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new clutch HELP

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Old 09-25-2008, 03:13 PM
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new clutch HELP

Ok i took on the task of replacing my clutch myself with my cousin i have new clutch kit with bearings and all. Just unbolted everything and am about to drop tranny with cross member attached (4in suspension lift with 2in body so should have plenty of room). As we speak tranny is on jack under truck but cant get it to break loose from engine. Yes all bell housing bolts are off as well as necessary parts ie: starter drive lines etc. Any tips to breaking it loose?

Also i am replacing oil pan gasket and tranny mounts while im in there. I was thinking about rear main seal. Is it hard to replace?
Old 09-25-2008, 03:22 PM
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The tranny has to slide back a good few inches to clear the clutch. I used a pry bar on the sides to help. It doesn't slide apart very well by itself. If you're having trouble getting it apart, wait until to try to get it lined back up and together again. Replacing the rear main isn't difficult at all, once everything is out of the way.
Old 09-25-2008, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyberman
The tranny has to slide back a good few inches to clear the clutch. I used a pry bar on the sides to help. It doesn't slide apart very well by itself. If you're having trouble getting it apart, wait until to try to get it lined back up and together again. Replacing the rear main isn't difficult at all, once everything is out of the way.
My next step was to pry but wanted opinions first. So rear main seal not so hard? Never messed with one before
Old 09-25-2008, 03:44 PM
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The rear seal is actually not bad. You didn't mention if you had a 22RE or a 3VZE, but the process is the same (the oil seal retainer is the metal plate on the back of the engine, that holds the seal):

IF REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER IS REMOVED FROM
CYLINDER BLOCK (Replacement of rear oil seal)
(a) Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seal.
(b) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(c) Using SST, install the oil seal.
SST 09223–41020

IF REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER IS INSTALLED ON CYLINDER
BLOCK (Replacement of rear oil seal)
(a) Using a knife, cut off lip of oil seal.
(b) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
Tape the screwdriver tip.
(c) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(d) Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its
surface is flush with the rear oil seal retainer edge.
SST 09223–41020

The SST is a big disc, which is used to tap the seal in place.
Not sure if you have Harbor Freight around you, but they sell an 18 piece seal driver kit for $5.
Old 09-25-2008, 03:46 PM
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Its a 22re i dont have a SST. Can i get by without it?
Old 09-25-2008, 03:47 PM
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I tied a rope to it, and pulled it back a bit with my dads tacoma.




Old 09-25-2008, 03:48 PM
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LOL... i dont think i will be doing that one!
Old 09-25-2008, 04:04 PM
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my clutch was so burned up i had to break my tranny away with a pry bar!!!!
Old 09-25-2008, 04:14 PM
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Ya, pry bar will do the trick. Start with a small one, and go bigger. Also, pry some on one side, then the other. I think tilting it slightly may help as well, the engine has a tendancy to drop down in the back without the tranny holding it up. Don't tilt it to the point where the input shaft is holding any of the weight though.
Old 09-25-2008, 04:22 PM
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pry bar and about 4 inches lol


as for the rear main once the trany is out you'll see, drop the oil pan and go nuts on them 10MM bolts and take it out put new one in and pan back in and what not

oh i almost forgot you have to take the 47 hundred pound fly wheel off first thats where the fun is lol dont forget to use lock tight on the fly wheel when you put it back in
Old 09-25-2008, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Squeebs
I tied a rope to it, and pulled it back a bit with my dads tacoma.
Originally Posted by sincal
LOL... i dont think i will be doing that one!
Hey, there is nothing wrong with that.

I had a total of three people trying to get mine off, two prying with pry bars, and one person pulling it from behind, and it still wouldn't come off after half an hour.

We had to go to my friends house and get a come-a-long, I ended up wrapping it around the t-case and the rear axle, only then did it come out.
Old 09-25-2008, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by just a 22re
oh i almost forgot you have to take the 47 hundred pound fly wheel off first thats where the fun is lol dont forget to use lock tight on the fly wheel when you put it back in
4700lb not even 30lbs!

Originally Posted by red97taco
We had to go to my friends house and get a come-a-long, I ended up wrapping it around the t-case and the rear axle, only then did it come out.
Use a jack next time to lift the tranny to keep it better aligned while removing it for easier removal! It can be hard to take in and out but if you just unbolt and try to remove you have way more acting against it if you dont support it!

Make sense?
Old 09-25-2008, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by red97taco
We had to go to my friends house and get a come-a-long, I ended up wrapping it around the t-case and the rear axle, only then did it come out.
Pilot bearing is toast! you said you have all to rebuild, just be sure you replace that too!

Hows the tranny? Now would be the time to replace the bearings and syncros if you can also (If high millage) Its easy to DIY if you have the ability and tools too!
Old 09-25-2008, 09:53 PM
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Well thanks all for the input. I got the tranny out and ready for install tomorrow. The clutch didnt look that bad, but since im in there im going to replace it. I went ahead and pulled my oil pan. That took longer than the tranny. damn rtv..lol. but i couldnt get the oil pan all the way out going to have to lift the engine. I thought since i hade a 4 in suspension lift it would slide out. Guess im not that lucky. Should all be put back togather tomorrow.

Oh and yeah not going to replace rear main due to its not leaking thought it was but was just oil from the pan.
Old 09-25-2008, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fillsrunner4
4700lb not even 30lbs!



Use a jack next time to lift the tranny to keep it better aligned while removing it for easier removal! It can be hard to take in and out but if you just unbolt and try to remove you have way more acting against it if you dont support it!

Make sense?
I had a jack under the engine, and I had a tranny jack under the tranny, ALL level and aligned. Just a bitch to come apart, and don't know why.
Old 09-25-2008, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sincal
Well thanks all for the input. I got the tranny out and ready for install tomorrow. The clutch didnt look that bad, but since im in there im going to replace it. I went ahead and pulled my oil pan. That took longer than the tranny. damn rtv..lol. but i couldnt get the oil pan all the way out going to have to lift the engine. I thought since i hade a 4 in suspension lift it would slide out. Guess im not that lucky. Should all be put back togather tomorrow.

Oh and yeah not going to replace rear main due to its not leaking thought it was but was just oil from the pan.
4 bolts for the engine and you can lift it fast

I dont think IFS lifts help with dropping the pan but then again I SASed mine before I touched the IFS again!

RTV is a B*tch but great stuff!

Good luck the install!
Old 09-25-2008, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by red97taco
I had a jack under the engine, and I had a tranny jack under the tranny, ALL level and aligned. Just a bitch to come apart, and don't know why.
They always are!

I do know however that my 4.3 to my R150F goes together and comes apart with so much ease its not even funny! Must be the design somehow!
Old 09-25-2008, 10:14 PM
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what four bolts are you talking about? The motor mount ones? cause isnt there more than just four?
Old 09-25-2008, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sincal
what four bolts are you talking about? The motor mount ones? cause isnt there more than just four?
Motor mounts yes! Only 4 blots hold that motor to the "frame" aside from the tranny attached
Old 09-25-2008, 10:31 PM
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I must have extra bolts then.. i replaced my motor mounts a littl over a month ago and i could have swore there were more than four bolts holding them on


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