my new red snappah
#21
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Location: Good 'ole Georgia
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Let me know how those 35's are on stock gearing, Assuming you have the 22re, and 4:10's. I'm "in the market" for some 33's in the not-so-near future, but would love to have 35's on it. Or at least 34's.
Seriously, let me know about the tires.
Great score for $600, too bad it's IFS!
Seriously, let me know about the tires.
Great score for $600, too bad it's IFS!
#24
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Thread Starter
I actually threw in a 4.10 diff in my old 82 truck once with 35's. On a flat surface it was fine but on hills it sucked not alot of power.
Well g/f is whining to me this morning she wants the old tires back on it so she can drive it.
I guess they will come off for now until I get at least a rear spring lift and a body-lift.
Well g/f is whining to me this morning she wants the old tires back on it so she can drive it.
I guess they will come off for now until I get at least a rear spring lift and a body-lift.
#28
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Doing some brainstorming through the night and i think the leaf springs I am gonna use are f-150's in the rear and jeep YJ springs in the front.
Opinions welcome.....
Opinions welcome.....
#30
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Well got done doing the lift shackles.
What a PITA. The bushings were frozen in there to the shackles.
I had to use a ball joint separator to separate the upper bushing and shackle from the frame mounts.
Thank god I had a set of poly bushings from my previous truck that I saved.
It sits a little racked not too much though.
Looks a lot better I must say.. It's temporary until I get lift springs
What a PITA. The bushings were frozen in there to the shackles.
I had to use a ball joint separator to separate the upper bushing and shackle from the frame mounts.
Thank god I had a set of poly bushings from my previous truck that I saved.
It sits a little racked not too much though.
Looks a lot better I must say.. It's temporary until I get lift springs
#34
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Thread Starter
nope. Advance auto specials $15.99.... They are so called universal shackles.
However a little note you have to use a metal bushing insert inside the toyota bushing.
The bolts have a lot of slop in them if you don't which isn't good.
They are basically a band aid until I get springs..
The next project fixing the dreaded rust.... the fun begins....
However a little note you have to use a metal bushing insert inside the toyota bushing.
The bolts have a lot of slop in them if you don't which isn't good.
They are basically a band aid until I get springs..
The next project fixing the dreaded rust.... the fun begins....
Last edited by 934rnr; 09-14-2008 at 07:51 AM.
#35
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Thread Starter
Well back on 35's.....
Sorry the pics are kinda dark but tomorrow I may get some new ones.
It rubs in the front when turned.
It looks like some trimming will happen definately a 2" body-lift going in.
The lift shackles helped alot.
I have fix some little things on it now.
The front headlight died and I need to replace one of the front rotors.
Funny I have already had neighbours come by and comment on how it looks with 35's under it... lol
Sorry the pics are kinda dark but tomorrow I may get some new ones.
It rubs in the front when turned.
It looks like some trimming will happen definately a 2" body-lift going in.
The lift shackles helped alot.
I have fix some little things on it now.
The front headlight died and I need to replace one of the front rotors.
Funny I have already had neighbours come by and comment on how it looks with 35's under it... lol
Last edited by 934rnr; 09-16-2008 at 03:56 PM.
#36
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Thread Starter
Made some progress today used the sawzall and trimmed the front fenders on the lower sides.
Now I can make turns with it and drive it somewhat on the street.
The fenders are gonna get hacked anyways rust you know trim the cancer out to make clearance.
Bump and turns I might be in trouble. All I have to do is finish the trimming in the front and the back and install the 2" body-lift.
It actually isn't too bad with 35's and 4.11's I drove it down the street on small hills so far so good.
Now I can make turns with it and drive it somewhat on the street.
The fenders are gonna get hacked anyways rust you know trim the cancer out to make clearance.
Bump and turns I might be in trouble. All I have to do is finish the trimming in the front and the back and install the 2" body-lift.
It actually isn't too bad with 35's and 4.11's I drove it down the street on small hills so far so good.
Last edited by 934rnr; 09-18-2008 at 09:56 AM.
#37
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Well I can drive it on the street now
I just have to watch bump and turns I did some creative hammering on the lower pinch welds at the bottom of the cab seam. I kind of folded them over on themselves some and painted everything up. It rubs on bumps. Now I need to get a body-lift.
I am trying to decide between a 1" or a 2" BL?
I think I should go with a 2" but I like a low CG so debabting the 1" one.
I am probably gonna go with ball joint spacers in the front in the meantime till a SFA goes on it.
I just have to watch bump and turns I did some creative hammering on the lower pinch welds at the bottom of the cab seam. I kind of folded them over on themselves some and painted everything up. It rubs on bumps. Now I need to get a body-lift.
I am trying to decide between a 1" or a 2" BL?
I think I should go with a 2" but I like a low CG so debabting the 1" one.
I am probably gonna go with ball joint spacers in the front in the meantime till a SFA goes on it.
#38
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Shoreline, Wa
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Well I can drive it on the street now
I just have to watch bump and turns I did some creative hammering on the lower pinch welds at the bottom of the cab seam. I kind of folded them over on themselves some and painted everything up. It rubs on bumps. Now I need to get a body-lift.
I am trying to decide between a 1" or a 2" BL?
I think I should go with a 2" but I like a low CG so debabting the 1" one.
I am probably gonna go with ball joint spacers in the front in the meantime till a SFA goes on it.
I just have to watch bump and turns I did some creative hammering on the lower pinch welds at the bottom of the cab seam. I kind of folded them over on themselves some and painted everything up. It rubs on bumps. Now I need to get a body-lift.
I am trying to decide between a 1" or a 2" BL?
I think I should go with a 2" but I like a low CG so debabting the 1" one.
I am probably gonna go with ball joint spacers in the front in the meantime till a SFA goes on it.
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well ya I plan on driving it during the winter.
I have a set of BFG 31x10.50 AT's laying around I got for free. Either that or throw the bridgestone 235x75 AT's back on it.
Just to run during the winter.
For now I'll be rust proofing and rust removing until then.
I have a set of BFG 31x10.50 AT's laying around I got for free. Either that or throw the bridgestone 235x75 AT's back on it.
Just to run during the winter.
For now I'll be rust proofing and rust removing until then.