Need help with 22rte starting issue.
Mar 11, 2015 | 07:31 PM
#1
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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From: East TN
Need help with 22rte starting issue.
My 4runner starts then dies after about 1-2 seconds.
I put a jumper in the connector to check the codes and got #6. Tried a short time later to start it and it fired right up and idled good. I went to close the hood for a short test drive and saw the jumper still in and it died when I pulled it. It will start with the jumper in place and run great until it gets completely warmed up. Once warm it dies after a second with or without the jumper.
I'm lost on this thing.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I put a jumper in the connector to check the codes and got #6. Tried a short time later to start it and it fired right up and idled good. I went to close the hood for a short test drive and saw the jumper still in and it died when I pulled it. It will start with the jumper in place and run great until it gets completely warmed up. Once warm it dies after a second with or without the jumper.
I'm lost on this thing.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Mar 11, 2015 | 08:17 PM
#2
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 6
From: Temecula Valley, CA
Code 6 is a loss of RPM signal to the ECU. Likely causes are igniter, igniter circuit, distributor or ECU, wiring associated with these.
It will start and run off the Igniter signals for a short period since the igniter reads the distributor, fires the coil according to the baseline settings and sends signals to the ECU but if the ECU doesn't jump in and take over within a few moments, the engine will die.
Check all the connections to / from the distributor to the igniter for corrosion, check terminals are firmly seated in the connectors. Make sure the wires aren't broken or frayed where the terminals are crimped on.
It will start and run off the Igniter signals for a short period since the igniter reads the distributor, fires the coil according to the baseline settings and sends signals to the ECU but if the ECU doesn't jump in and take over within a few moments, the engine will die.
Check all the connections to / from the distributor to the igniter for corrosion, check terminals are firmly seated in the connectors. Make sure the wires aren't broken or frayed where the terminals are crimped on.
Last edited by abecedarian; Mar 11, 2015 at 08:19 PM.
Mar 11, 2015 | 10:42 PM
#4
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Southern Oregon
Code 6 is a loss of RPM signal to the ECU. Likely causes are igniter, igniter circuit, distributor or ECU, wiring associated with these.
It will start and run off the Igniter signals for a short period since the igniter reads the distributor, fires the coil according to the baseline settings and sends signals to the ECU but if the ECU doesn't jump in and take over within a few moments, the engine will die.
Check all the connections to / from the distributor to the igniter for corrosion, check terminals are firmly seated in the connectors. Make sure the wires aren't broken or frayed where the terminals are crimped on.
It will start and run off the Igniter signals for a short period since the igniter reads the distributor, fires the coil according to the baseline settings and sends signals to the ECU but if the ECU doesn't jump in and take over within a few moments, the engine will die.
Check all the connections to / from the distributor to the igniter for corrosion, check terminals are firmly seated in the connectors. Make sure the wires aren't broken or frayed where the terminals are crimped on.
Mar 12, 2015 | 04:15 PM
#7
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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From: East TN
I quit my job 2 days ago, I wont be buying that just yet lol
As for the 4runner, I pulled the lid off the air box to check it with an ohm meter and all checked out good. Put it back together and it started up and runs and drives great for now..
This is the second time I've had these symptoms and last time it was a loose clamp between the turbo and air box. I guess I'll just see how long it lasts this time. I was lost before and definitely wont be able to figure anything out when its running good.
As for the 4runner, I pulled the lid off the air box to check it with an ohm meter and all checked out good. Put it back together and it started up and runs and drives great for now..
This is the second time I've had these symptoms and last time it was a loose clamp between the turbo and air box. I guess I'll just see how long it lasts this time. I was lost before and definitely wont be able to figure anything out when its running good.
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