hey all, so I am in the process of rebuilding my motor, I bought a built block from a machine shop that came with a new crank, new rods and pistons. I threw a rod in my old motor. Long story short I pulled my old motor with plans to re use my head ( i orderd the new 4 piece timing kit and re build gasket kit with bearings from engnbldr) but I am now running low on funds. My question is, do I need to take my head to a shop to have it cleaned and checked? the motor did not over heat or anything, and it looks to be in good shape, the cheapest i can get a shop to clean it and check it out for is 160.


thanks

 

well you can do that, but you might just have to pull the head later on if it burns oil or somethin, wich will suck but if its what you can do its what you can do..i got a valve, valve guide, all new seals and checked out for $100 - a cleaning tho

 

what would make it burn oil or something now when it didnt before? But on a positive not, my box from engnbldr just got here

 

the only thing that would make it burn oil would be the valve guide seals, but if it burn oil b4 shouldnt now, just later down the road maybe...and thats good news! its like Christmas

 

the head has 170,000 on it. the truck ran great before the rod failure, it did not have any leaks, and as far as I know did not burn any oil.

 

just a quick question, i read the thread and saw you got the timing set for engnbldr what all comes with it? cause i need one i found out this week that the tick i had, wasnt valves needing adjusting. it was the chain hitting the timing cover. i just bought my yota im new to them.

 

it came with a oil pump, water pump, timing cover, timing chain, guides and everything needed to install

 

To me, its a question of reliability. You can clean and visually inspect the head yourself. Put a straight edge on it per the FSM. In my case, the block had a hole in it but the head looked brand new. But I had my machine shop inspect it anyways. The deck was warped 0.001 - 0.002 in and pressure testing showed 2 damaged valves. One valve looked damaged on close inspection but the other did not.

 

If you wanted a cheap job done quick maybe you should've went and found a vehicle with a 22r that still ran, and not decided to overhaul.
You say your truck threw a rod? Did you ever consider maybe the piston in that particular cylinder stopped moving while your valves continued to open and close?
I'm no rocket scientist, but now that your motor is torn down it's time to consider "Do I wanna throw this back together and drive soon?" or.. "Would I like to expect at LEAST another 170k well served miles?"
just my .02