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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

New motor break-in

Old Nov 12, 2009 | 09:38 PM
  #1  
YFZsandrider's Avatar
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From: Tacoma, Wa
New motor break-in

I have a freshly rebuilt 22re.

I ran SAE 30 conventional oil for initial startup, and seating the rings. I the drained the oil and changed the filter, replacing with 15w 40 Rotella for the first few hundred miles.

Questions-

How far can I go before I need to change the oil again?

When should I check the head bolts? and is once enough, or should they be checked often?
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #2  
Elton's Avatar
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From: Siletz,Oregon
take it real easy for the first 500 and change the oil
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 10:31 PM
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From: maryland
I did mine 15w 40 at 20, 700, and will again at 3k (been driving it like I stole it so it breaks in like that, break it in like you want it to run when broke in and will run 100%) then I will go to AMSOIL full syn for the life of the motor.

Headbolts should be checked retorqued within the first 1-200 miles, check the valves within the first 1-200 miles and you can check the headbolts at the same time

Last edited by olharleyman; Nov 12, 2009 at 10:35 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 06:27 AM
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From: Pollock Pines, CA
Originally Posted by Gnarly4X
Why are you using 15-40? Is the vechicle going to be driven in a very hot climate? A good petroleum-based oil with a viscosity of 5-30 is what I would use. I would not switch to synth until after a few thousand miles.
In some areas (e.g., CA), 15-40w conventional diesel/truck oils are the only oils that still retain ANY zinc content, so they are ideal for break in.

I guess I made the mistake of switching to synthetic after ~1200 miles. I am incidentally seeing quite a bit of oil loss, but believe this is due to more significant issues (valve seals)... woh woh wohhhhhhh
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 07:45 AM
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From: Arizona
An article that includes the zinc issue: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html

That sucks.

I saw a post in another forum advising to add a can of GM EOS to the oil for initial break-in. Any thoughts on that?

Any preferences for cam assembly lube?
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 07:57 AM
  #6  
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From: Arizona
Here is an interesting write-up of what needs to be lubed with what for break-in. It's by a company pushing their products, but the info in general makes sense: http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief12%2...20Break-in.pdf
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 11:22 AM
  #7  
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From: Vancouver< WA
Originally Posted by YFZsandrider
I have a freshly rebuilt 22re.

I ran SAE 30 conventional oil for initial startup, and seating the rings. I the drained the oil and changed the filter, replacing with 15w 40 Rotella for the first few hundred miles.

Questions-

How far can I go before I need to change the oil again?

When should I check the head bolts? and is once enough, or should they be checked often?
500 to 700 miles sounds about right. Check it often and when it starts looking dirty, that's when you want to change it.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 12:24 PM
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I used rotella 15w40 at first.Its way to thick.Rattled for a couple of seconds at startup.Switched to 5w40 rotella after about 1500 miles.Much better.The zinc content is not what it used to be even in rotella so I suplement with redline zinc additive.Lubriplate makes a good engine assembly lube.I changed engine oil at 500 miles on my break in,then another 500 after that.And I never retorqued my head bolts.Runs like a champ.
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 10:03 AM
  #9  
YFZsandrider's Avatar
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Is a zinc additive something that is needed only at break-in, or is it something you add occasionally?
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
ENGNBLDR recommended me to use Valvoline 10-30. during initial and really any time because it has a higher zinc content in it than others.

He had also said, change it after the first 20-30 minute cam breakin, then again at 500, and again at 1500, and again at 3000. And do not use synthetic till at least 5000 miles. This would include the 5-40 rotella which is synthetic unlike the 15-40 synthetic.
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Originally Posted by Gnarly4X
There are millions and millions of street engines that never get their head bolts re-torqued.

X2 on that one, think about it, when you buy a new car, do you take it in for service after 500 miles to have the head bolts re torqued? Or even valve lash for that matter.
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