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Old 09-27-2008, 05:29 AM
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Ok well got the little things taken care of yesterday.
The bondo is done.
I got a drivers side fender (It's black but better than nothing) put it on to replace the rusted one I had.
Installed the drivers side headlight.
Replaced a blown reverse bulb .
I scored 3 wiper blades from the junkyard yesterday as well total cost to me for the fender, headlight and 3 wiper blades $20...
I also found a 4 runner there at the junkyard with 4.56 gears I am working on snagging those since i haven't been able to find a automatic with 4.88's yet.
Also found a new additon to the junkyard a 1991 FJ80 I was checking out the front axle on it....

I have to get it inspected so I threw the stock tires back on it.
With a decent fender the rust fixed and lights all working it will be off to try and get the state inspection done today.

Things to do yet:
1. order the 2" body-lift end of the month
2. possibly TG winch plate and find a decent used winch.

Last edited by 934rnr; 09-27-2008 at 05:40 AM.
Old 09-27-2008, 07:40 AM
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Hmm well got off the phone with the junkyard. They'll take $250 for the 4.56 diff's front and rear if I pull em...
Pretty good deal for a v6 3rd and a IFS front diff?

Last edited by 934rnr; 09-27-2008 at 07:41 AM.
Old 09-30-2008, 06:56 AM
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Daylight pics.




35's are a very close fit.... lol
Old 09-30-2008, 07:11 AM
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That's awesome man - I wish I could find one like that around here in that good of shape.

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Old 09-30-2008, 07:46 AM
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It's in good shape for being in the rust belt. It surprised me. I don't think they drove it alot in the winter.
Plus it only has 136,000 miles on it.
Old 09-30-2008, 09:43 AM
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Lol I decided to do more work today. I ended up having to cut the peice of metal at the end of the chain holding the spare tire on there.
It was rust welded and wouldn't budge even being sprayed down with break free. I started bending the jack tool trying to lower it so.
The sawzall made quick work of taking that sucker off...

Last edited by 934rnr; 09-30-2008 at 09:45 AM.
Old 09-30-2008, 11:41 AM
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nice progress. i cant believe those 35s fit in the wells. I still think you should get a Body lift though. That and some paint and she'll be pretty nice.
Old 09-30-2008, 12:26 PM
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yup it's amazing the next feat will be fooling the inspection station with my bondo repair I did on the exhaust had a few small pin holes so I slapped some bondo on it to get it by... lol shhhhhh
Old 10-01-2008, 02:32 PM
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Well the 2" body-lift is on order.... Just ordered it from 4wheelparts They had free shipping...
Old 10-04-2008, 11:27 AM
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Just curious how rare is it to have a rear seat delete for a 4 runner? It was sitting in the back of the 4 runner when I bought it.
At first I was like WTF is this? I thought it was a repair panel or something then found bolts on the bottom of it.
Basically you remove your rear seat and bolt this in place of it. Makes the back of it like a truck bed.





I guess mine was a utility 4 runner version. It didn't come with a back seat. One was added at a later date.

I found a old post on offroad.com about it :http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-su...rear-seat.html
Anyways haven't seen many of them so I guess it is rare.

Had to go back to school and have a history lesson on the first gen runners. "The first-generation 4Runner had two doors and a removable hard top in the form of a fiberglass shell over the rear cargo area. It was available in two models. The first was little more than a pickup truck with a covered rear cargo area. Its emphasis was on utility. With seats in the front only, the rear of the vehicle was intended to be used for cargo (or camping equipment, bicycles, etc.)"

More here : http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist1.html

Some good info if anyone wants it....
Old 10-06-2008, 06:54 AM
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Well went out wheeling last night. Only breakage was the tire.



The tire had a log wedge between the bead and the inner lip of the rim.
I pulled most of it out and aired up.
It made it home was a little low when we parked it but now it's flat this morning.
I'll probably have a bunch of crap in there I'll have to pop the bead.

My g/f is hooked she drove last night and loves wheeling now.
She's cooking breakfast this morning.

We went out with my buddy John too we had a blast.
Came back muddy and tired lol.

Last edited by 934rnr; 10-14-2008 at 01:37 PM.
Old 10-07-2008, 04:23 PM
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Well got the body-lift today.
I got all the blocks installed in about a hour. Now all I have left is to tighten everything up do the bumper relocation and a couple other things.
Old 10-07-2008, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 934rnr
Well got the body-lift today.
I got all the blocks installed in about a hour. Now all I have left is to tighten everything up do the bumper relocation and a couple other things.
Old 10-08-2008, 07:54 AM
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2" bodylift pics....





Old 10-08-2008, 08:14 AM
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It's soon time to start ditching those crap bumpers...

Anyways so the next plan is either throwing some 4.56's in or a winch and a winch plate.

Need some opinions....
Old 10-08-2008, 09:32 AM
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Agreed, either need to ditch the bumpers, or build some brackets.

Is that an auto or stick? 22re or 3vze? I guess with a 3vze and a manual you could get away with 4.56s. But to get close to your original engine speed to road speed ratio, it'd be better to go with 4.88s or 5.29.

Can plug in the numbers yourself and see what works the best for you:

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
Old 10-08-2008, 09:44 AM
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not to bad man looks good but id say dump the bumpers and id go with the winch its will save you before the gears would
Old 10-08-2008, 12:18 PM
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Ya a winch might be a good idea. a winch is gonna set me back $299.
It's a 22re in it. I was thinking eh 4.56's are better than nothing since it has 4.10's plus I can get both diffs for $250.
I had a 3vze in my last 93 4rnr and 4.56's it did ok with 33's.
Tough choice.....

Last edited by 934rnr; 10-08-2008 at 12:29 PM.
Old 10-08-2008, 12:25 PM
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if you plan on running the 35's much, i think you should get 5.29's. then it wouldn't be terrible with 31's if you put them on in the winter. Granted the truck wouldn't really want to go more than 60 with those kind gears and 31's, but with 35's it should be close i bet.
Old 10-08-2008, 12:30 PM
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Where can you get new gears for front and rear for $250?


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