So yeah, I thought my engine was klunking, which eventually turned into a squealing like two peices of rusty metal grinding on each other. Today when I washed my truck I saw this (see pic below) So now I am sure the sounds were the CV.
I dont know exactly when this happened the squealing started about 3 or 4 weeks ago and the klunking was there about 3 months ago...Did I just wreck something permanently? The truck still drives fine minus the annoying squealing.

Now is this something a noob wrencher (and I use the term loosley) can fix in his driveway, or should I just take it into a shop. I'm leaning towards the shop in case I #*(%ed something up, unless someone tells me it's not a big deal and it's easy to fix.

 

Its easy to replace a cv. Do you have the Toyota FSM? Go download that, its free on here.

 

Wow quick reply, yeah I do have the fsm, unfortunately I dont have a Toyota dealership in this town, and I think I got rid of my grease gun when I moved...But I will check out the fsm right now. Thanks.

What to you think about the squealing tho? Should it just stop if I replace the boot?

 

Dont replace the boot replace the whole cv

 

Umm ya...Maybe I shouldent do it myself eh?

 

Lets hope this squeeling stops when you replace the WHOLE cv. lol

Go read the fsm and search on here to get an idea on how to replace it, ive seen some threads on here, ill do some lookin for ya.

 

Actually, this might be more then you can handle by yourself, do you know anyone who has experience and tools? Might want to go that route...

 

Come over to alberta and ill do it for you aha.

Its not to hard tho.. i have pictures in one thread when i did both of mine.

 

Dont think she'll make it back to my hometown.

Looks like I will be calling the shop tomorow =[

 

I did a boot job on my T100 yesterday. I am experienced, have the tools, the factory service manual and the boot kit. It took me about 5 hours. Now, my truck had alot of rust. Rust causes everything to take much longer. Still, it is a job that will take some time and effort.

My outer CV was open to the elements for some time. There was rust and road debris in the CV. It took me time to clean it up. It probably should be replaced but this truck is a beater and I don't want to spend much money on it.

Get some thick surgical gloves. This is a very messy job.

jrohland

 

He could find a non-blown CV for fairly cheap...
i think if you buy online they're like 60 bucks?

 

I'd go buy a used one or if one can't be found, a remanufactured one from Lordco. I did a writeup a while back on replacing a CV, look that one up. The trick is to fully compress the suspension at the corner you're working on.

 

Thanks for the help everyone.
Matt I found your write up, but I think mine is an outer CV (closest to the wheel) At any rate I guess I will make my decision to do it my self or not after I hear the shops quote.
My remaining boots are showing cracks too...The thought of doing them all does not sound like a fun time at all.

 

O you can do what I did, and convert to manual hubs and unlock them that way it's not spinning, have my new CV's but haven't done them yet, doing new shocks, BJ spacers, CV's, and new Balljoints this weekend

If you ahve manual hubs already then unlock them and you'll be straight as they don't spin when hubs are unlocked

 

Personally I would not rebuild it just replace it. I did mine in an afternoon, it was the drivers side with ADD. Not too bad.

Loosed the 6 bolts holding the CV to the axle, loosed tire, jack it up and remove tire.
Remove the lower shock bolt, remove the dust cover (if you have ADD) remove the 6 bolts holding the hub on and the one bolt in the middle. Tap the hub so the Cone washers come out (don't lose them you'll need them).
Remove the 6 bolts holding the shaft in slide the shaft back in towards the truck and pull the wheel towards you and down.

Here is one that has the manual hubs that I referenced.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/

 

So from what I understand I should still be able to drive the truck as long as I dont put it in 4wd?
The shop here wants to charge me like $400 to replace the cv...I got a good mechanic in Kelowna (like 9 hours away) who I know will be half that price, I am just worried about driving that distance with the boot like that. I gotta go back there in a few weeks anyway.

I am really unsure about doing it my self, but it is still a consideration....Sure sucks being broke.

 

Head on down to Autozone or Kragens and pick up the whole shaft for about $70. It's not hard to change out. Make sure you repack your wheel bearing while you have it apart. The cone washers will probably be the worst part.

 

Do you have ADD or Manual hubs? I would not drive it if you have ADD that far.

All in all it's not all that bad to do on your own. The only help I had was a Haynes, and this site. The link from Spearo really helped out. I have not read Matt16's yet. I had 1 small issues that held me up and it was the dust cover on the hub, didn't look as if it came out so I was missing 1 screw. Other than that I think I would have done this within 3-3.5 hours, instead it took almost 5 (I broke 3 bolts and had to go shopping too).

 

I have ADD...So I guess driving is out.
Lumpy, thanks for your write up link, you make it look easy.
Guess I have to try and do it myself. I'm sure I will break some bolts too, I have never had to deal with broken bolts so can someone tell me what I need to get em out.
Going to call the parts store right now, hope they got a cv in stock.
What kind of grease do I need. And those cone washers sound like a bitch, I dont have a torch or whatever that thing was mentioned to beat it out.
Is there anything else I should be getting?

BTW my only jacks are one of those scissor crank ones and a small canister pump one (the real name eludes me right now)





You Americans have cheap ass parts. A new cv will run me $190, remanned $130 + $175 core charge =[

 

Well I actually didn't break them but rounded the heads on the ones that hold the lower ball joint.

These are nice to get them off if need be.
The cone really were not all that bad, just tap the hub to knock them loose, use a mallet or a block of wood and they'll come shooting out. For me the hardest thing was knowing to remove the dust cover off the hub, didn't look like it came out. There is 1 bolt under that you need to remove.

Get some jack stands while at the parts store. You'll be rocking it a bit getting everything apart. I have seen cars come down before and I learned the hard way about not using stands.

All purpose bearing grease should be fine. Ask the guys at the counter...the heavy stinky kind.