I'm lookin at a stage 3 22r from lce engineering... Anybody have experience with them? I have ran buth the 22re in my 89 and the 22r in my 85. I actually like the 22r better. But anyhow would you guys recommend the stage 3 from lce?

 

I have no experience with LCE. I can't give you any input.

 

snobdds-
I'll be receiving my new stage 2 from putney's in about a week and looking for any hints or tips you can provide for a newby at swapping a 22re. This will be my first engine install, but looking for any help I can get. The parts I am also replacing are pretty much every part listed off the site. I noticed you had to have a bearing pressed off which broke the dog ears. Where is this part located and is it necessary to remove in order for the install? From what I can tell it is pretty much a bolt-in engine which is good, but any help is grateful. Thanks!

 

This thread is about Putney's engines and I don't think you will get much response about LC Engineering engines here. Might want to start a separate thread asking about LCE, or maybe do a search also. I don't have any direct experience with LCE, but...from what I've heard and read, Putney's is the way to go.

 

The part that broke on me was the hub that holds the throwout bearing on the clutch fork. It needs to be pressed on and off, so learn from my mistake and make sure someone competent does that part. If you break it like the tool that did mine, it's not the end of the world. The dealer has the part and I think Marlin Crawler now carries them too.

As far as advice goes...just take your time if it's your first time. I would get an OEM master gasket kit before you start. That has every gasket you would need to put it back together, including the odd ones. There will be a lot you don't use, but it's eaiser and cheaper than piecing individual ones.

22re's are easy to work on, so it is a great motor to learn on. I have been super happy with my engine from Putney's and Jim has been great to work with. My father has a 91 truck with the 22re with about 250,000 miles the motor. We will be replacing that engine soon with another from Jim.

Good luck.

 

This video from Putney's is pretty convincing as well, if I needed a rebuilt 22RE it looks like their stage 2 is your best bang for your buck at $2395 plus a $270 core charge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-f-oWhNCc0

 

I d just like to add. I recently did a head gasket on my 91 and I needed new head bolts. I found Putneys site in my search. This guy Jim was so very helpful and I was only making a 45.00 purchase. My head tested good, so I did not need a replacement but if I did I was going to get it from him. You can tell he loves talking toyota.

 

Excellent, thanks for the help and the advice. I'll be sure to order the gasket kit and an extra hub part before I start just in case. By the way, what is the exact name of that hub part? Is it clutch release collar? (http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...release-collar ) It was the only part that I could find that looked like the "dog ears" you had mentioned, thanks!

 

Yes, that is the collar that broke when they tried to press the release bearing off.

 

Those putney engines are nice looking, but they are still 22re's. I would rather swap in a low milage
3rz and figure out what to do with the $2000 in my pocket.

 

No one is stopping you. Have fun with the wiring.

 

It's not rocket science. You only need a test light, a soldering gun, and an average IQ.

I wouldn't say the wiring is gonna be fun, but going uphill at 80mph in 5th gear will be.

 

Check out the Sunwest engines for those looking to purchase a reman.
http://www.sunwestautomotiveengines.com/lb-toyota.html

 

Famous last words...

Obviously you have not put a lot of research into this. You’re putting an ODBII system into an ODBI platform.

Besides, I can do 80 uphill too...

 

Tell that to to the numerous guys driving around my town with a california legally swapped 3rz. Or maybe you could tell that to all the guys on pirate4x4 or marlin crawler forum who have detailedbuild threads with all kinds of cool stuff like pictures, and information, links and even wiring diagrams.
I'm not gonna beat this dead horse any longer. Obviously you havn't researched it, or you might not have spent 3500 on another 22r.

 

Just got my stage 2 in from Putney's and, man, am i impressed with the way it's looking. My dad's used to working on Chevy engines and the only words I heard when he saw it was 'damn thats a great looking engine'. Glad I found your thread on installing yours, thanks again for the advice, have the gasket kit and collar with a new bearing on the way

 

Snobdds, I have read thru this thread and may have missed it, but did you go with their performance head with the oversized valves, etc. My little motor had almost 300k on it and it is my DD and I think it is time for some love and I was going to just rebuild one myself, but after seeing a post by you on ttora and then remembering this thread, I am seriously considering going the same route as you and giving this Jim fellow a call. I know you had him do all OEM internals and this definitely appeals to me since I am looking for another 300k out of this truck.

The $3500 you put out there was just for the engine correct?

Thanks,

Matthew

 

Hey, I know I'm a bit late and such, but I thought I'd answer your question about re-torque.

We use ONLY OEM head gaskets, new head bolts and we obsessively clean the head bolt threads in the block. When we do this combo, there is no reason for re-torque. It's basically the same as when it rolled off the showroom floor, they didn't require a re-torque then either.

Strange that you've found the OEM gasket to be thicker. We've found the opposite to be true. Most aftermarket gaskets we've seen are generally .020" thicker. Most aftermarket manufacturers make them thicker on purpose to compensate for the fact you are probably having the head resurfaced, thus making it "thinner". Having the head milled too much can cause timing chain issues (in extreme cases, of course).

The thicker aftermarket gasket HAS to be retorqued (more "crush"), if not, they can fail. Even though the head bolts are not the "stretch" type, they do tend to get corrosion on the shanks of them, so there is another reason the aftermarket dudes recommend re-torque, it's a way to cover their behinds.

Now that you are all sleepy from my extra boring explanation, I'll leave you alone.

-Jerry (the "other guy" at 22RE Performance).

 

I now have about ~22,000 miles on the engine. No leaks, no issues, and everything has been running great. Never re-torqued the head gasket and everything is fine....

I ran the truck up to my cabin this past week and it's a pleasure to drive.

Just a quick update.

Jerry, I have a 91 hunting truck I will be putting a new engine in. I will be in touch...

 

Many Thanks for sharing your hard work and wisdom with us.