nomad26

Hi Need some help with an oil leak in my 1989 Toyota Pickup 22RE . I found the oil leak its right at the bottom of the water pump I think. Or right where all the fan belts are on pulleys on the bottom of the engine . You can see the split in the case where it bolts to the main engine.
What I need help with is what should I replace to fix this right ?
Once I am in there how deep do I go to fix things
Should I replace timing chain ?
I need help knowing what to replace while I have this opened up.
This truck has 170 k on it and runs great .
THis oil leak just started a few weeks ago and its putting oil all over the engine.
I cleaned the other day and now my parking brake light on the dash will not go out along with the battery light.
I figure something got wet. I plan on replacing the alternator and what every else I need to do to get this job done right.
THanks

snippits

Don't fix it if it's not broke like the chain and etc.. Sounds like you got the alternator wet while cleaning.

Good chance the front seal is leaking. Toyota makes a special seal--Genuine Toyota 90311-45014 Type-T Timing Cover Oil Seal--that rides on a different spot because it is thinner than the original part. I have one on my 92 right now that's been on there for two years now with no leaks.

Also, the oil pump gasket could be leaking too. You have to pull the harmonic balancer off to change the front seal. The oil pump is right there, so just take the bolts out, and change the rubber gasket.

millball

How high up on the timing cover do you find oil.??

This might just be a front main seal leak, or it might be an oil pump O ring leak.

Oil from several places ultimately ends up at the bottom of the oil pump that your pics show.

snippits

It could possibly be coming from the front rubber half moon seal on the valve cover. I have seen them make a mess. Should be an easy to spot leak.

The other spots for potential oil leak up top would be between the top of the timing cover and cylinder head, or the timing cover gasket/s could be leaking too.

nomad26

Well I have only seen it at the bottom. just like in the picture . I am going to keep an eye on it .

nomad26

thanks for the reply this is a good tip. So replace front seal and Oil pump gasket . And leave the timing chain as is. Any other tips ?

snippits

Just pull the oil pump off, and while it is uninstalled remove the old seal, install the new Type-T seal with multi purpose grease on the lip seal, install the rubber O-ring gasket into the groove. Make sure the O-ring gasket does not move when you install the pump. There is one oil pump bolt that has to be coated with a sealer.

The crankshaft pulley bolt can be a mofo to get loose. My cordless 1/2 drive would not break it loose, and neither could I break it loose with a big breaker bar. Disabled the ignition and fuel injection, used a big breaker bar, and got it to rest on the frame. Two clicks of the starter, and it came right off. Mine is manual transmission, so I put it in 5th gear, chocked the wheels, and set the e-brake.

I had to buy a puller to get the crank pulley off. Don't thread the puller bolts in too far, or you will hit the dust shield, and bend it. If you do bend it, it can be straightened out because I had to do it!

http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake.../58oilpump.pdf

nomad26

what's the tip for an automatic on the crankshaft pulley bolt ? I have air tools 1/2 inch air impact . Thats a really good link for the oil pump. Any other ideas let me know. I am swimming in deep water never been here before. Thanks so much

ev13wt

You need to replace your belt.

scope103

1. As millball (and others) have pointed out, gravity is not your friend. Oil leaking from anywhere works its way to the bottom; just because oil is there don't jump to the conclusion it's the main seal. Get some spray-on engine degreaser and a garden hose. Get the front of the engine clean enough to eat off of. Start it up, and look closely for your leak.

2. If you have to remove the crank bolt, you must fabricate a tool to hold the crank against the torque of your breaker bar. I'm partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ Using the "starter trick," as scary as it is, is never more than half of the job. You still have to put the bolt back in, and you have to hold the crank against the 116 ft-lbs required. Of course you'd never use an impact gun to drive a bolt in. A big-a$$ 3/4" drive might be able to hit 116 ft-lbs, but no one makes a torque limiter that high and you could scoot right on through 116 to stripping the bolt. Use a torque wrench; that's why you bought it.

nomad26

Good advice . I cleaned the engine really clean nothing coming from the top . I am going to check again today. Its leaking right on the oil pump body thats up close to the pan. Thanks for that link I will make one of those seem like it will do the job. Yes I will use a torque wrench for sure. Thanks so much for Your advice if you think of anything else let me know.

nomad26

Great advice those belts look like that from the power washer.
I will be repacking all the belts.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The right tool for the right job is always a good idea, SST to hold the inner pulley, in a pinch you have access to the torque-plate/fly-wheel thru an inspection port between the engine and transmission. Which will hold the crankshaft, a big warning here is deflecting this part can bend or crack it then you have to drop the trans or pull the engine to replace it.

nomad26

What is a SST ? I noticed the inspection hole because there was a black cover that came of that hole

snippits

SST is a Toyota special service tool.

SST is going to cost a lot of money. There are many choices for aftermarket tools that will hold the crank pulley.

I have used a pry bar on the flywheel ring gear teeth to hold it. Need a helper to do that, and it is possible to break/damage a tooth of the ring gear. Never have tried the string method down the spark plug hole, but that's the way I would do it to save myself some money from buying more tools.

scope103

Well, a couple hundred, if you go with the real-deal. If you find someone who actually bought it, they may be willing to part with it used. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/toy...e-tool.831920/ Mine did cost me just about $0.00, but I already had the angle iron.

(Note that the real SST has a more robust 4-bolt mounting to the crankshaft pulley. You DO get something for your money.)

Just keep in mind what you're risking by taking short-cuts here. Jamming the flywheel on the starter teeth (I've done it) risks breaking the flywheel or flex plate. Using a chain wrench will almost certainly mess up the crank pulley. If you try the starter method (many do), and the socket slips at the wrong moment, you'll round over the head of the crank bolt. If you reinstall the crank bolt without a holding tool, and get it "as tight as I could," you risk throwing the crank bolt through the radiator at some opportune moment down the road.

Just be wise about this.

nomad26

I used a piece of rope above the piston it was a piece of cake. My shaft has no signs of wear at all. I ordered the thinner seal. Should I go back to the OEM original seal since I don't have a grove in my shaft ?????? Or stay with the thinner seal which I already ordered ? While I am in here I am going to replace the water pump a few months ago I kept hearing this bearing noise not sure where it was coming from Andy recommendations for a good water pump

millball

The shaft is not where you'd find the grove. It'll be on the surface of the harmonic balancer.

nomad26

Most if not all the You tube videos show the grove in the Crank shaft . I don't have a grove in the shaft or inside the balancer

millball

Plain you don't understand where the sealing surface is.

The seal works against the OUTSIDE of the balancer.