Wile E. Toyote

My project has been swapping an extended cab, and EFI over to a short frame using a 22R engine. Convert the engine to RE. It finally Started!!! Thank you Yotatech. How did people do projects before the internet.

Anyway, it dies after a few seconds and I still have some stray vacuum lines and plugs. The vacuum diagram doesn't seem to have everything that I have in my engine bay. I really NEED some pics of your 22RE's, preferably 88 with A/C so it would have the same stuff. Please please as many as you have or can take would be greatly appreciated. I owe ya a beer.

Thanks all.

abecedarian

well to speed things up- plug up every vacuum line coming from the intake that you can't see an obvious place for it... just don't plug up the PCV valve or the breather tube to the valve cover.
None of the other accessories are required for the engine to start and run.
since you say it dies after a few seconds...
make sure that the duct from the throttle body to the air-flow meter is connected and undamaged
make sure the smaller duct from the air-flow meter to the PAIR resonator (looks sort of like a toilet bowl float) is connected properly, or at least plugged at the air-flow meter- it's not necessary for the engine to run, just for smog purposes.
you probably already know, but the air-flow meter is responsible for turning the circuit opening relay on, which turns the fuel pump on. the fact it starts implies the COR is being turned on by the ignition switch, but it's not being kept on by the AFM. if the air-flow through the afm is too low, or the wiring has an issue (is the AFM plugged in?), the fuel pump will turn off because the circuit opening relay is doing it's real job- opening the fuel pump circuit.

and go figure you'd ask for pics right after I take a trip away from my 88 4runner.

jsn_stockard

How are you doing the knock sensor on a 22R block?

abecedarian

Good question, and that was something I was wondering when I put an 88 22r longblock in my 91 22re chassis. But my 91 didn't have one. And neither does my 88. And they're both California models to boot.
But since the 85> 22r and re are the same, shouldn't be an issue.

jsn_stockard

Without it, the computer can't make the correct timing adjustments. As soon as you hit 1500 rpm, the check engine light will come on and there should be a sudden power loss. Ignition ping is a bad thing. You will have to retard the timing past where it needs to be just to try to beat the curve

abecedarian

Well like I said, my 88 and 91 22RE's do not have it and both will rev above 5000 without any loss of power or pinging.
My 88's a 5sp (the one in my avatar) and will do 75 in 3rd gear without pinging or overheating or a knock sensor.
The 91 doesn't rev above 5k often (it's an automatic) but it'll do 60 in 2nd easily.

Wile E. Toyote

Thanks for the info/help. I have the AFM connected and air tubes, but I haven't checked resistance on it yet. I'm thinking I have something a little out of whack or the AFM is just bad. I do have a spare AFM, so hopefully that is my problem. I haven't addressed the knock sensor yet, i'll figure it out if it's a problem. At this point I would like to lose power at 1500rpms, that would mean it ran long enough to get to 1500.

Wile E. Toyote

Also, if I just jump the fuel pump with the diagnostic plug would it get around the issue and let the truck run. In other words, if the AFM isn't reading and turning the fuel pump off and I jump the fuel pump, will the injectors still shoot?

Wile E. Toyote

Pics? anyone?

Wile E. Toyote

I dug up this dead thread. Notice I never got any pictures.
It's running now, thanks to yotatech and much troubleshooting on my part.

Anyways, I got a knock sensor from another motor. And just put it on, the 22r already had a threaded hole where the knock sensor goes.