Travel Dodge

hello
I finally get to start on replacing a head gasket in a 1990 SR5 with a 3.0 with about 260,000 on the motor. I got it for $400 becuse of the head gasket was blown but other wise I have gotten it into fairly good shape.

1st question is do you guys think I need to replace pistons, rings, rods, ect. when I do the head gasket? I drove it home and it drove fairly well but smokey. I would like not to put to much money into it right away since it will be just a beater for me.
I have the engine builder HG set, a knock sensor wire, and the little scotch brite pads for my drill,, anything else I should do?
I will over time want to make this a preformace driving (off road, dirt,snow) truck. I will use it as Rally course vehical as well as hope to make it someday into a Rally America(rallytruck)/ Score off road racer(class 7s) down the line. If I go that route I will expect a install a new motor so if I only get another 25000-50000 out of this motor I will be more then happy.
number two, I do want to start making this thing preform, not just power (motor) but in the conners, I plan to move the battery to the rear of the truck to make it less front heavy. I would also like to move the radiator to rear with an electric fan. Anyone done these mods?
great site by the way I found alot of good info on this forum thanks

doc76239

Uhm not sure how to tell you this, but power and performance and the 3.0 don't go in the same sentance. Ditch the 3.0 as soon as possible and swap in a toyota v8 or at least a 3.4 v6 that way you can supercharge it.

ChickenLover

There is a special service campaign for head gasket replacement (free) for your year and engine. Call up Toyota, have your vin handy, and ask them about the V06 campaign.

Elton

Welcome to YotaTech.... i would call and see if its had the recall done yet

snap-on

if you had coolant in the oil i would do the bottom end. if not, then HG should be all you need

mt_goat

I have seen a guy that has done that but I don't get it, what is the point? Any how here it is, have fun: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ad.php?t=46361

I second the 3.4 swap with supercharger or turbo idea if you want performance later.

BC Rider

Chickenlover please tell me more - I wonder if my dealer told me some lies - maybe things are different in the USA, but when my 1990 went after about 12 years I ended up paying myself for the replacement. Apparently up in Canada Toyota only extended warranty for my VIN for 10 years......or my dealer lied....er was mistaken I mean.

Thanks for any info you can provide. Maybe I can get back to Toyota and get some $ back?

aviator

Hey BC the thing to do is call Toyota head office and register yourself as the proud new owner of the vehicle they will tell you what if any recalls/service bulletins are outstanding on the vehicle and also when the ones that were done were done. Toyota only does VO6 once as I understand it so if it was done already then it would be your cost to do again if needed. On the otherhand I've never heard of Toyota putting a time limit on the recall if it was never done then they should pay to have it done as per the recall.

Travel Dodge

thanks, yea I know that the "3 slow" is not super powerful. but my current "rally trainer" is a 2.2 subaru and I normaly just drive it to the floor. I am a big beliver of BHP to weight is the most important figure in any ride so any extra weight will be tossed. I live in colorado so the AC is on it way out if anyone wants it, I plan to make it breath better with a better filter and a intake silencer removal, exhust some day will be very free flowing, not sure if the neighbors would hate me if I straight pipe it. The back half is not in the best of shape so if I like driving it I will go with a cage and fiberglass. In the end if I do make it a "racer" I will expect to need a new engine most likely the 3.4 mabye with forced induction of some sort. since it drove home so well, broke the speed limit and everything I think I will rip it apart for just the headgasket now and see what happens. if worse comes to worse and the compression sucks I will go from there. I just know how I am if I start the full rebuild the project I will just keep dumping money into it. I will keep you guys up dated thanks again

Travel Dodge

thanks, yea I know that the "3 slow" is not super powerful. but my current "rally trainer" is a 2.2 subaru and I normaly just drive it to the floor. I am a big beliver of BHP to weight is the most important figure in any ride so any extra weight will be tossed. I live in colorado so the AC is on it way out if anyone wants it, I plan to make it breath better with a better filter and a intake silencer removal, exhust some day will be very free flowing, not sure if the neighbors would hate me if I straight pipe it. The back half is not in the best of shape so if I like driving it I will go with a cage and fiberglass. In the end if I do make it a "racer" I will expect to need a new engine most likely the 3.4 mabye with forced induction of some sort. since it drove home so well, broke the speed limit and everything I think I will rip it apart for just the headgasket now and see what happens. if worse comes to worse and the compression sucks I will go from there. I just know how I am if I start the full rebuild the project I will just keep dumping money into it. I will keep you guys up dated thanks again

Travel Dodge

mt. goat I checked the info on the radatior relocation, that was just what I was looking for. the reason is two fold why I would consider moving it to the back. 1st the pickups have all there weight in the front and the rad is as far forward as you can go. If you can move all that metal and water to the back closer to the rear axel the truck will be more equaly balanced. The 2nd is rally and desert guys some times seem to run into stuff if you put the rad in the bed it is safer and then you have a big space between the front bumper and the rest of the engine. I was talking the other day with 2 prorally service guys and he said never to use any weilded tabs to hold a radiator in place but to fab a kinda c clamp that will give way on impact.

mt_goat

I'd be worried about the water pump having to push the coolant through an extra 15-20 feet of plumbing.

Edge 3.0

I have my battery mounted in back and I am actually in the process of figuring out a way to mount my radiator and some auxillary cooling systems back there plus a fresh air breathing system. Weight in the back definately helps, especailly when you accidentally get airborne . And I have moded 3.0 as well. It was bored out a little when it was rebuilt and it currently has a cam, headers, K&N FIPK, and a after market throttle body; I personally love it, but that was years ago before I even could fathom to drop in a 3.4 for or anything else. Anyway, good luck with what ever you do.

Bumpin' Yota

Travel Dodge -you have pm about the AC system!!
Edge 3.0 - you have pm about the cams

Travel Dodge

edge 3.0 sound like you are building something close to what I have in mind, do you have and pics of our ride. battery mount ect.

hey bumping yota I just started tearing into my yota. do you need all the ac or just parts? I saw that you messaged me but not sure how to veiw it.

I got an electric fan today at the junkyard for $30 I will post some pics sometime seems to be the perfect size for the radiator anyone know how these things are wired, just a switch or a temp guage any info would be great

Bumpin' Yota

i need the compressor, compressor clutch, and evaporator.

mt_goat

This is suppost to be a great controller, I'm just trying the FK35 now. http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm

Travel Dodge

what are the AC parts worth to you. I assume you will need the shipping cost. sorry I buy more stuff then I sell over the net but would rather not have the go to waste, or take what little garage space that I got left. ANy links to instructions on how to remove the ac parts? it is pressurized right? I have not looked at the manual for this yet. thanks again guys, this is a great site

Travel Dodge

got the ac parts out today.

motoracer47

a good point, and something you would always want to think about in these situations. if we look at the mr2 though, we see that the 5sfe in it uses the same waterpump as the 5sfe in the camry, and the mr2 pumps through about 8' of line(mid engine to front radiator and back, about 15-16' total). so most likely it would be ok. probably slight pressure drop, but not to bad. i dont think it will make to much of a difference on weight balance, probably only moving >60lbs to the back, but definitely would help protect the rad, most desert racing truck run that configuration i think. i would think you would have to fab up some kinda shroud for air flow management, i guess pulling from the roof of the cab, exhausting out the open bed?