Need help. Running fine....5 min down the road truck dies can't restart
Sep 24, 2019 | 07:52 PM
#21
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If it runs with starting fluid, it's probably not ignition (timing, plug wires, etc. are probably all good). If you have fuel pressure on cranking it's probably not the COR or VAF (or fuel pump or fuel filter). Problems with the TPS are unlikely to lead to no-start.
While I'm not standing where you are, my next guess is the injectors are not opening. They're no fun to get to on the 3VZE, but my next step would be to check for injector pulse on 2-4-6 at least. Since the plugs are firing, IGT is getting TO the igniter (so the ECU has the signal to open the injectors). If the injectors aren't opening, I'd look for damage to the wiring from the ECU to the injectors. Probably not a single bad connection (that would take out only one injector), but a wire broken closer to the ECU, or a short to ground.
While I'm not standing where you are, my next guess is the injectors are not opening. They're no fun to get to on the 3VZE, but my next step would be to check for injector pulse on 2-4-6 at least. Since the plugs are firing, IGT is getting TO the igniter (so the ECU has the signal to open the injectors). If the injectors aren't opening, I'd look for damage to the wiring from the ECU to the injectors. Probably not a single bad connection (that would take out only one injector), but a wire broken closer to the ECU, or a short to ground.
Other than the stripped wires is there anything else I should look at while I have the plenum off?
Going to replace the injectors and plugs while I have the plenum off and re-wire them nice and tidy.
Sep 24, 2019 | 08:57 PM
#22
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From: San Francisco East Bay
Are your injector connector bodies okay? At least on the 3VZE, they're in a very hot environment, and after a measly 25 years they get brittle and break.
Replacements are easy to find. You can get them with "pigtails," but then you end up with more splices rather than fewer. I bought the "kits," crimping on new connector pins and inserting them into the new bodies. This will take a while if you have to order the connectors, but generally a worthwhile investment. Particularly considering the current state of your wiring, and your goal to fix it once and for all time.
And replace the PCV valve. The grommet is likely to be hard as rock, so replace that too. Be careful pulling it; if you break off a piece and lose it, you should pull the valve cover to get it.
Are your valves in need of adjustment? You need to pull the plenum to get the valve covers off, so now is the time to do it.
Replacements are easy to find. You can get them with "pigtails," but then you end up with more splices rather than fewer. I bought the "kits," crimping on new connector pins and inserting them into the new bodies. This will take a while if you have to order the connectors, but generally a worthwhile investment. Particularly considering the current state of your wiring, and your goal to fix it once and for all time.
And replace the PCV valve. The grommet is likely to be hard as rock, so replace that too. Be careful pulling it; if you break off a piece and lose it, you should pull the valve cover to get it.
Are your valves in need of adjustment? You need to pull the plenum to get the valve covers off, so now is the time to do it.
Last edited by scope103; Sep 25, 2019 at 03:46 AM.
Sep 27, 2019 | 05:56 PM
#23
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Are your injector connector bodies okay? At least on the 3VZE, they're in a very hot environment, and after a measly 25 years they get brittle and break.
Replacements are easy to find. You can get them with "pigtails," but then you end up with more splices rather than fewer. I bought the "kits," crimping on new connector pins and inserting them into the new bodies. This will take a while if you have to order the connectors, but generally a worthwhile investment. Particularly considering the current state of your wiring, and your goal to fix it once and for all time.
And replace the PCV valve. The grommet is likely to be hard as rock, so replace that too. Be careful pulling it; if you break off a piece and lose it, you should pull the valve cover to get it.
Are your valves in need of adjustment? You need to pull the plenum to get the valve covers off, so now is the time to do it.
Replacements are easy to find. You can get them with "pigtails," but then you end up with more splices rather than fewer. I bought the "kits," crimping on new connector pins and inserting them into the new bodies. This will take a while if you have to order the connectors, but generally a worthwhile investment. Particularly considering the current state of your wiring, and your goal to fix it once and for all time.
And replace the PCV valve. The grommet is likely to be hard as rock, so replace that too. Be careful pulling it; if you break off a piece and lose it, you should pull the valve cover to get it.
Are your valves in need of adjustment? You need to pull the plenum to get the valve covers off, so now is the time to do it.
happy to say that I finally got the truck started and the culprit was certainly bad wiring/ old wiring. I replaced all of the worn and brittle injector plugs and cleaned up under the plenum.
BUT>>>>>>>>>>>>> NOW IM GETTING A ODB CODE 52 ! Knock sensor circuit fail...., ugh... I must have hit it or moved it while packaging up the injectors.... plenum back off. Any tips or ideas... from a quick look up pi found that its usually bad wiring and a potential TPS sensor... geeesh if its not one thing its another
Sep 28, 2019 | 06:38 AM
#24
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From: San Francisco East Bay
I don't know how a TPS could affect a code 52. The MOST likely cause of this code (at this age) is damage to the "pig tail" from the knock sensor itself to the harness on the other side of the intake manifold. It's almost certain you bumped into it while working, and as hard as the heat is on the rest of wiring, the "pig tail" gets it the worst.
The part is not hard to get or even expensive. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/_...221935010.html But you'll have to remove the lower intake manifold to get to it. You can replace the knock sensor itself while you're there, but they are very tough and unlikely to be the cause of your issue.
The part is not hard to get or even expensive. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/_...221935010.html But you'll have to remove the lower intake manifold to get to it. You can replace the knock sensor itself while you're there, but they are very tough and unlikely to be the cause of your issue.
Sep 28, 2019 | 07:18 AM
#25
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I don't know how a TPS could affect a code 52. The MOST likely cause of this code (at this age) is damage to the "pig tail" from the knock sensor itself to the harness on the other side of the intake manifold. It's almost certain you bumped into it while working, and as hard as the heat is on the rest of wiring, the "pig tail" gets it the worst.
The part is not hard to get or even expensive. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/_...221935010.html But you'll have to remove the lower intake manifold to get to it. You can replace the knock sensor itself while you're there, but they are very tough and unlikely to be the cause of your issue.
The part is not hard to get or even expensive. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/_...221935010.html But you'll have to remove the lower intake manifold to get to it. You can replace the knock sensor itself while you're there, but they are very tough and unlikely to be the cause of your issue.
I've read some horror stories about using aftermarket KS.(any tips)
Also gonna run diagnostics on the pigtail but I read contradicting info and the FSM has very little info on the KS.
I'll ohm out the KS once I have the top removed but before I dive into that, how does the connection to the ecu get checked? (How many ohms)
Does it have continuity (oL on multimeter) or grounded, the wiring?
I can pull that plenum now in 15 min and have every hose memorized...lol. I know this top end better than I wish I did.
Last edited by Yancy Calderon; Sep 28, 2019 at 07:23 AM.
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