ArtP

I bought blind, a stock ’94 22RE manual, single cab, for $3500, 245k miles. I trusted my son as he knew the seller to be the original owner and a woman who did not off-road or run it hard – the body backs this as it’s very straight. In hindsight it may have been a mistake and perhaps I could sell it for what I have in it, or slightly less. I’m looking for opinions of the direction I should take. I wouldn’t mind spending $2,000+ if I don’t lose too much in resale. The option of unloading it for 80% of what I have in it is important.

I was told it had a reman 40k Japanese engine put in, but I don’t necessarily trust that and have no idea when.

Problems:

The syncros in the transmission are worn and mainly affect 1st & 2nd. But with patience and double clutching /rev match I can operate it smooth. It needs a rebuild and I’m not sure what that runs.

It burns oil but does not leak. It blows white or slightly blue smoke when it starts, then again if I coast down a long downhill, when I get back on it and ignite the oil built up from what I think are leaking valve stem guides. The motor runs strong enough otherwise. It burns about a half quart per tank.

It failed California emissions, I believe from the issue stated above.

The suspension is sloppy and has too much wheel play for my tastes and needs a rebuild. But I think most stock trucks of this gen and mileage would exhibit this symptom.

Questions:

I’m highly considering a new head ($400) and paying or doing it myself with my son. However, I’m concerned all that work will be for nothing if the lower end needs work and I don’t know how to evaluate the lower end of the motor.

Would it be prudent to buy a remanufactured motor from a reputable seller on eBay or other site? I can find rebuilt motors for as low $1000 and I’m assuming another $1000 would get it installed.

Would you simply unload it and take your money elsewhere, for something similar, or newer. I bought one of the very first Tundra’s when I was married and owned a boat. Today, I’m more interested in off-road capability and light weight/nimble.

I’m mechanically inclined but do not enjoy working on vehicles. I’d rather barter or pay for large jobs, I’ll do small jobs. I have zero experience with any significant overhauls.

Thanks for looking at my first post and I’m sorry if I didn’t spend enough time searching what is very likely a common question.

millball

Folks who love these trucks, buy, upgrade, restore and use them.

If you do not, It's best to cut your losses and get out now. It's not likely that you will see any positive return on installing an engine and tranny, only to sell the truck shortly.

If you pay others to turn wrenches you have no hope of keeping even on repairs versus resale value.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Motor $2k
other issues = unknown amount of $$
fix it an you have few grand into a truck with no payment (unless you rack up credit card) an eventually you have a decent truck
but it sounds like you wanna dump it
who knows how long the past owner had it and she may have been relaying info she got from another owner
I had a truck that a title search showed about 22 people owning before I got it. Had so much mickey mouse crap done to it after driving it for 8 years I still had crap that I hadn't straightened out yet

a 94 is basically 25 years old

ArtP

Thanks for your replies. I'm willing to be in it for the long haul. The real questions is should I dump it for something better, given its issues. I waiver. Some days I want to dump it and start over, but anything I buy is gonna have issues I didn't expect. If I spend the money, then I know I have a strong truck that'll last. Perhaps my real question is what to do with the motor? Do the head or the whole thing?

When I speak of resale, the way I run my life, I try not to invest in things that are losers. At 50 I've learned a few lessons. I'm not wealthy and a serf like most of us.

scope103

Welcome to YotaTech.

But you may be in the wrong place.

You just bought a a 24 year-old vehicle, with so many problems that you can't even register it (so you can't legally drive it). If your hope is to pay someone else to chase down all the problems and in the end still make a profit, well, I don't think that is in the cards.

If you want to fix it yourself (greasy hands and all that), you're in the right place. We all love our trucks and love working on them. But once you start paying someone else, or hope to make a profit, well, that's tough.

(BTW, in California the seller is obligated to give you your money back if the vehicle doesn't pass smog. You are guaranteed to get your money "out of it," but your son may have something to say about that ....)

ArtP

I'm not looking to make money, I'm looking to not throw money down a rabbit hole.

I'm asking for opinions about what you would do. Though I don't want to rebuild the motor myself, that doesn't make me inept, I'd just rather pay for some services.

Though I'm new to this forum, I'm not new to forums. I have other interests. If you have nothing that isn't obvious, or constructive, please save your replies.

scope103

uh, you're welcome.

RJR

You want a "light, nimble offroad vehicle." Here are some options the way I see it.
- Put $4K into this one, fixing the engine, tranny, steering/suspension, and whatever other little problems you run across. You'll wind up with a $7500 truck that will work like a champ.
- Sell this one (probably lose $1K or so), and go look for a good 3rd gen 4runner. You should be able to find a clean one with 180,000 miles or so for about $7-8000. If you get a good one, it will give you years of great service.
- Sell this one and buy a used Jeep Wrangler. It will cost you more, but can't be beat for light and nimble offroad. Only problem is you'll never know if you're going to get back home on any given trip. Plus, used ones with any life left in them are ridiculously expensive.

If you like the truck and don't mind doing at least some of the work with your son, I'd keep it and fix it up. If the body/frame/interior is in good shape and not rusted out, the engine and tranny are worth fixing even if you have to pay someone to do it.

BTW, check your clutch. A clutch that doesn't release fully (cracked pedal bracket, low fluid) can mimic the symptoms of bad synchros. To check the clutch, start it in neutral, and hold the clutch fully depressed for about 10 seconds. If it still grinds going into reverse or balks at going into first, your clutch isn't fully releasing.

ArtP

Thank you Ron for your opinion!!

Let's take the option of selling it off the table. I'm likely going to keep it. I think I hurt a few ego's by suggesting I wouldn't work on it or expected to make money. I'm a little irritated with some of the responses, but that's how forums go.

Jeeps aren't trucks and I don't trust Chrysler products. I can only have so many vehicles and I need a truck. I've considered it, and thanks for that idea.

Perhaps the focus should be on what I should do with the motor? Do the whole thing or just the head?

millball

If your existing head is a genuine toyota casting and corrosion issues do not render it unrebuildable, It should not be discarded for any aftermarket head.

All I have ever seen are chinese slave labor goods and one that came into my hands did not have the proper oil dams cast into it that are necessary for cam lobe lubrication

I say have what you've got examined by a competent machinist and rebuild that if possible.

ArtP

I thought the same. I bought a Toyota for their reputation and my prior experience. The minute I start replacing parts, suddenly I have a Chinese truck. Every single part I've looked at is aftermarket from a manufacturer I'v never heard of. In my mind, the questions is, is the bullet-proof nature the engineering of the parts or the parts themselves? Probably both.

Thanks for echoing what I was thinking.

RJR

I don't think you should be irritated at the advice you got - it was all valid. It was hard to tell from your original post just what your goals were, so people gave you a broad selection of ideas, trying to be honestly helpful. This forum is pretty free of snarky sarcasm these days - most of those types have moved on to newer and more glitzy vehicles. Only us old DIY mechanics are left, who love these old trucks.

With that said, I would find a trusted mechanic who knows old Toyota engines and have them take a look. The combination of a compression test, a leakdown test, and monitoring oil pressure with a calibrated gauge will tell you a lot about the condition of the rings, bearings, and valves. Then you can go from there as to what you want/need to do. I wouldn't pull the head until I had some of those test results in hand, and they shouldn't be too expensive to get. Also, a good mechanic can tell quite a bit just by pulling the spark plugs and looking at their color, deposits, etc.

ArtP

After further consideration and the comments from members here, I'm going to sell the truck. The comments are right, I'm not willing to do all the work myself, and/or this is the wrong vehicle, needs too much. Someone else can have it.

I won't post, but i'll continue looking at the forum.

Thanks All!

Thommo Thompson

hey art, im an ausssie who rebuilds engines and old vehicles for a living.
Is 3.5k bucks about the average price for one of these pickups wiht a 22RE engine there?
So long as its within ballpark, i dont think you can go wrong with the 22RE engine.
I will tryo to respond to each of your good questions

"I was told it had a reman 40k Japanese engine put in, but I don’t necessarily trust that and have no idea when."
The best way to work this out is to have an oil pressure test and a hot dry cylinder compression test performed. This should cost next to nothing. Its a matter of taking out the spark plugs and measuring the cylinder compression, and removing the oil light switch and measuring the oil pressure at idle when hot. The test must be performed hot, with the factory recommended grade of oil or else the results are meaningless.
Any mechanic with access to the toyota 22RE manual should have the minimum specs for these tests.

"The syncros in the transmission are worn and mainly affect 1st & 2nd. But with patience and double clutching /rev match I can operate it smooth. It needs a rebuild and I’m not sure what that runs."
The first and second are always the first to go, as they take the highest difference in speed change. However, a loose clutch setup can also cause this symptom, when the clutch is not able to be fully engaged, (seperated) the high authority over the transmission by the engine can be more than the syncros can handle. Before suspecting the syncros, jack the rear end up, and put the car in 1st gear, and stick the clutch all the way to the floor, start the engine and be sure the wheels dont start rotating fast on their own. If they do, clutch grab is the issue. If not, then move on to thinking about the transmission. (they may turn a little bit, but an assistant should be able to grab them and stop them turning.
While its up there, its a good time to check the condition of the rear diff. turn the engine off, and turn the rear wheels back and forth rapidly watching how the other side reacts. If it spins the same way as the wheel ur spinning, sell the car haha. If it spins the opposite way and reacts immediately, its good. If it spins the opposite way but lags by a good 10 degrees or more, the diff is either worn from lack of oil changes or needs its lash adjusted.

"It burns oil but does not leak. It blows white or slightly blue smoke when it starts, then again if I coast down a long downhill, when I get back on it and ignite the oil built up from what I think are leaking valve stem guides. The motor runs strong enough otherwise. It burns about a half quart per tank."
ok so, coasting down a long steep hill is the worst situation for worn oil rings to make themselves seen. When decelerating or coasting down a hill, the throttle plate is closed and the PCV valve ("positive crankcase ventilation valve" designed to suck bad gasses out of the crankcase) is forced shut. This is simply poor design by engineers world over. The closing of the PCV valve combined with the fast moving action of the pistons builds up pressure in the crankcase (and also the rocker cover, but more the crankcase) and this pressure pushes oil through the rings into the combustion chamber. This isnt so much an issue and i experience it in some perfectly rebuilt 4 cylinder motors. Its just a nature of PCV systems. A litre of oil per tank is quite common. A complete misconception is that u can fix this my thickening your oil. Thicker oil gives higher oild pressure so supplies more oil to the top end including the piston skirts, so burns more. However, it is still recommended to go thicker oil when this is happening because of the risk of gasoline contamination of the oil in the crankcase from unburned fuel running down the cylinder bores in rich scenarios, like idle or deceleration. (deceleration more than anythign as there is no air to burn the fuel due to the closed throttle plate). Without the thick oil, this contamination would thin the oil to such an extent it would be below minimum specs.
Its burning a bit blue on startup from oil that gets past the oil seals, this is normal, but u may be able to rectify it quite simply by changing to a mineral oil designed for high mileage engines. These contain petroleum distillates which should help small bursts of blue oil in the morning. If its bad, it is possible to have the valve stem seals replaced without the head removed. This is done by the technician filling the cylinder with rope or insulated electrical wire and jamming the piston to top dead centre which holds the valves up. the valve springs are then removed in situ and the seals replaced.
I would be enquiring about the cost of this on head valve seal replacement on your first mechanical workshop visit.

Suspension, leave it till last.

"I’m highly considering a new head ($400) and paying or doing it myself with my son. However, I’m concerned all that work will be for nothing if the lower end needs work and I don’t know how to evaluate the lower end of the motor."
Wait until the results of a compression test are performed. It may be absolutely fine.

"Would it be prudent to buy a remanufactured motor from a reputable seller on eBay or other site? I can find rebuilt motors for as low $1000 and I’m assuming another $1000 would get it installed."
If the compression test comes back wiht one cylinder very different to the others, then yes, a replacement engine would save a lot of money, only if you could test that new engines compression figures before installing it.

"Would you simply unload it and take your money elsewhere, for something similar, or newer. I bought one of the very first Tundra’s when I was married and owned a boat. Today, I’m more interested in off-road capability and light weight/nimble."
Definitely not. You have made the investment, it honestly really is not difficult to have these motors running perfectly, especially when you have the ability to do internet based research like you are.
With help from people like myself and being guided by the experience of others, you will likely come out of this with a wealth of knowledge and will be able to actually get further ahead than most people due to the simplicity of these older EFI motors.

You are not aware of it yet, but buying an older EFI engine from toyota is one of the best things you can do if you are at all interested in vehicles.

Thommo Thompson

here are the specifications for u to take to your mechanic for the tests...
Compression test
HOT AND DRY
171 PSI maximum
142 PSI minimum
maximum variation between any cylinder 14 PSI

Oil pressure test with 10W-30 API grade SG energy - conserving 11 multigrade oil (I suggest valvoline high mileage 10-30 for you and your oil seals so do this before the test)
warmed up for 15 minutes and left at idle speed (800 rpm +- 50) - 4.3 PSI minimum
when revved to 3000 rpm - minimum 36 PSI.

Any problems here, consider the bottom end worn out.