motor questions 3.0
09-30-2006, 07:16 AM
#21
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a good point, and something you would always want to think about in these situations. if we look at the mr2 though, we see that the 5sfe in it uses the same waterpump as the 5sfe in the camry, and the mr2 pumps through about 8' of line(mid engine to front radiator and back, about 15-16' total). so most likely it would be ok. probably slight pressure drop, but not to bad. i dont think it will make to much of a difference on weight balance, probably only moving >60lbs to the back, but definitely would help protect the rad, most desert racing truck run that configuration i think. i would think you would have to fab up some kinda shroud for air flow management, i guess pulling from the roof of the cab, exhausting out the open bed?
The shroud is the key with e-fans IMHO.
10-01-2006, 02:55 PM
#22
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so I have gotten to the bolts on the front timing chain pulleys. :pat:
other then that toyotas seem very nice to work on. not too many bad bolt placements or anything. my next question is which header to go with. it seems the downey ceramic coated is the way to go. I can't belive I am about to spend more on headers then I did on the truck. but no reason not to do them while everything is disconects and labled. at least means I can just cut out the crossover pipe right.
other then that toyotas seem very nice to work on. not too many bad bolt placements or anything. my next question is which header to go with. it seems the downey ceramic coated is the way to go. I can't belive I am about to spend more on headers then I did on the truck. but no reason not to do them while everything is disconects and labled. at least means I can just cut out the crossover pipe right.
10-04-2006, 11:43 AM
#23
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so i do have coolant in my oil, dose that mean i need to do the lower half, pistons, rings ect. I think i need to send the heads for new valves from engine builder as one has a crack in it. I wiil also be getting the new headers and the enjectors rebuilt this is already costing the price of a new motor. oh well,
can anyone point me in the direction of a thread about pulling the pistions in a 3.0? thanks
can anyone point me in the direction of a thread about pulling the pistions in a 3.0? thanks
10-04-2006, 11:56 AM
#24
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the coolant is known to break down the bearing material.... i would do the bottom end while your in there.
my jasper cost me like 5K.... my 4runner rebuild (with headers) cost me like $1000 so i dont know how your saying it costing the price of a new motor...
check out the online service manual... go page by page its writen for a basic highschoool education greese monkey to follow...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
my jasper cost me like 5K.... my 4runner rebuild (with headers) cost me like $1000 so i dont know how your saying it costing the price of a new motor...
check out the online service manual... go page by page its writen for a basic highschoool education greese monkey to follow...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
Last edited by snap-on; 10-04-2006 at 12:02 PM.
10-04-2006, 12:25 PM
#25
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yea your right new motor might be a streach but I started with a $400 truck, 180 head gasket and timing belt, 80 fro injector rebuild, 500ish for headers,500ish for heads and valves, and now bottom end kit.. not that I am complaing the work it fun and the yota is an easy truck to work on and it will be a sick ride when i am done. I heard it was possible to do the bottom end with the motor still in the truck.. anyone tried,, i am out out of room to pull the motor
10-04-2006, 07:10 PM
#26
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this seems to be the problem
/Users/johnjacobs/Pictures/jfj iPhoto Library/2006/10/04/PICT0002.JPG
not sure if the pic was posted right. looks like I will need some valves. I think i will have to do this as cheep as possible. I don't think I want do all the work that this motor now needs,,, I think that i will get new valves put in and replace head gasket. I have to drain my oil,antifreeze out. and see if I can get it running again for another 25,000 miles or so. even if I can get a year or so out of it and swap it for a rebult or low mileage motor. does anyone know of away to clean the antifreeze out of the oil? Just alot of oilchages?
/Users/johnjacobs/Pictures/jfj iPhoto Library/2006/10/04/PICT0002.JPG
not sure if the pic was posted right. looks like I will need some valves. I think i will have to do this as cheep as possible. I don't think I want do all the work that this motor now needs,,, I think that i will get new valves put in and replace head gasket. I have to drain my oil,antifreeze out. and see if I can get it running again for another 25,000 miles or so. even if I can get a year or so out of it and swap it for a rebult or low mileage motor. does anyone know of away to clean the antifreeze out of the oil? Just alot of oilchages?
11-13-2006, 07:26 PM
#28
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alright before I begin I know I have more stuff to try but it was time to shower and step away from the garage for the night...
I just put my 3.0 back together after replacing the head gasket and tried to start it up. It cranked and started to fire but would not run.
I have only downey headers on it at this point so it has no o2 sensor or any back presure for that matter. It got my neighbor's attention he stuck his head in my garage and said it sounded like a F'ing NASCAR.
I think my timing must be off, I kept everything at top dead center but i guess it is possible that it still off just enough. - I will take the distributor cap of to see if it looks right then start to play with the timing light
also not having a 02 sensor or back presure will make it run poor as well, right.
yea I know these are not questions,, anyone have sugestions for me to try in the am? I would love to get the plates for my new truck since it is starting to snow around here.
thanks for any advice
I just put my 3.0 back together after replacing the head gasket and tried to start it up. It cranked and started to fire but would not run.
I have only downey headers on it at this point so it has no o2 sensor or any back presure for that matter. It got my neighbor's attention he stuck his head in my garage and said it sounded like a F'ing NASCAR.
I think my timing must be off, I kept everything at top dead center but i guess it is possible that it still off just enough. - I will take the distributor cap of to see if it looks right then start to play with the timing light
also not having a 02 sensor or back presure will make it run poor as well, right.
yea I know these are not questions,, anyone have sugestions for me to try in the am? I would love to get the plates for my new truck since it is starting to snow around here.
thanks for any advice
11-14-2006, 05:30 AM
#29
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I ran mine with no exhaust system past the manifolds and cross-over and it idled fine, just noisy. Where are you located? I have a good 3VZ with 116,000 miles.
11-14-2006, 05:57 AM
#30
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TD, you are polishing the turd.
As the not so proud owner a of a highly polished turd I can say that it's not money well spent.
Stop pouring money down the rat hole and bite the bullet on a swap. You'll be light years ahead in the end and spend less $ to get there than you will rebuilding the 3.slow.
As the not so proud owner a of a highly polished turd I can say that it's not money well spent.
Stop pouring money down the rat hole and bite the bullet on a swap. You'll be light years ahead in the end and spend less $ to get there than you will rebuilding the 3.slow.
11-14-2006, 09:36 AM
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yea i know your right about the tird polishing,, this is were I am, if I can get 20-30,000 I will be happy. I may have to keep with the 3.0 if I want to race it in stock classes and for now all I want is to get it running for the snow
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