boss- I did replace it myself. I was wondering a little about that helical gear. In the old part and the new one, it turns, but doesn't turn super freely, and I was wondering if that anything to do with it. But maybe there's supposed to be a little resistance? All the teeth were there.
Paul- yeah could be. I failed to mention that the odometer isn't working at all either, though. My knowledge is a little limited though, maybe those are both controlled by the same thing?
The MAN- Thanks for the input. Yeah, I may have to have a guy I know check that out. I honestly only know enough to be like, yeah, it doesn't look corroded from here!
Paul- yeah could be. I failed to mention that the odometer isn't working at all either, though. My knowledge is a little limited though, maybe those are both controlled by the same thing?
The MAN- Thanks for the input. Yeah, I may have to have a guy I know check that out. I honestly only know enough to be like, yeah, it doesn't look corroded from here!
#6
Registered User
yeah... the speedo drives the odometer... so if there's no signal from the sensor, neither one of them will work... however, there are rare cases where the doesn't speedo work but the odometer works, and so the only obvious failure is the gauge itself
#7
bloody hell. I've spent way too much money fixing this truck. The second I get back to the States I'm selling this POS and finding me a new one. This is my fourth 4runner in three years and I haven't had any damn luck with them. I excel at many things, but buying used 4runners apparently is not one of them. Sorry for the off-topic bitch fest.
I'm maybe gonna try taking the part out, giving everything another looksee. Maybe I didn't get the connector connected properly or something. I guess I just expected that the thing wouldn't shift properly at all if the part was bad or not connected right.
I'm maybe gonna try taking the part out, giving everything another looksee. Maybe I didn't get the connector connected properly or something. I guess I just expected that the thing wouldn't shift properly at all if the part was bad or not connected right.
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#9
hahaha! It's like the straw that broke the camel's back.
There should be a write-up somewhere in yotatech about replacing the speedometer, right? I could have sworn there was an actual tech write-up section, but I can't find it. I'll keep looking.
Re Landcruiser- I WISH!!! As soon as I'm no longer a starving grad student, I'll upgrade to a good 4runner. The Landcruiser is in my farther distant future.
There should be a write-up somewhere in yotatech about replacing the speedometer, right? I could have sworn there was an actual tech write-up section, but I can't find it. I'll keep looking.
Re Landcruiser- I WISH!!! As soon as I'm no longer a starving grad student, I'll upgrade to a good 4runner. The Landcruiser is in my farther distant future.
#10
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With VSS1 out in your hand, there should be very little resistance to turning (there is a magnet on the end of the shaft, which turns near to, not touching, a hall-effect sensor).
You could try a direct test. With your faithful assistant watching the speedometer, key on engine off, VSS1 out but plugged in. Spin the gear sort-a quickly (just run it down your forearm) and you should get an indication on the speedometer.
One of the three pins in the connector is 12v to ground; just check all three with your voltmeter. No 12v means you have an electrical problem.
Good luck!
You could try a direct test. With your faithful assistant watching the speedometer, key on engine off, VSS1 out but plugged in. Spin the gear sort-a quickly (just run it down your forearm) and you should get an indication on the speedometer.
One of the three pins in the connector is 12v to ground; just check all three with your voltmeter. No 12v means you have an electrical problem.
Good luck!
#12
No joy- new part is bad:(
Damn I hate it when that happens...
I did the direct test as Scope described above. With the old sensor, when I spun the gear, the speedometer jumped. With the new sensor, nothing happened. The gear WAS having a little more resistance to turning in the new sensor, so I actually unscrewed the three screws holding on the Hall effect sensor, and put the new sensor on the old shaft. Still got no speedo movement.
My diagnosis- sensor on the new part is non-functioning. I am sad. Guess I'll have to live with the old part for a while longer. At least it works half the time
I did the direct test as Scope described above. With the old sensor, when I spun the gear, the speedometer jumped. With the new sensor, nothing happened. The gear WAS having a little more resistance to turning in the new sensor, so I actually unscrewed the three screws holding on the Hall effect sensor, and put the new sensor on the old shaft. Still got no speedo movement.
My diagnosis- sensor on the new part is non-functioning. I am sad. Guess I'll have to live with the old part for a while longer. At least it works half the time
#15
i picked it up off ebay but I can't remember the seller's name. Some parts store though. I ended up getting a good sensor for a reasonable price off of a tranny at a junk yard. It was still working fine when I got rid of the 4runner about four thousand miles later.
#16
Checking the VSS for proper operation and the dash
Due to a$$holes I have removed my post sorry to all the people it could have helped. They want to be the all mighty . I'm not wasting my time with these people.
Last edited by 94runner285kandgoing; 01-01-2012 at 08:16 PM.
#18
It's a little more readable if you DON'T write/type it like it's one continuous run-on sentence...like so...
Just sayin'...
I have a friend that works at minekee and he let me take a look at their computer program that shows how to test componets before they have to change parts out needlessly.
Take the VSS (vechicle speed sensor) out of the transmission. It is located at the tailshaft part of the transmission right by the drive shaft. There are 2 electronic sensors located there. the lower sensor is the speed sensor that you are tring to test. There is only one bolt in this sensor. Take the sensor off carefully there is a gear and shaft inside of the sensor. There is a rubber oring be careful not to bind the sensor as it comes in and out or you will have to try to find another one. The shaft will fall out just pick it up and put it back in the sensor.
With the sensor now out hold it with the push button lock upward and the small detent towards the bottom. Looking at it in this orientation the numbers of the pins are from left to right. 3 left most, 2 middle, 1 right most.
Pop your hood and loosen your terminals just far enough to get jumper wires under your terminals. The number one terminal (right most) put the positive jumper wire from battery ( I used allagator clips with short wires that kept me from having to loosen my battery terminals wires possiably can loose the cd player code which the dealer can give you by your VIN #). The number 2 terminal (middle terminal) clip the negative battery jumper wire to it. Take a multimeter on the VDC (Volts Direct Current) take the allagator clip that you attached to the number 2 pin and put the negative lead (black lead) under that allagator clip (pin 2). Take the pos. lead (red lead) to pin 3 (right most) on the sensor. spin the shaft with the plastic gear on the end very slowly. The voltage on the meter should change it should range from 0-11 the sensor should change 4 times per revolution. If the voltage is not changing the sensor is bad.
If it was not your sensor the dash can possiably be bad the eaisest way to check that is pull the dash cluster. I know its not fun but its the only way to check it. put the dash cluster in your lap facing down. that will put the speed side3 of the dash cluster on your left knee. look directly down the instrument cluster on the left most connector. the farthest left connector and the one beside it are the 2 for the speed sensor. take a 6 volt flash light battery or 12 volt if easily accesiable. the 6 volt will make it move just not all the way. The left most is the negative and the one to its right is the positive bump it with jumpers with the battey and look at the speed guage if its not moving the dash cluster has gone out. When the dash cluster is the culpret he was telling me that the odometer will continue to work just the speed ometer will stop. But not always.
I looked for this info on the internet and could not find it so i decided to post what I found out from the commercial program that they use at minekee.
Good luck to all.
Take the VSS (vechicle speed sensor) out of the transmission. It is located at the tailshaft part of the transmission right by the drive shaft. There are 2 electronic sensors located there. the lower sensor is the speed sensor that you are tring to test. There is only one bolt in this sensor. Take the sensor off carefully there is a gear and shaft inside of the sensor. There is a rubber oring be careful not to bind the sensor as it comes in and out or you will have to try to find another one. The shaft will fall out just pick it up and put it back in the sensor.
With the sensor now out hold it with the push button lock upward and the small detent towards the bottom. Looking at it in this orientation the numbers of the pins are from left to right. 3 left most, 2 middle, 1 right most.
Pop your hood and loosen your terminals just far enough to get jumper wires under your terminals. The number one terminal (right most) put the positive jumper wire from battery ( I used allagator clips with short wires that kept me from having to loosen my battery terminals wires possiably can loose the cd player code which the dealer can give you by your VIN #). The number 2 terminal (middle terminal) clip the negative battery jumper wire to it. Take a multimeter on the VDC (Volts Direct Current) take the allagator clip that you attached to the number 2 pin and put the negative lead (black lead) under that allagator clip (pin 2). Take the pos. lead (red lead) to pin 3 (right most) on the sensor. spin the shaft with the plastic gear on the end very slowly. The voltage on the meter should change it should range from 0-11 the sensor should change 4 times per revolution. If the voltage is not changing the sensor is bad.
If it was not your sensor the dash can possiably be bad the eaisest way to check that is pull the dash cluster. I know its not fun but its the only way to check it. put the dash cluster in your lap facing down. that will put the speed side3 of the dash cluster on your left knee. look directly down the instrument cluster on the left most connector. the farthest left connector and the one beside it are the 2 for the speed sensor. take a 6 volt flash light battery or 12 volt if easily accesiable. the 6 volt will make it move just not all the way. The left most is the negative and the one to its right is the positive bump it with jumpers with the battey and look at the speed guage if its not moving the dash cluster has gone out. When the dash cluster is the culpret he was telling me that the odometer will continue to work just the speed ometer will stop. But not always.
I looked for this info on the internet and could not find it so i decided to post what I found out from the commercial program that they use at minekee.
Good luck to all.
We recieved a sensor from NAPA and it did not work we took it out and checked it with the test I posted eairlier. The brand new sensor was not sensing. So it can happen. before you spend alot of money i would check it even if it is new.
The replacement sensor did work and the problem is now fixed. 285k and still going. I had to finally fix it it broke last year just before I got my inspection if the miles do not advance my friend from minekee said that the system will put a flag on the VIN on the car if the milage has not advanced since the last inspection when you look it up on carfax from then on it will have a milage tampering warning attached to the VIN. just a side note.
Hope this helps someone.
The replacement sensor did work and the problem is now fixed. 285k and still going. I had to finally fix it it broke last year just before I got my inspection if the miles do not advance my friend from minekee said that the system will put a flag on the VIN on the car if the milage has not advanced since the last inspection when you look it up on carfax from then on it will have a milage tampering warning attached to the VIN. just a side note.
Hope this helps someone.
Last edited by MudHippy; 01-01-2012 at 11:40 AM.