My flex is weak
Dec 11, 2008 | 11:49 AM
#5
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Joined: Oct 2007
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You're actually getting a lot of flex out of the front. I'll bet the the PO added the rear lift without lengthening the shocks. What's funninest is that in the last picture, the front seems to be flexing rather well on flat and level ground. 
Last edited by Matt16; Dec 11, 2008 at 11:53 AM.
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Dec 11, 2008 | 12:06 PM
#9
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Tabernacle, NJ
Yeah that's not bad flex for a bracket lift IFS. Definitely too short shocks in the rear. Get some longer shocks! http://beaniam.com/cars/truck/paint/8.jpg
Dec 11, 2008 | 01:47 PM
#12
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Lake City, Fl
Like others have said, really not that bad of flex from IFS man!
The rear though, yeah you deffinately need some longer shocks so you can get your droop on
And I notice you still have the sway-bar connected; remove that and you may find you'll free up a little more flex, or at least let the front flex a little easier.
Also, you might want to consider and idler-arm brace; look at the angle on that tie-rod going over to your right front under droop... that angle plus hard turning is what demolishes idler-arms... just food for thought
oh and in case you didn't know, you have no passenger-side bump stop
The rear though, yeah you deffinately need some longer shocks so you can get your droop on
And I notice you still have the sway-bar connected; remove that and you may find you'll free up a little more flex, or at least let the front flex a little easier.
Also, you might want to consider and idler-arm brace; look at the angle on that tie-rod going over to your right front under droop... that angle plus hard turning is what demolishes idler-arms... just food for thought
oh and in case you didn't know, you have no passenger-side bump stop
Dec 11, 2008 | 02:38 PM
#13
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Salem, OR
You guys don't think these shocks are long enough?
I do have like 4" blocks in the rear. And also, I'm not sure why I'm missing a bumpstop...i guess thats what you get when you buy used
I do have like 4" blocks in the rear. And also, I'm not sure why I'm missing a bumpstop...i guess thats what you get when you buy used
Dec 11, 2008 | 02:41 PM
#14
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Longmont, CO
Hard to tell from that picture. Easy way to find out though. Jack up the truck (by the frame or bumper) and measure how far the axle droops. Then unhook the shock and do it again.
My question is WTH is that other thing extending forward from the spring? Some kind of anti-wrap device?
My question is WTH is that other thing extending forward from the spring? Some kind of anti-wrap device?
Dec 11, 2008 | 03:08 PM
#18
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,248
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From: Lake City, Fl
Think about the shock issue this way...
First, find out if those are stock length shocks to begin with; those Rancho's have the part # stamped on them, they always do; write the number down, then call up the parts store, Advance Auto Parts for instance, and ask them to look up shocks for your truck by year and everything, tell them you want Rancho shocks, with 0" lift and 0" drop; that'll be the Rancho for stock ride height. Ask them for the part #, and see if they match.
If it's the same # that you have on your truck, well then you have stock length shocks.
If it's a different #, tell him what number you have and ask him if he shows it in his list of shock for the truck; they just might list it and then you can go by the description he has on his computer to see how much longer they are. But most part houses like that will sell only 2"-3" longer shocks straight from the computer; anything higher you'll have to go to a Rancho catalogue, or guess and fab
The issue with stock lenght shocks after blocks in you application is that the shocks mount under the axel. 4" blocks just effectively removed 4" from your shocks extention range, this is why they are limiting your flex; their reaching their extention range prematurly. Longer shock will obviously give you a longer extention range and will let that tire hung up in the air droop down, so you'll get a lot better articulation.
and that "little shock" yall are talking about above the leaf spring, that's what most reffer to as a "kicker-shock". It just heps reduce axel wrap when you run big blocks, like say, 3" and up... Although they do help to cut down the wrap a little, 3"+ blocks still fatigue the springs...
First, find out if those are stock length shocks to begin with; those Rancho's have the part # stamped on them, they always do; write the number down, then call up the parts store, Advance Auto Parts for instance, and ask them to look up shocks for your truck by year and everything, tell them you want Rancho shocks, with 0" lift and 0" drop; that'll be the Rancho for stock ride height. Ask them for the part #, and see if they match.
If it's the same # that you have on your truck, well then you have stock length shocks.
If it's a different #, tell him what number you have and ask him if he shows it in his list of shock for the truck; they just might list it and then you can go by the description he has on his computer to see how much longer they are. But most part houses like that will sell only 2"-3" longer shocks straight from the computer; anything higher you'll have to go to a Rancho catalogue, or guess and fab
The issue with stock lenght shocks after blocks in you application is that the shocks mount under the axel. 4" blocks just effectively removed 4" from your shocks extention range, this is why they are limiting your flex; their reaching their extention range prematurly. Longer shock will obviously give you a longer extention range and will let that tire hung up in the air droop down, so you'll get a lot better articulation.
and that "little shock" yall are talking about above the leaf spring, that's what most reffer to as a "kicker-shock". It just heps reduce axel wrap when you run big blocks, like say, 3" and up... Although they do help to cut down the wrap a little, 3"+ blocks still fatigue the springs...
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Dec 11, 2008 at 03:09 PM.
