and when have I ever disrespected you with ad hominem name calling?

 

I really hate word games "abecedarian". You know exactly what I'm talking about, I hope you show a little maturity in the future. Why even post, if you're not contributing anything?

 

3.0's are tty, 22r's arent.

with 22 yrs, 183k on mine, i replaced em

 

normally i just take the grinder to the end of the bolt careful not to damage the threads couple thousands off each bolt and put em back in. i have done dozens and dozens and dozens of cars exactly like this and never had an issue.

ive been an ASE certified mechanic for 13 years. BUT if you have the money and your spending the money to do a complete rebuild. then the head bolts should be on your list of parts to buy. just makes sense.

and dont forget the rod bearings

 

For what it's worth, 22RE head bolts aren't TTY. I reused mine and have been fine now for 15k.

YMMV...

 

I still wanna know why the OP is pulling the head after 15k miles.

 

possibly for the same sort of reason i just replaced a BRAND new rebuilt inside and out motor with a yard motor damn oil was still brand new in it.


IDIOCY

 

I had to pull the head on my motor after only 8k when the cheap aftermarket plastic timing guide set shattered and caused my engine to jump time and bend all of my valves. I learned my lesson...

 

ive been wrenching for awhile and i still dont understand 0 tolerance engines

 

valve angles are often the determining factor of whether the engine is 'interference' or 'non-interference'.
valves moving near parallel to the bore often are non-interfernce while valves moving at an angle when compared to the bore centerline can cause the lip of the valve to move down into the bore farther thus making 'interference'. also, piston design, combustion chamber geometry, and other issues can make the difference.

 

right what i should have said was i dont understand why they manufacture them.

 

they manufacture them because sometimes the design criteria- horsepower, torque, compression, etc., intake, exhaust et al, combined with the physical constraints imposed by body lines, etc. require certain designs.
So the engineers build what they have to in order to make it work.

 

would seem to me the extra thousands or so needed to stop the pistons from smacking the valve's upon failure wouldnt hurt a thing.

 

it's not just machining a relief into the piston that matters.
the shape of the piston, the shape of the chamber in the head, all play a part in how the flame front moves within the combustion area, and any sharp edges cause hot spots... deep reliefs lower the compression ratio.

it sounds really simple to just say "make room for the valves", but making room for the valves has consequences.

 

ok so forget the horsepower lets say on an efficiency level how can that little bit be so important to justify the gamble of total failure over a small sometimes plastic part.

leading to hundreds of dollars in DIY repair much less having to take it too a mechanic to fix.

i just dont get it.

 

considering replacing the 22re timing chain (an interference engine) at the recommended service interval is cheaper than replacing the timing belt on a 3vze (a non-interference engine) at the recommended service interval (according to the time I would spend doing either), I fail to see your point.

 

considering improper installation of the chain on the interference engine or failure before its service recommendation (which happens) would lead to pretty well the complete destruction of the valve train and cost alot more money then the belt on the non interference engine.


i fail to recognize your failure to see my point as a competent argument.