What's up Yotatech? I'm back after being gone for a while. I sold my yota for parts for my Tahoe. I built my Tahoe up so much that I can't afford the gas for it now so I got another little yota for a gas saver.

Here's the story with it. The timing chain had eaten through the timing cover and the oil and coolant had become one. The guy didn't drive it far, supposedly. I pulled the motor, replaced all the gaskets and chain set and dropped it back in.

Now here is where I need some help. I have coolant leaking from where that tube comes in under the intake manifold. Can someone tell me if there's supposed to be a gasket in there? There wasn't one with my gasket kit that matched. I pookied it but it didn't work so now I have to solve this problem with the motor in

 

Oh boy........ YEP, there's a seal, but it's actually an O-RING. I have a HUGE BATTLE cataloged on this one in my build thread! lol... had to fix it twice, because after managing to MIRACULOUSLY replace the o-ring with OEM from dealer, WITHOUT REMOVING the plenum(it's a tight fit!).... I ended up cleaning the tube too much and wore away enough electrolysis that it leaked RIGHT THROUGH THE BEAD! lol... Got another pipe from the yard in good shape and pulled the plenum, slapped in the OEM Seal(NO FIPG IN THIS APPLICATION, EVER!)....and it's sealed like a champ for 8K now!

Two bolts, which I replaced with stud's from a water pump kit I had, then I was able to get that thing back on and over the studs to stay in place while I got the nuts on. Also, .... you have to remove the hold down bolt for the pipe on the rear of the head, I believe, in order to get it down enough(You have to at least loosen it)..... If you don't have arms like Giant Squash like me, you should be able to get it done without removing the plenum. Those seals stay totally sealed .........UNTIL they touch air for the first time when rebuilding... Then, .... they turn to brittle crap! lol.

PS> USE THE OEM O-RING, ...it's rounded on the edges and flat on the touching surfaces! (IIRC)... and FAR better quality than something you'll find at O'Reilly's!

 

Hey Axe try this link, could be an o-ring I hope this helps https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-pipe-237668/

 

Hey, .... you, ........MONKEY! ......... Yep, that's right, YOU, ..... you messing with me again? hahahaha. Sup dawg?

 

hahaha... I was also all over that thread, Ksti, ..... hilarious. I don't think he ever wrapped up that thread, did he...? I HATE WHEN PEOPLE DO THAT! lol.... makes me wanna sick my 'TRUNK MONKEY' on them!!!!! >>>

 

Ya! Mark that Trunk Monkey is a cousin of mine LOL! Made it big in TV. Mine steals wallets.
Good to hear from you. Id better stick to topic. Take care, be well.

 

AXEKICK,..... any news?

PS> Is that the rig you picked up in the ID pic?

 

Hi ChefYota I was just wondering why no FIPG I will be putting that pipe on my motor tomrrow I have a new pipe and the OEM O-Ring but was going to put some FIPG on it just for good luck just wondering Thanks Tom

 

Think of it like this.... ;

It's designed to work without it... That's because as you compress that o-ring, it actually expands to the sides and flattens out quite a bit, sealing that off very well. If you add FIPG, it's actually MORE likely to leak(granting you aren't trying to use an old o-ring, and even then..... yeah, not supposed to). Plus, ... the LAST thing you want running through those tiny water jackets and through the head is a piece of FIPG that hardened, broke free and then flew out of that location where you put it in there, right? Think of the Water pump... MOST ASE mechanics of Toyota's(and others) will tell you, "NEVER use sealant on that gasket"... and if you do, to only use a MICRO film, IE; Spray on stuff. Also, even if you put sealer on that o-ring, ...it's only going to be smushed to beyond rice-paper thin, and the rest, as I said before, goes....where? If you feel up in that intake manifold recess... you'll see it's a cut out, specifically made for that o-ring.

Plus, sealer causes more spacing than planned at the factory...(if you let it set 50% after going 1/4 turn, then all the way down, later, etc., like most often with sealers).... Trust me, you don't want that extra spacing or stuff flying free, etc., etc., ya know?

Just clean it up really well, Chuck, but DO NOT cause too much abrasion on the aluminum pipe, especially around where the pipe-end meets the flange... I did, and as I mentioned, mine leaked RIGHT THROUGH the bead of Copper/Aluminum hahaha.

 

Thanks chef for the info on the FIPG I am just worried my intake were the pipe goes in was a littel corroded I have tried to clean it up but I am not happy with it but will give it a shot thanks again.

 

I hear ya.... Many variables, Chuck...

I had to replace my pipe, as I mentioned... and when doing that, and inspecting the surface of my intake where that O-ring goes...AND, after having the "O-RING ONLY" thing explained to me by my newer builder(and many on here).... I figured I better be a good guy and follow instructions! lol I thought the same thing as you... And I don't think it's 'REALLY LIKELY' to leak or anything.... but I trust how they designed it... cuz it didn't leak for 25 years, until I MESSED WITH IT, ya know? lol. Also, if it DOES leak a lil after using some stuff.... Then I thought about "How in the HECK am I going to get that intake surface really clean up/in at that angle????" lol.

PS> You said, "a lil corroded"..... Mine was too! .... and then I cleaned it up to look like 'fresh metal'..... and in wiping all the electrolysis and corrosion away.... I MADE IT leak! lol.

 

Yea! sometimes that corrosion acts like an extra buffer, its a crap shoot to clean it off or not. lol Its looks good when its clean, but will it seal completely. It would bug me if I didn't clean it. would probably buy a new pipe.