my trucks vibrating, a lot.
#21
thanks. that's exactly what i'm going to do. I'll just do one at a time. It feels like it's mostly the driver side and my wife says she doesn't feel it that much from the passenger side so i'm gonna do the right tire first. I think i'll take the tire to work to that way I can wash it with the Hot hose and get everything off.
#22
i got a vibration, its not real bad, just anoying. and only does it when i put it into 4 wheel drive. manual hubs, and t case. i take it out of 4 wheel *with hubs still locked in, and virbration goes away, not completely just mostly.
any ideas? i know i have a leaking front seal on the T case, just no time or money to fix it just yet.
any ideas? i know i have a leaking front seal on the T case, just no time or money to fix it just yet.
#23
Greetings from Alaska. I've got an '87 4runner doing the same thing as claudebadly. Mines on the passenger side so today I tore into it. From other postings both here and brand X [ToyotaNation] :-] I payed attention to the bushing on the spindle. It was a really easy thing to check, took off the manual locking hub, removed the 12mm bolt on the end of the axle, took off the thingy that has 6 nuts,washers and those cone things. There it is, the splines on the axle [I know what some things are called] and the c-clip [book says new clip everytime]. That is where the bushing is, it's a brass/bronze looking thing and simply wiggling the axle up and down, back and forth there was a lot of play.
I then unbolted the 6 17mm nuts on the transfer case trying to wiggle out the drive axle but it was a bear so I stopped. I had it out enough to look at the inside of the bushing and there is wear, almost egg shape kinda. I don't know how to get the bushing out ie; is it threaded or removed with a punch from the inside. I'll try buying one tomorrow. There are notches in mine like a giant flat tip screwdriver would work. A 54mm spindle socket is needed and I learned from the forums here snap on has them. In Anchorage I paid $21 last week but you will need a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. 54mm is also 2 1/8".
Anybody ever remove/replace those bushings? I'm 50 yrs old and do a fair job on maintaining equipment [part of being a commercial fisherman] but dang if I've ever worked on what I've got going now. Only had this truck 5 years and 70,000 miles. With 176,000 on it, shoot it's just getting warmed up.
I then unbolted the 6 17mm nuts on the transfer case trying to wiggle out the drive axle but it was a bear so I stopped. I had it out enough to look at the inside of the bushing and there is wear, almost egg shape kinda. I don't know how to get the bushing out ie; is it threaded or removed with a punch from the inside. I'll try buying one tomorrow. There are notches in mine like a giant flat tip screwdriver would work. A 54mm spindle socket is needed and I learned from the forums here snap on has them. In Anchorage I paid $21 last week but you will need a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. 54mm is also 2 1/8".
Anybody ever remove/replace those bushings? I'm 50 yrs old and do a fair job on maintaining equipment [part of being a commercial fisherman] but dang if I've ever worked on what I've got going now. Only had this truck 5 years and 70,000 miles. With 176,000 on it, shoot it's just getting warmed up.
#24
Grease is cheap love
Hi again, Yesterday I found bushings at the dealer in Anchorage. They are $47 each but I don't have the money to buy them for both sides [4 total]. They said there is suppose to be grease around the CV axle so with a little macgyverism I bought a 18 gauge horse needle and a 35cc syringe. I'm lucky as a friend has a heated garage [-9 yesterday]. Packing the syringe with room temp. grease I found the needle just fits between the bushing and the CV axle. I injected around 3 oz of high temp grease by the outer bushing. It's a pain getting to the inner bushing so I didn't work on that one. A road test of a few miles taught me a great deal of my vibration was gone with the grease. The parts guy at the dealer told me Snap On used to have a tool that screwed on to the spindle by the nut and then you could pump grease from the outer to the inner. Am looking for that tool but one can be made by welding a spindle nut to a 54mm/2 1/8"socket then welding the square hole for the ratchet closed and tapping threads for a grease Zerk. I'll need another socket like my last post but the grease seems to be the answer as long as the spindle bushings are not wore down to much. These older 4runners have had the grease beat out of them and grease is cheap love. Just an idea for you guys, I'll update this later if your interested. p.s. I got the 18 gauge needle at a farm supply store here,don't know if you have anything like that there. Good luck to you.
Last edited by fishyme; Dec 30, 2008 at 10:51 AM.
#26
check this out:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ing+lubricator
from one 50 yr old to another!
lee
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ing+lubricator
from one 50 yr old to another!
lee
#27
Hey lotalucas, 25 miles south, the gulch. Am working on this grease tool and will have pics to help visualize. It's really simple, the needle and syringe is a real Gilligan thing but it helped put me on a better track. Does anybody have simple help for me to load pics from my camera phone onto a post. I can get them into my PC and view but after that, DUH.
#29
You just went mudding havent washed it got a vibration. It more than likley mud in the wheel as stated. It does not take much. We get it alot here with this Georgia red clay. Our hunting club used to be super muddy and we would get mud in the backs of our wheels al the time. Sometimes it would feel like it would toss you out of the truck till we got them washed out. Clean it up bet you will be fine.
#30
leebee, Man that's GREAT. Doing it my way was going to cost me another spindle socket, welding, sealant and look even more Gilligan than some of my other creations. I've got the things I need right here at home to make your style tool. Thanks leebee
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