Bill Edgar

I have a cs 144 with a Trail gear adapter. The alternator just barely fits and I think it is rubbing on the lower radiator hose outlet to the block and if I try to tension the belt it hits the steering rag joint. It barely fits the factory belt but I did get it on and it is terribly close to the radiator hose. If I put the next size up belt it hits the steering rag joint when I try to tension it up. I got it all together and this morning on my way to work it shredded the belt and overheated. Anyone have this much trouble with a GM alternator swap? When I get home tonight I am going to put the old alternator back on so I can get back and forth tho work. Any suggestions as to why it shredded the belt?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Bracket is for 12si or CS130 alternator, 6.6” hole to hole. But my bracket is an older one, at that time site clearly said it was not for CS144.

Kolton5543

Cs144 and cs130 both have the same mounting ears. They can be bolted in place of one another and work.like factory. As for your belt being eaten, if I remember correctly, the gm alts sit slightly too far back causing incorrect belt alignment. Some people have good luck with it like that. Most will grind a little material off of either the bracket or the alt to move it forward a tad.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

You might wanna google that. Sounds like you’re confusing 12si and CS130. Also check out the trailgear adaptor for gm alt; it mounts gm alt in position for proper belt alignment without trimming on alt.

Bill Edgar

I talked with trail gear last night and he said it is meant to work with a cs130. I ordered a CS130 from Autozone last night for a 1991 V3500 Diesel. I will lose 40 amps of power but it was only $60 so if it works maybe someday Ill spring for a 140 amp aftermarket version or rebuild it as a high amp version. Ill keep yall posted

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

i’ve Ran swap for years. Just put in a high output tuffstuff alt on. For alt pulley we should run 2” for smallest I found that wasn’t super spendy was 2.125” wasn’t as obvious till I went hi-amp. Are you doing 1-wire or wiring into factory system?

Bill Edgar

Can I just run the pulley that is on the alternator from the factory? My plan is to run it for a few months to work out the bugs then maybe step up to a high amp version. If it has the same 4 prong plug as the CS144 Ill run it in the factory wiring seeing as I already spliced in the 4 prong pigtail.

Kolton5543

I was definitely thinking of the cs144 and the cs130. The versions with the mounting ears 180 degrees apart for sure are the same spacing. They are interchangeable provided there is enough space around the alt to fit the 144. I know because i have done it.

Kolton5543

You should be able to run the stock pulley. Going to a.smaller pulley just helps out at idle. It should be a six groove pulley but your four groove belt will work just fine. The plug is the same between the two. Don't go one wire. They're not as efficient and you have to spin it up pretty quick for it to even start charging. Sometimes they also won't start charging again after sitting for a long times and will need to be boosted.

Bill Edgar

I know it will fit because I got it in there. But the belt would not fit because the case hit the lower radiator hose. The next size up belt would not fit because then when you tensioned it the case would hit the steering shaft rag joint.
I did manage to squeeze the smaller belt on and tension it with about a credit cards thickness off the radiator hose. Then on my way to work I shredded the belt and overheated the truck. Its not worth the risk on my daily driver to shred belts or wear holes in my coolant hoses.
So I will just try the CS 130, maybe later on I can mod it from 100 amps to 140 which is the stock CS144 rating.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Nope, CS130 and CS144 have over a .6” difference in mounting holes. Google dimensions of both. If your talking CS130D, I have no idea and don’t care as it wouldn’t fit swap without modification to bracket.

So so I ran pulley that came with auto parts store remanfactured CS130 for years without issue. It wasn’t until I upgrade to a 160amp alt that it became more of a factor. I realized this when I check voltage after installing 160amp alternator and voltage wasn’t at where it should be. Got me to thinking and researching. To some it up without going into the weeds. To have the most charge at idle and low end of RPMs I need a ratio of alt pulley to crank pulley of 1/3. Now you have to be cautious as alternators have a max rpm they can safely spin at 18,000. I never go above 6,000rpms so no problem. Our crank pulley is 6” so ideally I should run a 2” alt pulley. Only one I could find on Summit was $30 so I opt’d for 2.125” for $9. Not perfect but will serve my purpose. Really if it sound complicated it isn’t.

The pigtail ail is not the same for CS130 and CS144. You can get an adaptor or wire it in. I like having the idiot light on the dash work. Especially since water pump runs on same belt as alternator.

Bill Edgar

Whats the difference in the pigtails? Is the cs130 not a 4 prong plug?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...yABEgL8wPD_BwE

Bill Edgar

Ok thats the one I have already installed, it has 4 pins but only 3 wires. Good to go I think. This is the alternator I ordered. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1991,v3500+pickup,6.2l+v8+diesel,1061974 ,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Good deal!! I ran one from o’riellys till a couple weeks ago. Makes a big difference over stock. Don’t know that I needed the 160 amps. But nice to have.

Bill Edgar

I have had problems with my stock Toyota alternator for some time. The brake light and alt light stay on but the alternator charges fine. Every once in a while the lights go out and the alternator starts putting out 16 to 18vdc. Then after a few minutes it goes back to normal and my battery/brake lights come back on.
The guys at the auto parts store thought it might be a sticky diode in the regulator. Though they admit they have never heard of such a thing.
So I thought what the hell and replaced the alternator with a GM CS 130, and its still doing it! The multimeter shows 18vdc at the battery terminals and it pulls the motor down hard. So i cut the sense wire and it went back to normal and charges fine at 14.4 vdc.
What do you think is the problem? Should I just leave it like it is with no sense wire?

Kolton5543

Again the wire connector is identical. Weather you buy an adapter or hard wire it correctly the idiot light on the dash will still work. it is actually needed to make the alt turn on.

scope103

Toyotas have the so-called 4-wire alternators, which means the excitation voltage comes in on the IG terminal. The ALT light is connected to the L terminal; if disconnected the alternator will still work.

You may be thinking of the very old "2-wire" alternators which had the alt-light wired into the excitation lead. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...art2/#siseries

Kolton5543

Your right except were talking about GMs CS series alts. The CS alts still use the lamp. To wire them into a Toyota, the only wire that is absolutely needed is the lamp wire. The others are just good to use because there's no reason not to.